[E-Type] Series 2 Rocker Switch Holder Panel

I have been diligently cleaning up electrical connections on
the ‘‘new’’ car. Last night I removed the rocker switch
holder panel and cleaned up the innards of every switch -
nice simple task with instant gratification as my side
lights will now work.

As you know, the switch holder panel is attached to the
instrument panel with screws into its 4 plastic extrusions
(term?). They have all broken to some degree over the
years. The panel is in otherwise good enough condition for
a driver, so has anyone had any success in MacGyvering a
repair for these extrusions?

Thanks–
Ian 1970 OTS
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In reply to a message from Smeg999 sent Wed 2 Mar 2011:

I don’t know how to edit my original post, so I will add the
other question I forgot to ask.

The label panel beneath the switches has a green translucent
film on the back, presumably to cut down dash glare at
night. Mine is not in good shape. What have you all used
as a replacement for it?

Thanks–
Ian 1970 OTS
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In reply to a message from Smeg999 sent Wed 2 Mar 2011:

Ian,

I’ll describe the refurbishment of my S2 panel. I apologize in
advance for the 2 part post.

I did this job last year. My original panel looked pretty dingy,
the switch covers were dried out and discolored from UV exposure,
the silver outline around the rockers was worn off and some of the
switches did not work well or fell through the panel when you
pressed on them. I actually ordered a replacement panel from one
of the usuals. The new replacement panels are like those that came
standard on a series 3. They have the tall plastic extrusion that
surrounds the headlight switches. I decided not to use the
replacement panel and restored the original. I had the same issue
with broken extrusions. Luckily the broken off sections stayed on
the screws. I was able to use super glue to repair the extrusions
(I’ve uploaded a bunch of pictures to my album, I’m sure they will
eventually appear). Hopefully, you have the broken pieces,
otherwise, you’ll need a more creative solution. Maybe some small
diameter threaded rod, or a long, small diameter machine screw with
the head cut off. You could epoxy the threaded section into what’s
left of your extrusion and end up with a panel with 4 male studs
extending from the rear of the panel.

The switches themselves are easily rebuildable. Once they’re
removed, pop the rocker cover off and it’s easy to figure out how
they work, a small copper dumbbell shaped piece slides over
contacts to turn the switch on/off. You will normally find green
corroded contacts and some long dried out electrical grease. Just
clean them out with some plastic safe contact cleaner and scrape
and clean all corroded surfaces. reapply fresh di-electric grease
and the switched can be made to function well. If your rocker
covers are dried out or discolored, 303 Aerospace Protectant may
bring them back. Mine were too far gone. A buffer with a loose
flannel wheel and blue buffing compound (for plastics) brought the
switch covers back to like new condition. 2 of the 10 were pretty
bad and required some work with 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper
before buffing. A word of warning, even with a loose flannel wheel,
it’s possible to use excessive pressure and put flat spots on
curved surface or sharp edges. Or, check Welsh Enterprises. They
sometimes have new switch covers at a good price.

Stay tuned for part 2…–
John B. - 69 SII OTS 1R7442
Pottstown, PA, United States
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In reply to a message from Smeg999 sent Wed 2 Mar 2011:

Part 2…

Another issue I had was the switches falling through the panel. As
you know, the switched load from the front and have a plastic tang
that keeps them in place. This plastic tang often breaks off and
causes the switch to be loose or fall back out through the front.
What keeps them from falling through the back of the panel is a
very small lip around recess that accepts the switch. This lip also
provides the landing surface for the plastic tang on the switch. I
had at least 2 areas of the panel where the lip was either broken
or otherwise damaged. On one of these, a previous mechanic tried
to use a soldering iron to ‘‘weld’’ the switch into place. He only
succeeded in melting some of the plastic around the switch recess.
I was able to repair this situation by drilling small holes through
the switch recess an slightly into the switch and inserting a #2
(tiny) self tapping screw. Be careful not to drive the screw into
the switch mechanism.

Finally, I spruced up the silver painted areas around the switches
with a silver paint pen, purchased at a local craft shop (credit
Bob Skelly for this idea). A thick coat from the paint pen worked
better than thinner coats. Sure it would have been easier
(although more costly) just to replace the parts, but it kind of
felt good to refurb the original panel with it’s original date code
of August 1968 and put it back into it’s place. It really turned
out well.–
John B. - 69 SII OTS 1R7442
Pottstown, PA, United States
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I believe you’re talking about the film that makes the illumination
for the panel green. I have not done it myself but have read over the
years that you can get the stuff from a theater supply. I believe
they call it “gel”. Its made to color the lamps and will take the
heat. Take a piece of the old one with you and match the color,
should be able to get any color you like.
pauls 67ots

The label panel beneath the switches has a green translucent
film on the back, presumably to cut down dash glare at
night. Mine is not in good shape. What have you all used
as a replacement for it?
<<<<<<<<<<From: “Smeg999” lbc.resto@verizon.net
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Series 2 Rocker Switch Holder Panel


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In reply to a message from paul spurlock sent Wed 2 Mar 2011:

Eastwood has a product that can mend or reshape plastic. It
comes as a kit. I have used more or less successfully. You
can recreate tabs with it.–
Gary Herzberg, 63 3.8 FHC 66 Series 1 OTS, 98 xk8
Montana, United States
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G’Day Ian,
Off topic, but just noticed your moniker. Would such a person paint their
LBC same colour as rust and call it ‘Red Dwarf’? :-))
Cheers, John B. 67 2+2 in OzFrom: “Smeg999”


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In reply to a message from john bennett sent Thu 3 Mar 2011:

:slight_smile:

LBCs can be a lot like Rimmer; they let you down at the most
inopportune moment.

Time to un-rumble.–
The original message included these comments:

Off topic, but just noticed your moniker. Would such a person paint their
LBC same colour as rust and call it ‘Red Dwarf’? :-))


Ian 1970 OTS
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