The “Green Bible” contains are excellent instructions on setting and
checking the ride height of the front suspension.
There is nothing on adjusting the rear suspension height. I guess that it
is not really adjustable, as it is set by the springs on the coil over
shocks. And the stock shocks do not have a threaded set-up so that the
spring tension can be changed, so, ergo, there is go way to change the rear
ride height? But are there some dimensions to check to verify that the
springs haven’t sagged to verify that the rear end is riding at the correct
height?
There is a setting link for “mid laden position” on the rear
suspension, measure where that is supposed to go when
your car is mid-laden (do exactly as specified in the owners
manual). You can then tell whether it’s high or low. There are
measures for rim to fender, but the bodywork varies, this is
a better way.
You can raise rear ride height by installing spacers under the
springs, several year models of the car had spacers from the
factory – yours did, for example IIRC. If they are missing, the car
may be a little low. You can buy shorter springs to lower the car.
Not easy, but doable.
Watch out for “new rear springs”. I bought
two different versions from different sources – not uprated,
just new original spec springs. Both put the rear too high.
Jerry
Jerry Mouton '64 E Type FHC “Laissez les bons temps rouler!”----- Original Message -----
From: “Tom Heinrich” tom@liftinc.com
To: “Listers” e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 8:12 AM
Subject: [E-Type] Ride Height
The “Green Bible” contains are excellent instructions on setting and
checking the ride height of the front suspension.
There is nothing on adjusting the rear suspension height. I guess that it
is not really adjustable, as it is set by the springs on the coil over
shocks. And the stock shocks do not have a threaded set-up so that the
spring tension can be changed, so, ergo, there is go way to change the
rear
ride height? But are there some dimensions to check to verify that the
springs haven’t sagged to verify that the rear end is riding at the
correct
height?
Measured from the front pivot point of the lower suspension, on average how
much will the front end drop once the bonnet and coolent is added to the
car? Anyone know?
Measured from the front pivot point of the lower suspension, on average how
much will the front end drop once the bonnet and coolent is added to the
car? Anyone know?
In reply to a message from tom felts sent Sun 2 Jan 2005:
Tom,
With everything else in the car like the engine I would have
thought the coolant weight would be negligible, also the bonnet
because of its size the weight is spread over a large area area, I
doubt you would notice it drop at all.
I set my ride height with links as the manual states, I did it with
the engine out and after fitting the engine it seems just right.
Adding the bonnet last week seemed to make no noticeable difference.
Apart that is from making it look fantastic.
I think you might be looking for a problem that’s not really there.
Harold, if you were to add sandbags, where would you place them to
get the correct weight distribution of the bonnet.
Not knocking your idea but just thinking aloud.
Dave–
The original message included these comments:
Measured from the front pivot point of the lower suspension, on average how
much will the front end drop once the bonnet and coolent is added to the
car? Anyone know?
TIA
tom
–
'61 OTS, I’ll do work for parts
Pershore, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from tom felts sent Sun 2 Jan 2005:
Tom,
With everything else in the car like the engine I would have
thought the coolant weight would be negligible, also the bonnet
because of its size the weight is spread over a large area area, I
doubt you would notice it drop at all.
I set my ride height with links as the manual states, I did it with
the engine out and after fitting the engine it seems just right.
Adding the bonnet last week seemed to make no noticeable difference.
Apart that is from making it look fantastic.
I think you might be looking for a problem that’s not really there.
Harold, if you were to add sandbags, where would you place them to
get the correct weight distribution of the bonnet.
Not knocking your idea but just thinking aloud.
Dave
The original message included these comments:
Measured from the front pivot point of the lower suspension, on average
how
much will the front end drop once the bonnet and coolent is added to the
car? Anyone know?
TIA
tom
–
'61 OTS, I’ll do work for parts
Pershore, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
I don’t think it matters much, but about 2/3rds centered on the very front,
the rest centered just in front of the windscreen would be my guess…
Cheers and happy new year to all!
–Harold
Harold, if you were to add sandbags, where would you place them to
get the correct weight distribution of the bonnet.
Not knocking your idea but just thinking aloud.
In reply to a message from Harold Robertson sent Sun 2 Jan 2005:
Actually, if you think about it, the weight is carried almost
entirely at the hinge way out front. At least on my SI, the
counter-springs almost fully counter-act the weight of the bonnet,
to the point it can be raised with a single finger, applying only a
few pounds of force at the back edge. This means when closed,
there is essentially no static weight being carried by the rear
edge laying on the cowl. The only other support is the hinges, so
they must carry essentially the full static weight. The same
should be true for SII and SIII with the gas struts.–
The original message included these comments:
Hi Dave!
I don’t think it matters much, but about 2/3rds centered on the very front,
the rest centered just in front of the windscreen would be my guess…
Cheers and happy new year to all!
–Harold
–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Harold Robertson sent Sun 2 Jan 2005:
Actually, if you think about it, the weight is carried almost
entirely at the hinge way out front. At least on my SI, the
counter-springs almost fully counter-act the weight of the bonnet,
to the point it can be raised with a single finger, applying only a
few pounds of force at the back edge. This means when closed,
there is essentially no static weight being carried by the rear
edge laying on the cowl. The only other support is the hinges, so
they must carry essentially the full static weight. The same
should be true for SII and SIII with the gas struts.
The original message included these comments:
Hi Dave!
I don’t think it matters much, but about 2/3rds centered on the very front,
the rest centered just in front of the windscreen would be my guess…
Cheers and happy new year to all!
–Harold
It may make sense but it’s not true. Whether the bonnet has springs or not
doesn’t affect the mass distribution of the bonnet or its effect on the mass
distribution of the car. If it did, you could fine-tune the weight
distribution of the car simply by putting different springs on the bonnet.
What if you had springs that were so strong that the latches were keeping
the bonnet from springing open. Would that make the rear end lighter by
lifting up the cowl? That kind of physics only happens in cartoons.
Visualize a switchblade knife that is perfectly balanced; that is, the
handle has the same mass as the blade. When the knife is open, the center
of mass of the knife would be at the pivot point between the blade and the
handle. Now if you close the knife against the spring action and lock it
closed, the center of mass moves to the center of the handle. The spring
has no effect on the balance of the knife. Open or closed, you could have a
strong spring, no spring, or even weld the pivot and it would have no effect
on the mass distribution of the knife. Or in your case, the car.
Mike Eck
New Jersey, USA www.jaguarclock.com
'51 XK120 OTS, '62 3.8 MK2 MOD, '72 SIII E-Type 2+2
makes sense to me…
–Harold
In reply to a message from Harold Robertson sent Sun 2 Jan 2005:
Actually, if you think about it, the weight is carried almost
entirely at the hinge way out front. At least on my SI, the
counter-springs almost fully counter-act the weight of the bonnet,
to the point it can be raised with a single finger, applying only a
few pounds of force at the back edge. This means when closed,
there is essentially no static weight being carried by the rear
edge laying on the cowl. The only other support is the hinges, so
they must carry essentially the full static weight. The same
should be true for SII and SIII with the gas struts.
The original message included these comments:
Hi Dave!
I don’t think it matters much, but about 2/3rds centered on the very
front,
the rest centered just in front of the windscreen would be my guess…
Cheers and happy new year to all!
–Harold
In reply to a message from Mike Eck sent Sun 2 Jan 2005:
hi I dont know if anyone ever measured that. why? when you set up
the torsion bars, and you with the factory manuel it tells for sure
how many inches beetwin the top schock mount bolt and the bottom
shock mnt bolt. you follow that, and when you put everithing on the
car the ride height will be perfect. Thats my experience cheers
Pajtas–
jaguarjoe 54 XK 120 rdstr 1961 MKIX 94 XJ6
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Mike Eck sent Sun 2 Jan 2005:
Mike,
You are, of course, correct. I was sitting here all day
yesterday, and late into the night, with no heat (we celebrated New
Years Eve by running out of propane, and don’t have a functional
fireplace), so I think my brain was already frozen by the time I
wrote that.
However, given the size, construction, and location of the
bonnet, I’d bet it’s center of mass is pretty darned close to the
front axle. Given it’s weight (about 200# or so?) I’d expect it to
drop the front of the car on the order of 1/4-1/2’’ when fitted,
given that spring rates in cars are typically in the 250#/in range.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Sun 2 Jan 2005:
It has been a looong time since I took statics, but if I remember
correctly the free body diagram would look like a downward force
and a torque acting at the pivot point. A resolution of the forces
would give the resultant vertical and horizontal components of
force. The downward force would be the mass in lb-force or kg
acting downward at the pivot point.
Don’t forget to add in the weight of shims which, if my car is any
indication, is significant.
I don’t recall a significant change in the ride height when I put
the bonnet on, but once I finish my car, one of the things I plan
to revisit is setting the torsion bars once everything is in its
proper place.
Any other mechanical or civil engineers our there feel free to
correct my analysis above, like I said I’m rusty and my career path
took me away from a lot of that stuff I learned in school.
Jim–
'67 OTS
San Jose/CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Afternoon Gentlemen. I have just finished installing the
engine, and torsion bars in my 70 2+2 and have lowered the
car onto its wheels for the first time in over 40 years.
The torsion bars were a struggle but they are in, and now
I’m just looking for a little reassurance. The car does not
have the bonnet, rad, interior, windshield etc installed and
as it sits now the ride height is four inches high (13’’).
I know the weight will bring it down as will driving it.
But four inches…please reassure me.
Joe–
Joe Hine, 1970 E Type 2+2
Fredericton, N.B., Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
That’s pretty heavy stuff you have missing…wouldn’t be a bit surprised!On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 4:33 PM, rv4flyer rv4flyer@gmail.com wrote:
Afternoon Gentlemen. I have just finished installing the
engine, and torsion bars in my 70 2+2 and have lowered the
car onto its wheels for the first time in over 40 years.
The torsion bars were a struggle but they are in, and now
I’m just looking for a little reassurance. The car does not
have the bonnet, rad, interior, windshield etc installed and
as it sits now the ride height is four inches high (13’’).
I know the weight will bring it down as will driving it.
But four inches…please reassure me.
Joe
Joe Hine, 1970 E Type 2+2
Fredericton, N.B., Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from rv4flyer sent Wed 25 Apr 2012:
It will not, see the thread below and check the archives.
Lots to read about on this, but my advice is to follow the
manual, Haynes or Bentley but you will still need to do some
iterations.–
Jim Horvath, '67 OTS, 1E13653
San Jose/CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from rv4flyer sent Wed 25 Apr 2012:
Always put never-sieze on T bar splines, Joe…
No bonnet weight and bushing compliance (lack there of) is holding
it up. I think you can loosen the A arm pivot shaft nuts to let it
settle. But the act of driving it will allow everything to render
itself to its natural position.
Most of us get to reset the T-bars until we get it ‘‘just’’ right.
After 3-4 times you can beat the flat rate time! My setting bar has
3 different holes for one side if that makes you feel any better.
If the ride height turns out to be right, you should buy a Lottery
ticket cuz it was your lucky day!
Dave–
1969 BRG OTS
Skaneateles, NY, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
I assumed you have set the suspension using the required links?On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 4:52 PM, Jim Horvath sandynjim2@earthlink.net wrote:
In reply to a message from rv4flyer sent Wed 25 Apr 2012:
It will not, see the thread below and check the archives.
Lots to read about on this, but my advice is to follow the
manual, Haynes or Bentley but you will still need to do some
iterations.
Jim Horvath, '67 OTS, 1E13653
San Jose/CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from rv4flyer sent Wed 25 Apr 2012:
You didn’t say if you have rolled the car at all. Just moving it
back and forth will settle it quite a bit. But if you set the bars
according to the workshop manual, wait until you have everything on
before you start re-adjusting them. Surprising how following the
instructions actually works!–
The original message included these comments:
Afternoon Gentlemen. I have just finished installing the
engine, and torsion bars in my 70 2+2 and have lowered the
car onto its wheels for the first time in over 40 years.
I know the weight will bring it down as will driving it.
But four inches…please reassure me.
–
Jack Terrick 66 FHC
Greensburg, PA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Jack T. sent Wed 25 Apr 2012:
Thanks for all the reply’s guys, I neglected to to say that
I did use the manual instructions, and that I have a cool
cats adjustable reaction plate, so I can adjust it down a
couple of steps yet.
I’ll let you know how it turns out.
Joe–
Joe Hine, 1970 E Type 2+2
Fredericton, N.B., Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–