In reply to a message from Clive Wilkinson sent Mon 22 Jun 2009:
Gotcha: I didn’t say it very well! I should have been WAY
more specific, given this crowd, in saying that if an RV
were glued (Dick Van Grusen’ll have my butt, now!) the
designer would have made DAMN sure it was good stuff.
My apologies!–
The original message included these comments:
Sorry Wiggler, you’re fluffing again.
–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from saabguy sent Mon 22 Jun 2009:
Hi Lester,
I may qualify as the ‘‘spot weld’’ king. A few years ago I finished
up a complete restoration of a 64.5 mustank cvt. Drilling out and
removing the cowl panel alone, there must have been 75 to 100 spot
welds. I exhausted many spot weld cutters purchased from eastwood.
Now, I’m a huge fan of eastwood, so, this is not to be taken as
a ‘‘slam’’ at their products. I found the best spot weld cutter on
the market was purchased from Snap-On. The key is in the steel.
their kit was almost $100 but, was the last kit I purhased. ALos,
theis kit had cutters reanging from 1/4 to 1/2’'. It is extremely
well made. But, then we expect it from them. You might want to look
for a plasma cutter, as well. Once you us one, nothing else will
compare. Not to mention in runs on 110-120V and very low air
pressure.
I too, have the jag to do, but, I’m trying to muster the energy.
Good luck on you project!–
The original message included these comments:
Hi all, this is a continuation of the ‘‘R’’ word topic, I just
wanted to get many involved here… short story is that I
want/need to replace the rocker panel cap by the battery. I
have never done this and wanted to know about any hints,
secrets, gotchas, or experience from those who have done it.
In particular there is a lip folded over one part of this
panel and I don’t know if it’s welded there or glued there
–
KenAsh, Severna Park, MD, 1E77559 '67 2+2, '04 XJR,
Severna Park, MD, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from KenAsh sent Mon 22 Jun 2009:
There are aluminum boats that are epoxied together and last
for years and years in a marine environment, travelling at
high speeds and slamming into waves, bearing far more
stress than any E Type will ever experience unless it hits
something and rolls over. Do it right, and it’ll last
forever.–
1969 4.2 Series 2 E Type, 1973 Series I XJ6 (rescue car)
Brentwood Bay, B.C., Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
I presume that your panel is spot welded to the outer sill (unlike
mine), so it’s going to be tougher for you to remove it,
particularly if your outer sill is in good shape, and you don’t
want to re-paint it. I guess if you’re really careful you could cut
out the bulk of the panel and then access the spot welds that
attach the panel to the outer sill and drill them out. Not
impossible…
Good luck,
-David–
davidxk '56 XK-140 OTS, '69 XKE OTS , '98 XK8
Monterey CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from davidxk sent Tue 23 Jun 2009:
Thanks David,
same panel although my rust is considerably less that what you
have. Unless there are some hidden gotchas I think that this
will be a straightforward repair. I’m not worried about the
paint on the outer panel so I will learn the fine art of plug
welding itty bitty holes!
Lester–
The original message included these comments:
Here are the pictures I promised of my sill end panel: http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1245810830
I presume that your panel is spot welded to the outer sill (unlike
mine), so it’s going to be tougher for you to remove it,
particularly if your outer sill is in good shape, and you don’t
want to re-paint it. I guess if you’re really careful you could cut
out the bulk of the panel and then access the spot welds that
attach the panel to the outer sill and drill them out. Not
impossible…
Good luck,
-David
–
'66 XKE FHC Running but NOT stopping!
Louisiana, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from saabguy sent Thu 25 Jun 2009:
IMO, the secret to plug welding is to not make the holes too
small. In several places, I saw a recommendation of 1/4’’ holes.
Trying this, I found that my puddle would form in the hole before I
got good penetration into the smooth metal on the other side of the
hole. Some of my welds would then pop loose under stress.
I switched to 3/8’’ holes and had no further problems.
Also, of course, you want to clamp the two pieces of metal together
as tightly as possible in the vicinity of the hole (weld), and both
pieces of metal should be scrupulously clean. The quality of the
welds is somewhat sensitive to your voltage and wire speed
controls, but this just requires some experimentation on scrap
metal.
I seemed to have good luck with C25 gas.–
The original message included these comments:
paint on the outer panel so I will learn the fine art of plug
welding itty bitty holes!
–
Glen - 69 E-type OTS, 2000 XK8, 59 MGA
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from saabguy sent Thu 25 Jun 2009:
Lester:
Woah! Are you lucky or what? I don’t think that I’ve ever
seen that much rot-away on a sill close panel without
serious deterioration of the surrounding metal. Your metal
looks perfect, including the lower seam-how did that happen?
And, lucky you, it looks like the tin worm didn’t penetrate
the frame rails area at all, but I do see a bit of rust
stain, which means that some moisture got up in the joint.
Since you have the rails off I would inspect them closely. I
have not removed mine but if I did I would consider flushing
them with a rust neutralizer as a ‘‘just in case’’ measure.
As to your question about no welds, I seem to recall, but
could be wrong, that the close panel only had seam sealer on
it where it contacted the outer sill. In any case, I would
consider an adhesive before welding if welds were used.
Bob–
'69 2+2-Big Red, '69 OTS-Priscilla, '99 XK8-Othello
Mantua NJ, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Robert Moore sent Sun 28 Jun 2009:
The sill should be spot welded to the end panel in order to
complete the torsional box and provide stiffness to the shell.
The photos are someone else’s. And they show that someone
has previously replaced the sill by installing a new one
right over the top of the cut back original one.
People were doing bodges like that in the 70s, when E Types
were just cheap old cars but one would think it is worth
doing it properly these days, considering the value of the
cars now.–
Clive, '62 Coupe 860320
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
