Dear E type lovers
I am in process of purchasing an E type series 3 (1973) V12
Distance covid restrictions make it difficult to inspect but the mechanic that looks after the car and the receipts indicate well looked after amd keep in good Mech running. It’s not driven allot in lat 5 years. No signs of overheating but is there anything I should look out for on this model?
Cheers
It’s an expensive proposition buying an E. I recommend hiring a set of eyes who is familiar w Jags or vintage british cars to help you look things over. It will give you peace of mind. I done the same thing and it was certainly best $250 I ever spent.
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Suggest you get someone to check the body very carefully for rust or previous damage. A magnet is useful to see that there are not areas filled with body filler to cover poorly repaired panels.
From my bad experience there are some that repair bodies correctly and many more that just make it look nice on the outside.
Good luck - body repairs are much more expensive that the mechanicals
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I would say first that actually being in communication with a mechanic that is familiar with the car and having records is a huge plus. All you really have to do is decide whether the mechanic is a straight shooter or not. I know, easier said than done.
If you haven’t done so, enter the VIN number to xkedata.com and see what comes up.
Probably the most direct way to answer your question is to suggest you purchase Peter Crepin’s book on the S3 cars. It’s on Amazon and probably available to you in just a few days.
If you were to divulge the location of the car, a J-L member may be nearby and willing to help.
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As an ex-mechanic on these things, I cannot possibly agree more wholeheartedly with those who are saying to find someone who can inspect this car for you. Please let us know where you are on the planet and that way we can more easily figure out who might be near you.
One quick check that is easy to do determines the general condition of the motor mounts.
The bodies of the air filters (contains the filter) are bolted to the engine.
The air horns are bolted to the cross bar of the frame.
They are connected with the rubber bellows
If the line along the top of the filter housing and the air horn is straight and level, the motor mounts are likely in good nick.
If there is a step down (the filter housing sits lower than the horn) the motor mounts are old and may be in need of replacement.
Found this on-line image from a V12 that sold. The line is straight indicating motor mounts are likely in good shape.
This is NOT a definitive test, but a good indicator of a potential problem area
Another way of determining the same is to look under the airboxes. They pass over the engine frames and you should see that the gap to the engine frame is similar on both sides. If it isn’t then the engine frames may have paint chip marks here from when engine torque makes it twist under load.
kind regards
Marek
Believe me, I can confirm what Marek said, the passenger side motor mount was in such bad shape that the air box was practically seating on top of the frame rail. JS
First, congratulations on your good taste in wanting a Series III, the ultimate iteration of the classic. That said, it is getting onto 50 years old and even if much has been renewed that will be an ongoing process. The best part is that most of the car is metal and stands up much better than the modern plastic fantastics, but things come loose, dry seals leak, IRS and motor mounts collapse, hoses perish. Learn about the car, fixing things is much simpler than it might initially appear. I truly enjoy working on mine, and am delighted by the extensive availability of spares, hire it done and you will fund your mechanic’s 401k. When you get your car, drive it and enjoy it, that’s what it was made for.
Lots of folks are intimidated by the apparent complexity of the V12 engine.
But it really is just 2x in-line 6’s joined on a common crank
(In truth, that is how one of the prototypes was developed)
But - back to modern day:
the V12 firing order is
1A 6B 5A 2B 3A 4B 6A 1B 2A 5B 4A 3B
Now lets extract just the A Bank firing order
1-5-3-6-2-4
And lets compare that to the in-line 6
1-5-3-6-2-4
Hmmm I see a pattern
Now lets extract the B Bank firing order
6-2-4-1-5-3
and that is the 6-cylinder order offset 180°
And the original engine had 1 carb for each 2 cylinders
The V12 has …1 carb for each 3 cylinders
So it is simpler. HA
You just keep tellin’ yerself that, Sparky…
Dear All,
Thank you for all of your help and advice.
I live in a town called Warrnambool in Victoria, Australia. We are in a covid lock down situation so not able to travel to Melbourne (where the car is) at this time. However I will have an expert take a look and take on all of your advice.
Ill upload a photo if the sale goes through.
Cheers, Steve.
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Thank you Pascal and all, much appreciated.
I am getting some expert inspections, especially around the rust in the floor pan, which likely needs replacing.
Usually if there is rust in the floors there will Be elsewhere especially the sills. If the price is right and you can find a good reasonable body shop it can still be worth it.
Thanks Pascal,
I’m going to get a good body shop to take a look.
Cheers, Steve.