[E-Type] Series 2 Questions

Hi all, thanks for being such a great help on my newbie questions.

I have a few more if you all don’t mind.

-My ignition lock is a bit tired. Is there some place I can find the
mechanical part? I haven’t been able to find anything but the
electrical switch part. I reckon the lock is made of un-obtanium but
figured I’d ask anyways.

-Related to ignition lock: where can I get key blanks?

-Glue for interior carpets: what’s best to use? I always used standard
rubber cement on my MGB top and interior.

-Shift knob: currently there’s a nice leather Growler knob on there.
Is this original? Or is original considered one of the slate 8-ball
style ones? I almost want to believe mine is an Amco, but Im not sure.

-Accessories: are there any fun period proper accessories I should
know about? I do not intend to deviate from an original state but if
there are some cool bits that won’t alter the car, I’d like to know
about them.

Thanks everyone. This is a very helpful and great community.

Roy LichterSent from my iPhone


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In reply to a message from Royal T Lichter sent Tue 16 Feb 2010:

Carpets: None of mine are glued down. They fit together like a
puzzle with overlaps.

Shift Knob: The original shift know was black plastic over a steel
center with the shift pattern incised in white.–
The original message included these comments:

-Glue for interior carpets: what’s best to use? I always used standard
rubber cement on my MGB top and interior.
-Shift knob: currently there’s a nice leather Growler knob on there.
Is this original? Or is original considered one of the slate 8-ball
style ones? I almost want to believe mine is an Amco, but Im not sure.


John Walker, 1969 2+2 - ‘Lola’
La Porte, Tex, United States
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In reply to a message from Royal T Lichter sent Tue 16 Feb 2010:

The actual lock is fairly easy to repair. Start by
squirting some graphite powder into it and see if that
cures it. Do NOT use WD40 or other liquid lubes. If that
doesn’t work, remove the cylinder and take it apart,
carefully. There are a number of pins and springs that will
want to get lost. Make sure they are free to move easily,
put the cylinder back together, and away you go.–
1969 4.2 Series 2 E Type, 1973 Series I XJ6 (rescue car)
Brentwood Bay, B.C., Canada
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In reply to a message from Royal T Lichter sent Tue 16 Feb 2010:

Whoops, I meant to type it looks like a very late Series II.

Darn fingers. :-)–
John Walker, 1969 2+2 - ‘Lola’
La Porte, Tex, United States
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In reply to a message from John Walker sent Tue 16 Feb 2010:

Whoops again, wrong topic.–
The original message included these comments:

Whoops, I meant to type it looks like a very late Series II.
Darn fingers. :slight_smile:


John Walker, 1969 2+2 - ‘Lola’
La Porte, Tex, United States
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John,

No worries, LOL. It is in fact a very late series 2. Something like
within the last 850 produced!

Thanks!!!

RoyalSent from my iPhone

On Feb 16, 2010, at 11:50 AM, John Walker john.walker@shell.com wrote:

In reply to a message from John Walker sent Tue 16 Feb 2010:

Whoops again, wrong topic.

The original message included these comments:

Whoops, I meant to type it looks like a very late Series II.
Darn fingers. :slight_smile:


John Walker, 1969 2+2 - ‘Lola’
La Porte, Tex, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


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I’ll grab some graphite and try this Ian! Thanks!Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 16, 2010, at 11:33 AM, IanCameron ianc@uvic.ca wrote:

In reply to a message from Royal T Lichter sent Tue 16 Feb 2010:

The actual lock is fairly easy to repair. Start by
squirting some graphite powder into it and see if that
cures it. Do NOT use WD40 or other liquid lubes. If that
doesn’t work, remove the cylinder and take it apart,
carefully. There are a number of pins and springs that will
want to get lost. Make sure they are free to move easily,
put the cylinder back together, and away you go.

1969 4.2 Series 2 E Type, 1973 Series I XJ6 (rescue car)
Brentwood Bay, B.C., Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


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In reply to a message from Royal T Lichter sent Tue 16 Feb 2010:

Hi Roy,

Like you, I also have a growler topped gearlever knob on my 1970 S2
which is ex US registered.

A few months ago I was surprised to see they are available to buy
on the SNG Barratt parts website. They are not cheap. I don’t know
however, if they were an original option - I doubt it.

Like you, I would also like to know where ignition key blanks are
available from - I haven’t seen a similar profile at a regular
locksmiths.

Good luck the the car!–
The original message included these comments:

No worries, LOL. It is in fact a very late series 2. Something like


Jeff R
Camberley, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Royal T Lichter sent Tue 16 Feb 2010:

Roy,

Key blanks - Peter Groh (search the archives for contact numbers)
supplies keys cut using the code that is stamped on the barrel on
your lock. He may also supply blanks - I’m not sure. My ignition
lock was pretty sloppy when I bought the car, but actually works
much better with a new key from him. The old key was so worn that
you could withdraw it from the lock in any position.

I wouldn’t glue down the carpets - except for those over the
lateral cross-member in front of the seats. I used velcro strip to
hold mine in place, glued to the back of the carpet with contact
adhesive. I’ve already had to rip the whole set out once since I
installed them to get at the footwell and transmission tunnel, so
I’m grateful that I didn’t glue them down.

-David–
davidxk '56 XK-140 OTS, '69 XKE OTS , '98 XK8
Monterey CA, United States
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In reply to a message from davidxk sent Tue 16 Feb 2010:

Peter Groh is for sure the person you need to go to for this.

This is from a few years ago, but probably still accurate.
Peter Groh
British Car Keys
9957 Frederick Rd
Ellicott City, MD 21042-3647
410-966-8432
email: pete_groh@yahoo.com–
The original message included these comments:

Key blanks - Peter Groh (search the archives for contact numbers)
supplies keys cut using the code that is stamped on the barrel on


Bruce Harless, '64 S1 ots
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In reply to a message from BruceHarless sent Tue 16 Feb 2010:

Roy - this might help you on the ignition switch - I have a
Series II car, and here is my replacement solution for the
stock switch that failed and was difficult to source


ignition-switch/–
Kevin Kemper http://jaguaretype.wordpress.com
Auburn, CA, United States
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Thanks Bruce! Much appreciated.Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 16, 2010, at 1:27 PM, BruceHarless bharless@carolina.rr.com wrote:

In reply to a message from davidxk sent Tue 16 Feb 2010:

Peter Groh is for sure the person you need to go to for this.

This is from a few years ago, but probably still accurate.
Peter Groh
British Car Keys
9957 Frederick Rd
Ellicott City, MD 21042-3647
410-966-8432
email: pete_groh@yahoo.com

The original message included these comments:

Key blanks - Peter Groh (search the archives for contact numbers)
supplies keys cut using the code that is stamped on the barrel on


Bruce Harless, '64 S1 ots
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


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Have you actually tried your local locksmith for keys? I had no key
but I was able to get one made there, based on the codes from the
lock, no problem on blanks. The usual key makers probably don’t have
them, but every small city has someone who does locks for a living…

John North
1967 S1 OTS
1969 S2 CoupeOn Tue, Feb 16, 2010 at 12:18 PM, Royal T Lichter rlich8@me.com wrote:

Hi all, thanks for being such a great help on my newbie questions.

I have a few more if you all don’t mind.

-My ignition lock is a bit tired. Is there some place I can find the
mechanical part? I haven’t been able to find anything but the electrical
switch part. I reckon the lock is made of un-obtanium but figured I’d ask
anyways.

-Related to ignition lock: where can I get key blanks?

-Glue for interior carpets: what’s best to use? I always used standard
rubber cement on my MGB top and interior.

-Shift knob: currently there’s a nice leather Growler knob on there. Is this
original? Or is original considered one of the slate 8-ball style ones? I
almost want to believe mine is an Amco, but Im not sure.

-Accessories: are there any fun period proper accessories I should know
about? I do not intend to deviate from an original state but if there are
some cool bits that won’t alter the car, I’d like to know about them.

Thanks everyone. This is a very helpful and great community.

Roy Lichter

Sent from my iPhone


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Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
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In reply to a message from Royal T Lichter sent Tue 16 Feb 2010:

It sounds like you have the combination Britax lock/ignition
switch (late SII). The switch can be taken apart to clean
the contacts if necessary, but you may have problems keeping
it back together because there are bent metal tangs that
hold the switch together and these tangs loose their ability
to hold after they are bent.

The lock itself is very robust and rugged. The lock barrel
can be removed by driving out the drive pin that holds it in
place. A good cleaning and a dry lube will be all the thing
ever needs.

Some of the usuals are offering a replacement SII ignition
lock/switch. To my knowledge this is actually the Waso that
was used in the SIII after mid-1971. It doesn’t look the
same but it will fit your car and you will have to diddle
with the switch wiring because it comes with a harness.

The growler know was an aftermarket from Amco. The dealers
liked to put these on to make the car look sportier.

The Britax key blank is very similar to the old 1960’s
Volkswagen key. Gook key shops used to carry the blanks for
both but I have no idea if they still do. I know that blanks
are available as they show up on ebay from time to time.
Peter Groh will be the best place to start looking.

Richard Liggitt–
The original message included these comments:

-My ignition lock is a bit tired. Is there some place I can find the


'70 E Roadster 1R11998, '98 XK8 Roadster, www.XKEBooks.com
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Richard L. wrote:

In reply to a message from Royal T Lichter sent Tue 16 Feb 2010:

It sounds like you have the combination Britax lock/ignition
switch (late SII). The switch can be taken apart to clean
the contacts if necessary, but you may have problems keeping
it back together because there are bent metal tangs that
hold the switch together and these tangs loose their ability
to hold after they are bent.

The lock itself is very robust and rugged. The lock barrel
can be removed by driving out the drive pin that holds it in
place. A good cleaning and a dry lube will be all the thing
ever needs.

Some of the usuals are offering a replacement SII ignition
lock/switch. To my knowledge this is actually the Waso that
was used in the SIII after mid-1971. It doesn’t look the
same but it will fit your car and you will have to diddle
with the switch wiring because it comes with a harness.

A key switch with faston tabs is available.
http://www.e-type-lovers.com/s2keysw.htm

George Cohn
'70 OTS______________________________________________________
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In reply to a message from George Cohn sent Tue 16 Feb 2010:

The switchs can be physically swapped back and forth between
the Britax and the Waso because they are the same geometry.
The problem is that the switch with the spades (faston tabs)
is no longer available anywhere except the occasional ebay
offering.

The Lucas 39679 switch that was fitted with the SII Britax
came both as a plastic housing (A version) and a metal can
housing with phenolic back (B version). Both fit the same
and have the same numbering on the tabs. I suspect that only
the ‘A’ version was factory fitted and that the ‘B’ version
came out later as a replacement. The ‘A’ version was known
for contact burning problems.

Richard Liggitt–
'70 E Roadster 1R11998, '98 XK8 Roadster, www.XKEBooks.com
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In reply to a message from Richard L. sent Tue 16 Feb 2010:

I was rummaging in my junk drawer and I found a SII Britax
key labeled TAYLOR V77V. I looked it up on Ebay and found
one 310199643628. Doesn’t quite look like the Britax blank,
but it works.

Richard Liggitt–
'70 E Roadster 1R11998, '98 XK8 Roadster, www.XKEBooks.com
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