Is it possible to change the rope seal with the crankshaft in place?
if not I will put in a after market.I heard or read somewhere a
chev 427 will work can anyone confirm this.
thanks john–
john sinclair
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In reply to a message from 71 4.2 sent Mon 9 Aug 2010:
You cannot install an upgraded neoprene seal on an
unmachined crank of your vintage: replacing the rope seal
with crank in situ is a bit dicey, unless you’re experienced
at doing rope seals.–
The original message included these comments:
Is it possible to change the rope seal with the crankshaft in place?
if not I will put in a after market.I heard or read somewhere a
chev 427 will work can anyone confirm this.
–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from 71 4.2 sent Mon 9 Aug 2010:
I have replaced the rope seal on a 1973 V12 E Type engine
using the sneaky Pete method. Details were posted on Terry’s
website.While I was able to stay the flow of oil quite
considerably, I am quite clear in my mind that the best way
to do this is with the crankshaft out of the engine.Only
then can the groove for the rope seal be properly packed
into place without it being stretched. I would be really
grateful for a step by step method for doing this, but to
date I have not seen one.I had hoped that Mr Maury might
deign to wrote it up for his Georgia Jag epistles, but not
so far sadly.–
The original message included these comments:
Is it possible to change the rope seal with the crankshaft in place?
if not I will put in a after market.I heard or read somewhere a
chev 427 will work can anyone confirm this.
thanks john
john sinclair
–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
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In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Mon 9 Aug 2010:
IMO, the ‘sneaky Pete’’ method is a hit and miss type of
situation: I’ve done a fair few over the years and I’d say
that my experience mirrors yours: it may slow down the
leak, but I’ve never yet seen it stop a leak, and certainly
not as well as doing it with either the crank or a fitting tool.
I gave up offering any warranty on doing it.–
The original message included these comments:
I have replaced the rope seal on a 1973 V12 E Type engine
using the sneaky Pete method. Details were posted on Terry’s
website.While I was able to stay the flow of oil quite
considerably, I am quite clear in my mind that the best way
to do this is with the crankshaft out of the engine.Only
–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from 71 4.2 sent Mon 9 Aug 2010:
I’ve just replaced my first rope rear seal (67 4.2). I hope
everything is going to be fine. However I read about the
sizing tool after I put the crank in. Can one of the pro’s
give me a rundown on how the sizing tool works? I’m guessing
so one can confirm a clearance between the rope seal and the
crank?
Joe Labella
67 e type–
eljunko
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In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Mon 9 Aug 2010:
I will try to do better. I do write articles when I think they are
needed and I will take this as it is a needed article. Thanks–
The original message included these comments:
into place without it being stretched. I would be really
grateful for a step by step method for doing this, but to
date I have not seen one.I had hoped that Mr Maury might
deign to wrote it up for his Georgia Jag epistles, but not
so far sadly.
–
Dick Maury , Rebuild Dept.- Coventry West, JCNA President
Lithonia, GA, United States
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In reply to a message from ovlov sent Mon 9 Aug 2010:
It sets the rope seal in the seal half retainers. You can do
the same thing with the crank, if it’s still to the point
the crank can be removed. Kinda hard to explain it here, so
contact me offlist and I’ll try to write up a…write-up. In
fact, there’s zero clearance twixt the rope seal and the
reverse screws in the crank.
I never had a sizing tool and never had any issues with the
crank method, except once, when the seal itself was defective.–
The original message included these comments:
give me a rundown on how the sizing tool works? I’m guessing
so one can confirm a clearance between the rope seal and the
–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from 71 4.2 sent Mon 9 Aug 2010:
All this talk about rope seals(aka packings) is great but I want to
go back to the initial post which I do not understand. Is the
author suggesting that if an aftermarket rope seal will not work he
is going to lump his E-Type with a Chevy 427? What am I missing as
this sounds a bit severe…–
The original message included these comments:
Is it possible to change the rope seal with the crankshaft in place?
if not I will put in a after market.I heard or read somewhere a
chev 427 will work can anyone confirm this.
–
Jim Horvath, '67 OTS, 1E13653
San Jose/CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Jim Horvath sent Mon 9 Aug 2010:
If I have to remove the crankshaft to replace the rope seal then
i’m going to upgrade to an aftermarket rear seal.I have read or
heard a 427 rear seal works good but you still have to get crank
machined.Wondering if anyone can confirm this.
thanks john–
The original message included these comments:
All this talk about rope seals(aka packings) is great but I want to
go back to the initial post which I do not understand. Is the
author suggesting that if an aftermarket rope seal will not work he
is going to lump his E-Type with a Chevy 427? What am I missing as
this sounds a bit severe…
–
john sinclair
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In reply to a message from 71 4.2 sent Mon 9 Aug 2010:
I replaced mine with the engine out of the car and the block
inverted on an engine stand. IIRC, I had to remove the flywheel to
get at the fasteners holding the upper seal carrier in place. I
think I had to loosen the main caps and move the crank a bit to get
the upper mount out.
The seal can be properly seated without the sizing tool. I soaked
the seal in a baggie of motor oil for a week or so and then put
each half of the seal in it’s mount (carefully chucked up in a
vise) and rolled it in using my largest deep socket. I then bolted
both halves together and did the same thing until the seal was
flush with the ends of each half of the mount. Properly installed
each piece should fit with no trimming necessary.–
The original message included these comments:
Is it possible to change the rope seal with the crankshaft in place?
–
John Walker, 1969 E-type 2+2 - ‘Lola’
La Porte, Tex, United States
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In reply to a message from John Walker sent Tue 10 Aug 2010:
You can do it that way, too: I don’t tend to push that one unless
the person I’m trying to esplain it can see my hands waving…;)–
The original message included these comments:
The seal can be properly seated without the sizing tool. I soaked
the seal in a baggie of motor oil for a week or so and then put
each half of the seal in it’s mount (carefully chucked up in a
vise) and rolled it in using my largest deep socket. I then bolted
both halves together and did the same thing until the seal was
flush with the ends of each half of the mount. Properly installed
each piece should fit with no trimming necessary.
–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from 71 4.2 sent Tue 10 Aug 2010:
Oh, thanks.
Can’t help you with the 427 packing compatibiity but I would be
very cautious and would not make the substitution unless I had all
the specs of both seals including engineering drawings. Any engine
out job is not something you want to repeat.
A year ago I had my engine out and comtemplated replacing the rear
seal because there was a small leak. Not having the stomach for
pulling the crank, instead I made sure I got the rear sump seal in
right as well as the pan gasket. It is now dry.
Good luck,
Jim–
The original message included these comments:
In reply to a message from Jim Horvath sent Mon 9 Aug 2010:
If I have to remove the crankshaft to replace the rope seal then
i’m going to upgrade to an aftermarket rear seal.I have read or
heard a 427 rear seal works good but you still have to get crank
machined.Wondering if anyone can confirm this.
–
Jim Horvath, '67 OTS, 1E13653
San Jose/CA, United States
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