[E-Type] S3 lower wishbone bushings

I need to replace the bushings on my the lower wishbones and
the process as laid out in the manual seems relatively straight
forward until you get to the part that deals with the torsion
bar. A that point the instructions are printed in big bold
letters which makes me think if I get this wrong I can cause
serious damage to either myself and/or the car.

To be honest I get a little confused by the manual from this
point forward and don’t want to forge ahead unless I’m sure I
fully understand what I’m doing.

It would be a great help if someone can explain this to me in
plainer language. I am referring to step 10-16 on the S3 Repair
Operations Manual.–
Jeff MacGregor
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In reply to a message from Jeff Mac sent Wed 8 Oct 2014:

Jeff,

I don’t know on the S3, but on the S1 and 2 you can change
those bushings without taking the torsion bars off, they
just hang onto the arms while they are repaired. You might
consider whether that would be possible with the S3 too.

You break open the lower balljoint (while supporting the
upright and the rest of the suspension) and

Remove the shock so you can let the arm drop and free up
all tension on the torsion bar;

Remove the retaining bolts and lever the bushing holders
down until they drop free of the frames;

R&R the bushings in the obvious way;

Insert the holders back into the frames and secure with
bolts;

Jack the arm up until you can reinstall the shock and hold
the arm in place;

Reassemble the suspension.

NO BIG BOLD LETTERS IN MY MANUAL, so… there may be some
differences.

Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
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Jerry’s described it right. I just finished this job about 2 days ago. I’m sure the sIII is similalr enough to do it without removing the t-bars. Put a bit of anti-seze on the ball joint taper when reassembleing…
LLoyd

When a lady is pregnant, all her friends touch her stomach and say, “Congrats”.
But, none of them touch the man’s penis and say, “Good job”.
Simple Truth: Some members of a team are never appreciated.----- Original Message -----

Jeff,

I don’t know on the S3, but on the S1 and 2 you can change
those bushings without taking the torsion bars off, they
just hang onto the arms while they are repaired. You might
consider whether that would be possible with the S3 too.

You break open the lower balljoint (while supporting the
upright and the rest of the suspension) and

Remove the shock so you can let the arm drop and free up
all tension on the torsion bar;

Remove the retaining bolts and lever the bushing holders
down until they drop free of the frames;

R&R the bushings in the obvious way;

Insert the holders back into the frames and secure with
bolts;

Jack the arm up until you can reinstall the shock and hold
the arm in place;

Reassemble the suspension.

NO BIG BOLD LETTERS IN MY MANUAL, so… there may be some
differences.

Jerry


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In reply to a message from LLoyd (a rithmetician) sent Wed 8 Oct 2014:

Greetings All,
It’s been 12 years since I did the bushings on my S3 so take
what I have to say with a grain of salt.
IIRC the torsion bar needs to be released to be able to do the
bushings for the lower arms. I was pretty green when I did
them but I can remember fighting with the ‘locking’ bolt and
sliding the T bar back, I followed the manual to the letter
and was very careful to control the lower arm with a floor
jack after I remover the lower ball joint.
I could be mixing things up because I replaced the ball
joints, tie rod ends, bushings all at the same time. Bottom
line, follow the ROM and assume everything can bite you.
Cheers,
Lynn
PS: LLoyd, I think I liked your ‘‘asparagus and beet soup’’
phrase better…
:-)–
The original message included these comments:

Jerry’s described it right. I just finished this job about 2 days ago. I’m sure the sIII is similalr enough to do it without removing the t-bars. Put a bit of anti-seze on the ball joint taper when reassembleing…
When a lady is pregnant, all her friends touch her stomach and say, “Congrats”.
But, none of them touch the man’s penis and say, “Good job”.
Simple Truth: Some members of a team are never appreciated.


Lynn G.
68/85 ots, 73 2+2, Boise, Id., United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


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In reply to a message from L.Lynn sent Wed 8 Oct 2014:

Yeah the S3 is different than the others and Lynn’s recollection
is accurate, the torsion bar has to be released. Which is my
problem because I find the language in the ROM pretty confusing.
Shur cud use some pitchers.–
Jeff MacGregor
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


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In reply to a message from Jeff Mac sent Wed 8 Oct 2014:

Jeff,

FWIW, note that the S1 & 2 manual also says you have to
remove the torsion bar… but there is another way to do
it.

Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
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In reply to a message from L.Lynn sent Wed 8 Oct 2014:

I have changed all the suspension bushings in my series 3 and
installed new torsion bar as well. I followed the manual exactly
including fabricating a piece of aluminum flat stock with holes at
each end to set the torsion bar tension properly. I have pictures
and will try to dig them up to share. I am not sure if your task
can be managed without torsion bar work since I removed mine at the
same time as changing the bushings. None of the work was difficult
as I recall just time consuming but very straight forward.

I had to replace my torsion bar as the ride height on my car was
too low and the bar was no longer adjustable enough to compensate
as designed, the result of sitting in a barn for twenty six
years. I will look for the pictures.

Jeff–
Jeff 84XJS, 74 e-type OTS
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In reply to a message from Jeff Mac sent Wed 8 Oct 2014:

Jeff, The front suspension, lower wishbone is dealt with in
section 60.35.02 in my ROM…Publication part # E.165 3 .
However you look at this, the top wishbone needs to be
disconnected from the lower wishbone…by disconnecting the
upper ball joint! Then the lower arm is lowered in order to
unload the torsion bar so it can be disconnected. Once the
bushes are sorted then you will need to use the setting
gauge to hold the lower arm while the tbs are are put back.(
or you could mark them before removal and put them back in
the orginal position 0. No idea what ROM 10.16 is !?, unless
you mean steps 10 to 16 in ROM 60.35.02 !!–
The original message included these comments:

I need to replace the bushings on my the lower wishbones and
the process as laid out in the manual seems relatively straight
forward until you get to the part that deals with the torsion
bar. A that point the instructions are printed in big bold
It would be a great help if someone can explain this to me in
plainer language. I am referring to step 10-16 on the S3 Repair
Operations Manual.
Jeff MacGregor


John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
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Lynn,
I did mine that way (removed t bars) the first time about 19 years ago. But did them recently and did not remove the t bars. Takes a little wiggling, but worth it to not ahve to reallign the t bars.
As for the sig block, I can tell that you were properly acknowledged and appreciated…
LLoyd

When a lady is pregnant, all her friends touch her stomach and say, “Congrats”.
But, none of them touch the man’s penis and say, “Good job”.
Simple Truth: Some members of a team are never appreciated.----- Original Message -----

Greetings All,
It’s been 12 years since I did the bushings on my S3 so take
what I have to say with a grain of salt.
IIRC the torsion bar needs to be released to be able to do the
bushings for the lower arms. I was pretty green when I did
them but I can remember fighting with the ‘locking’ bolt and
sliding the T bar back, I followed the manual to the letter
and was very careful to control the lower arm with a floor
jack after I remover the lower ball joint.
I could be mixing things …Cheers,
Lynn
PS: LLoyd, I think I liked your ‘‘asparagus and beet soup’’
phrase better…


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In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Wed 8 Oct 2014:

Jeff/John:

Thanks, I think I got it now. Yes John, I meant steps 10 thru 16
60.35.02, wasn’t clear there. Anyway it was the business with the
setting gauge that threw.

So the key thing after disconnecting everything is to control the
lowering of the wishbone using a jack to unload the tension in the
torsion bar and if I mark the torsion bar locations prior to
disassembly there is no need for a setting gauge upon
reinstallation. Do I have that right?–
Jeff MacGregor - 1971 Series III
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In reply to a message from Jeff Mac sent Thu 9 Oct 2014:

Hi Jeff, Yes I think you have got it. I agree with you that
this section of the ROM is so detailed as to deter you from
doing the job !. Also I believe that you don’t need the so
called setting tool.As long as you have the basic principles
in your head things should go OK. Nothing wrong in stopping
now and then to review with yourself whats going on!! i
marked the tb front end with a Dremel cutting disc so the
mark wouldn’t mysteriously disappear at a later crucial
step!!! good luck with yr project…let us know how it goes!–
The original message included these comments:

So the key thing after disconnecting everything is to control the
lowering of the wishbone using a jack to unload the tension in the
torsion bar and if I mark the torsion bar locations prior to
disassembly there is no need for a setting gauge upon
reinstallation. Do I have that right?
Jeff MacGregor - 1971 Series III


John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
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In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Fri 10 Oct 2014:

Thanks John. Will let you know how it goes.–
Jeff MacGregor - 1971 Series III
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