[E-Type] S2 off road since 1980 now back but couple of issues

Hello there
Just purchased 1969 S2 coupe. It has not been on the road since
1980!!! 24,000 miles since new. It has just passed roadworthy
inspection and seems to be running very nicely. I have replaced
engine oil, coolant and brake fluid (what a lovely job reaching
rear calliper bleed screws) but inevitably there are plenty of
things to attend to with a car that has been off the road for so
long. A couple that I can’t find in the forum archives are below
and I’d really appreciate any suggestions:

  1. Ignition light is on constantly when engine running. The car has
    a new voltage regulator. The battery indicator suggests the battery
    is OK and that the alternator is charging. I say this because with
    ignition on and headlights on the needle settles just into
    the’normal zone’’ and when the engine is running the needle sits in
    the normal zone just inside the ‘‘on-charge’’ section (about 14
    volts). I thought the ignition lamp in the speedo was designed to
    detect if the was a different level of charge either side of the
    lamp. What I don’t understand is how can the lamp detect that
    current from alternator is less than consumtion but battery
    indicator says that the battery is ‘‘on charge’’???

  2. The brakes need a huge shove and pull to the left. I suspect the
    servo is not working as when I start the car with foot on brake
    pedal it does not go down slightly. I have removed the vacuum hoses
    to the servo and there is vacuum at both of them with engine on.
    With engine off if I suck on the hose I can hear the valve on the
    engine of pedal master cylinder operating. When I got the car the
    servo master cylinder resevoir was overflowing. Does all this
    indicate that the fault is internal within the servo?

In terms of the brakes pulling to left hand sideside is that likely
to be sticking calliper pistons in the right hand calliper?

Car starts and idles well and pulss smoothly to redline. Shows
30psi oil pressure at idle and 50 under load. I have spent a long
time cleaning wiring connectors and inspecting rubber hoses etc and
considering how long the car has been idle it is in surprisingly
good order.

I am in Sydney, Australia.–
Are we there yet?
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The brake nipples are easy to reach if you know the trick: Pull out
the rear seat bottom and the lower squab. You will find two access
holes hidden behind the seats. They are covered by steel plates, held
in place with a dozen or so screws.

  1. The ignition light is controlled by the 3AW relay, which is
    located under the heater box. It’s a silver cylinder, looks like a
    flasher. The long story of how it works can be found in my faq. You
    have one of two problems: either the AL circuit is open, try to clean
    the contacts on both the alternator and 3AW ends. Or the 3AW is bad.
    http://www.coolcatcorp.com/faqs/Lucasalternators.html

  2. In normal operating mode, there’s vacuum on both sides of the
    servo. When you step on the brakes, air is allowed into the rear
    half, which is what provides the boost. The mechanism for this is the
    white plastic valve at the end of the master cylinder, called the
    reaction valve. It vents to atmosphere when the pedal is pressed.Your
    problem may be there.

You need to get a good shop manual before you start attacking these problems.

Mike Frank

At 09:55 PM 5/8/2011, you wrote:>Hello there

Just purchased 1969 S2 coupe. It has not been on the road since
1980!!! 24,000 miles since new.


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In reply to a message from Michael Frank sent Sun 8 May 2011:

Mike I agree with the other but there is no rear seat on a coupe
and no inspection plates–that is 2+2 only!–
The original message included these comments:

The brake nipples are easy to reach if you know the trick: Pull out
the rear seat bottom and the lower squab. You will find two access
holes hidden behind the seats. They are covered by steel plates, held
in place with a dozen or so screws.


JCRC SE member JCNA Publications and Authenticity Desk
Columbia SC, United States
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In reply to a message from Michael Frank sent Sun 8 May 2011:

Hi Mike thanks for quick reply.

Id love to get to the brake bleed nipples as you describe however
as a coupe there is no rear seat to remove :slight_smile:

Haynes manual, Jag workshop manual and parts manuals already on the
way from Mr Amazon. Will investigate the 3AW relay - I know the
part you mean I did think it was the flasher relay…

In terms of the recation valve is it possible to test? As I
mentioned when I suck on the vacuum hose to servo I can hear the
reaction valve operating. Must admit I hope it does not involve
removing the servo looks pretty tight in there…

Cheers–
Are we there yet?
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Lookin’ good!! I suspect a diod in the alternator is out.
LLoyd

If, by sorcery, any citizen, of whatever rank or station, shall find him, her, or itself in the body, form, or husk of another already bound to these Rules, the Rules governing the actual body, form, or husk inhabited by soul or spirit shall prevail and be binding.
The Book of Rules, II, 412-9-11(d)----- Original Message -----
From: “db7gtgrigio” christophera@fastmail.com.au
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sunday, May 8, 2011 6:55:46 PM
Subject: [E-Type] S2 off road since 1980 now back but couple of issues…

Hello there
Just purchased 1969 S2 coupe. It has not been on the road since
1980!!! 24,000 miles since new. It …


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Yes… just bled mine yesterday. I use a short 7/16 box end and reach the nipple from the front.
LLoyd

If, by sorcery, any citizen, of whatever rank or station, shall find him, her, or itself in the body, form, or husk of another already bound to these Rules, the Rules governing the actual body, form, or husk inhabited by soul or spirit shall prevail and be binding.
The Book of Rules, II, 412-9-11(d)----- Original Message -----
From: “George Camp” scjag@juno.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sunday, May 8, 2011 7:48:48 PM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] S2 off road since 1980 now back but couple of issues…

In reply to a message from Michael Frank sent Sun 8 May 2011:

Mike I agree with the other but there is no rear seat on a coupe
and no inspection plates–that is 2+2 only!


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Quite right. Confusing several threads about '69’s, coupes, 2+2’s.

Mike Frank

At 10:48 PM 5/8/2011, you wrote:>In reply to a message from Michael Frank sent Sun 8 May 2011:

Mike I agree with the other but there is no rear seat on a coupe
and no inspection plates–that is 2+2 only!


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In reply to a message from db7gtgrigio sent Sun 8 May 2011:

The service manual says to remove the front shock of the IRS to
bleed the rear brakes. This is easy to do and bleeding is trivial
once you have that done.

Normally, the brakes require a huge shove, because we are all used
to the touch-system brakes in modern cars. It’s not supposed to be
as light as a BMW on these cars. OTOH, it’s very possible there is
a problem. Just be sure that it’s not just an incorrect
expectation!

Pull would be a stuck piston or problem with the disk surface or
pad, once you replaced the hose. Or, could be excessive play on
the front wheel bearing.

Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
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In reply to a message from db7gtgrigio sent Sun 8 May 2011:

Your situation is similar to mine. I bought a '70 FHC Series 2
that had been stored since 1982 and has low mileage. Regarding the
brakes, the fluid is hygroscopic, therefore absorbs moisture which,
in turn, causes rust. I found both the master cylinder and servo
cylinder were quite rusty inside so replaced both of them. The
front calipers required rebuilding since the seals had hardened and
were leaking. There was some rust in the cylinders but that
cleaned up nicely, as did the pistons.

I haven’t yet got to rebuilding the rear calipers since the manual
says the IRS must be removed to remove the calipers, a job that I
am putting off while I tackle other projects. But the rear bleed
screws offered access through an opening in the front IRS support
plate and were not too difficult to get to. Bleeding the rear
brakes revealed dirty, rusty fluid.

The hoses should also be replaced since they also deteriorate with
time.

In summary and for safety, it is a good idea to rebuild the entire
brake system on a car that has been stored for over 30 years.

Cheers,
Toom–
The original message included these comments:

Just purchased 1969 S2 coupe. It has not been on the road since
1980!!! 24,000 miles since new. It has just passed roadworthy
inspection and seems to be running very nicely. I have replaced
engine oil, coolant and brake fluid (what a lovely job reaching
rear calliper bleed screws) but inevitably there are plenty of
things to attend to with a car that has been off the road for so
long. A couple that I can’t find in the forum archives are below
and I’d really appreciate any suggestions:
2. The brakes need a huge shove and pull to the left. I suspect the
servo is not working as when I start the car with foot on brake
pedal it does not go down slightly. I have removed the vacuum hoses


'60 Mk 2, '68 Rover 2000, '70 E-Type, '01 XJ8, Los Angeles
Los Angeles, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from mouton sent Mon 9 May 2011:

Hi Jerry

I certainly don’t expect modern car brake experience and I have a
few old toys so I think my expectaions are realistic. However, when
I say HUGE shove I mean HUGE shove. Since bleeding the pedal has
firmed up and I can lock the front wheels from about 30mph
(notwithstanding the pull to the left hand side). In Australia we
have to have (depending on the state) an annual safety inspection.
The car has just passed that test, which includes a brake test from
40mph which measures retardation. Car has passed so I think the
brakes are safe for day to day use. However, I agree with the
comment that a 40 yr old system should be treated with some
suspicion so I plan some renovation. At some time the car has been
fitted with cunifer brake lines, and the front flexible hoses are
alos relatively new, so I shall leave them alone. The front discs
are very rusty, so they will be replaced along with new pads. I
shall also replace front pistons with stainless. I am not game to
remove IRS so early in ownership so rear callipers with have to
live with just the fluid flush. Discs are a bit rusty but not as
bad as the fronts. I still think the servo is inoperative for 2
reasons: 1) there is no deflection of the pedal on engine start 2)
the servo fluid resevoir is overfilling, which according to the
forum indicates an internal seal failure. So I suppose a rebuild of
that is in order. Pedal master cylinder is not leaking so I shall
leave that alone.
Chris–
The original message included these comments:

In reply to a message from db7gtgrigio sent Sun 8 May 2011:
Normally, the brakes require a huge shove, because we are all used
to the touch-system brakes in modern cars. It’s not supposed to be
as light as a BMW on these cars. OTOH, it’s very possible there is
a problem. Just be sure that it’s not just an incorrect
expectation!
Pull would be a stuck piston or problem with the disk surface or
pad, once you replaced the hose. Or, could be excessive play on
the front wheel bearing.
Jerry


Are we there yet?
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In reply to a message from db7gtgrigio sent Sun 8 May 2011:

Finally getting around to installing the new remote servo/slave and
new master cylinder/reaction valve. I was planning on reinstalling
mentioned units, reinstall filled resevoirs, make all appropriate
fluid and vacuum connections.And start bleeding away starting with
the rears (fun). Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas as to
whether I’m doing it right ? And in the right order ?I think that I
saw somewhere someone saying that priming the master and remote
servo would make things easier ? If true, how would you do that ?

Incidentally, upon removal of the remote servo, about a quart of
brake fluid just poured out of the vacuum side AND pressure side
hose connections…Don’t think that was very good. I’m sure this was
first rebuilt or new servo since delivered in '67 from accross the
pond. Thanks

i.e. 1967 Series 1, 4.2–
The original message included these comments:

  1. The brakes need a huge shove and pull to the left. I suspect the


Mike Harris 67 Roadster
Gilbert, Az, United States
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In reply to a message from E_Masochist sent Tue 10 May 2011:

Has anyone ever ordered a Motive Power Bleeder…with an adapter
that fits the resevoirs. This is for the ‘‘normal’’ square shaped
plastic resevoirs with aluminum round caps. I originally ordered
and received the MVP-0100 european…whose adapter didn’t fit the
resevoir threads. Upon talking to their support I was advised that
the Girling 1.75 ID Adapter, part number 1123, was the correct
part…and according to my calipers, this appeared to be the right
size BUT this arrived and this doesn’t fit as well. As anyone ever
ordered a Motive Power Bleeder ADAPTER that fits a 67 series 1
OTS ? If so, Please share what the part number is. Thanks–
The original message included these comments:

Finally getting around to installing the new remote servo/slave and


Mike Harris 67 Roadster
Gilbert, Az, United States
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