E Type Series 3 Differential Rebuild Problem

Hello,

I’m restoring the differential in my E Type S3. When I opened it up I found that the cross pins for the spider gears had broken. After lots of searching I found replacement gears and cross pins. My challenge is that when I go to attach the 2 output shafts, I’m ending up with a larger than normal gap, making it impossible to properly center the calipers over the rotors. The cross pins that were originally in the diff (that broke) had a spacer block attached to the them, so I assumed that this was correct. I recently read that there are 2 versions of the cross pins, one with the spacer block and one without (image attached). Anyone know which is correct for the E Type S3?

Thanks,
Chris

Hi Chris I’ve rebuilt several E Type and XJ12 differentials. I’m no expert however. I don’t understand your question. First what do you mean by spacer block. I see nothing in the parts diagrams for Ser III diff’s that is called that, and don’t recall anything in any diff I’ve had apart that would warrant that term. Secondly I don’t understand why you can’t center the rotors. That implies that the hub is either too close to the case or too far away. The position of the hub is determined by the number of shims between it’s carrier and the diff case. Did you exactly replace the number of shims each side that were there when you took the case apart.?

Hi Terry,

I appreciate the response. In the photo on my original post, the cross pins currently installed look like the one to the right. They have this small spacer attached in the middle of each of the 2 cross pins. I think that the cross pin shouldn’t have any spacer at all and should look like the one to the left with a hole in the center (where you’d attach a spacer if needed). I believe that whoever restored it years ago used the cross pin with the spacers and that’s what originally caused it to break. I, unfortunately, assumed that I was the first to open it up and that the internal parts were correct, so went about matching them up. I hope that helps.

Here’s a photo looking down through one of the output shafts (yellow arrow pointing to the spacer that may be unnecessary that’s attached to the center of the cross pin).

Thanks!

Chris - every diff I’ve done has cross shafts with the hole, no spacer. I have seen some photos of diffs - not Jaguar, where there is a pin through the hole. I would have thought that it is necessary that all four shafts must be on the same plane, in fact I can’t possibly see how they could work if they are not, and could easily see why the cross shafts would break - through the hole. Anyway the comments you have highlighted from the Dana 60 rebuild manual(?) referencing a semi floating axle that requires a spacer block apply to a solid axle set up, not an independent Jaguar rear end. A semi floating axle carries the cars weight on a single bearing around the end of the axle shaft - you know 3 feet out from the differential, and is vastly different from the jaguar set up. No end float or play is specified or required in the Jaguar set up. I’d deep six the spacer - but make sure that the 4 pinion mate gears are on the same plane without it.

Hi Chris…are you shimming between the output shaft flange and the diff case as per the service manual so that you only crush the oil seal to the required amount…and as Terry mentions shim the disc out so that ist central in the caliper…Steve

Thanks Terry, I’ll give that a try this weekend.

Hi Steve, I actually didn’t get far enough to do so. I could tell it was tightening up too far out. I’m hoping that I get to the point of shimming up and aligning the calipers this weekend. Thanks for the feedback.