I just finished getting my brake master cylinder apart on my 1971
Series 2 using the grease gun approach to force the piston assembly
out. Now I’m try to take apart the slave cylinder from the brake
remote servo and slave cylnder assembly and the bearing, seal,
pushrod are stuck. I want to use the same grease gun approach but
am not sure which of the 4 ports to block off and which one to
force grease into. See photo: I think I would force grease into
the third port from the left and block off the port on the far
right. Does anyone know for sure? Any reason not to use this
method on the slave cylinder?
In reply to a message from RJJM sent Thu 25 Sep 2008:
Ray
It has been a few years since I rebuilt mine, but I believe there
is a stop pin under the inlet fitting (center one), When removed a
little air pressure should blow the seals loose. If yours is
original as mine was it will need to be resleeved.
Glenn Wior
70E–
The original message included these comments:
I just finished getting my brake master cylinder apart on my 1971
Series 2 using the grease gun approach to force the piston assembly
out. Now I’m try to take apart the slave cylinder from the brake
remote servo and slave cylnder assembly and the bearing, seal,
pushrod are stuck. I want to use the same grease gun approach but
–
melloyello
Lake Elsinore California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
You’re right and unless the pin is out he’ll never be able to
disassemble it.
Bob
889076
Plymouth, Mi.On Sep 25, 2008, at 1:04 PM, melloyello wrote:
In reply to a message from RJJM sent Thu 25 Sep 2008:
Ray
It has been a few years since I rebuilt mine, but I believe there
is a stop pin under the inlet fitting (center one), When removed a
little air pressure should blow the seals loose. If yours is
original as mine was it will need to be resleeved.
Glenn Wior
70E
The original message included these comments:
I just finished getting my brake master cylinder apart on my 1971
Series 2 using the grease gun approach to force the piston assembly
out. Now I’m try to take apart the slave cylinder from the brake
remote servo and slave cylnder assembly and the bearing, seal,
pushrod are stuck. I want to use the same grease gun approach but
–
melloyello
Lake Elsinore California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from melloyello sent Thu 25 Sep 2008:
Glenn and Bob,
Thanks for the input. In reading a bit further ahead then I am in
the service manual I see a reference to what you guys are
saying…’‘remove inlet connection and extract piston stop pin’’
However, according to the manual at this stage the bearing, seal
and push rod shold be removeable. What you seem to be saying is
that I should remove the stop pin before applying any pressure
otherwise the piston(s) are not going to come out. Correct?
Ray–
The original message included these comments:
It has been a few years since I rebuilt mine, but I believe there
is a stop pin under the inlet fitting (center one), When removed a
little air pressure should blow the seals loose. If yours is
original as mine was it will need to be resleeved.
I just finished getting my brake master cylinder apart on my 1971
Series 2 using the grease gun approach to force the piston assembly
out. Now I’m try to take apart the slave cylinder from the brake
remote servo and slave cylnder assembly and the bearing, seal,
pushrod are stuck. I want to use the same grease gun approach but
Right. Tap the cylinder on a piece of hard wood and the pin should
come out. If the piston assembly is not seized it will help if you
push the pushrod slightly in to relieve end pressure on the pin. While
you’ve got it apart carefully inspect the pushrod as it must be
perfect or brake fluid can bypass at this point. This whole assembly
seems rather shaky to me as you have a seal with vacuum on one side
and pressure on the other and it’s expected not to leak. You’ll find
that the later rebuild kits are modified from the original in this area.
Bob
889076
Plymouth, Mi.On Sep 25, 2008, at 10:32 PM, RJJM wrote:
In reply to a message from melloyello sent Thu 25 Sep 2008:
Glenn and Bob,
Thanks for the input. In reading a bit further ahead then I am in
the service manual I see a reference to what you guys are
saying…’‘remove inlet connection and extract piston stop pin’’
However, according to the manual at this stage the bearing, seal
and push rod shold be removeable. What you seem to be saying is
that I should remove the stop pin before applying any pressure
otherwise the piston(s) are not going to come out. Correct?
It has been a few years since I rebuilt mine, but I believe there
is a stop pin under the inlet fitting (center one), When removed a
little air pressure should blow the seals loose. If yours is
original as mine was it will need to be resleeved.
I just finished getting my brake master cylinder apart on my 1971
Series 2 using the grease gun approach to force the piston assembly
out. Now I’m try to take apart the slave cylinder from the brake
remote servo and slave cylnder assembly and the bearing, seal,
pushrod are stuck. I want to use the same grease gun approach but