[E-Type] SII Heater Blower Motor Replacement

E Type SII heater restoration.
Please refer to the link to my photo album
http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1294581813
The old heater case was somewhat corroded so a new bottom
plate, flap for air diversion, and its pivot shaft was
fabricated and installed. The original blower motor was also
refurbished, but when I tested it I realized how slow it
rotated, and with that flat bladed blower wheel, I could see
how the heater would be almost useless! After looking at
the problem from a number of different angles I finally
decided to fit a blower unit from a �92 Cutlass. It rotated
in the correct direction, where most wreckers yard stuff
seemed to go in the other direction! Also the blower wheel
diameter was just over the 5 inches. This had the advantage
that the mounting hole could be enlarged with the angle
grinder, and also the double thickness of metal in the lip
area could be retained, and bolt holes could be tapped. The
blower already had a slightly compressed mounting gasket, so
I made up an additional one to ensure the blower wheel did
not foul the blower screen. I have retained the old blower
resistor, see picture, and the system is still 2 speed. I
think I will feed the power to the blower motor through
relays( one in each line) to safeguard the switch, which is
original, and might not like the possibly higher current
load of the newer motor.–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Sun 9 Jan 2011:

Well-done, John! In addition to the Fiero fan, this gives
another option. I’m also interested in the relaying of the
inputs given I’d like to not burn out my original toggle,
which has a proper patina…:wink:

Would you, or the other electrical geeks here, have a
suggestion as to how to wire in the relay(s)?–
The original message included these comments:

E Type SII heater restoration.
Please refer to the link to my photo album
http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1294581813


Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Sun 9 Jan 2011:

Ah, I can see it now… 50 years from now, folks on this list
will be arguing over the exact body number where the GM blower
motor was phased into S3 production. :slight_smile:
Looks like a nice retrofit - much cleaner than the Fiero one.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Sun 9 Jan 2011:

Yeah! Well Since there are 2 wires from the switch to the
blower motor the only way I can think of is to have a relay
in each line.So I think the best location is the under dash
area as close to the panel switch as possible…this makes
it easier to locate the wires which otherwise will be
'‘buried’ in the harness.I will draw a diagram up and post it
on my PA.–
The original message included these comments:

another option. I’m also interested in the relaying of the
inputs given I’d like to not burn out my original toggle,
which has a proper patina…:wink:
Would you, or the other electrical geeks here, have a
suggestion as to how to wire in the relay(s)?
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!


John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Sun 9 Jan 2011:

Great work John. It looks like a great upgrade. I did some
research on your info that a 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass had the
correct part for your upgrade .Here are the part numbers
.Hopefully this may help others follow your example:
PART NUMBER CROSS REFERENCE:
OEM# 19153679, 52498954
AC Delco# 15-80467, 15-81104
4 Seasons# 35352
Proliance# 5299
Delphi BM10027 A/C Heater Blower Motor Fan
There are some on EBay for about $50 including both motor
and fan - e.g. Item number:290513582097 or 250746324834
There is a crossover list and good dimensioned drawing with
this listing for a TYC blower:Item number:330513774241.
It would also be easy to buy the correct connector and
resistor for this blower since they are listed together if
you search for : ‘‘blower motor cutlass’’ and then do a sub
search for year 1992.Here is a link:
http://bit.ly/gBLua7

here is the full link:
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?Model%20Year=1992&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A4390&rt=nc&_nkw=blower

I hope this helps others.–
The original message included these comments:

E Type SII heater restoration.
Please refer to the link to my photo album
http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1294581813
how the heater would be almost useless! After looking at
the problem from a number of different angles I finally
decided to fit a blower unit from a �92 Cutlass. It rotated
in the correct direction, where most wreckers yard stuff
seemed to go in the other direction! Also the blower wheel
diameter was just over the 5 inches. This had the advantage
that the mounting hole could be enlarged with the angle
grinder, and also the double thickness of metal in the lip


69 E-Type ots ,07 Miata ,‘X’-type SUV
Sierra Madre Ca 91024, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Sun 9 Jan 2011:

John,

Great job! This looks very neat. One question: are there any
external clearance issues with the new motor we should be aware of?
It looks to be significantly ‘‘fatter’’ than the original, though not
as ‘‘tall’’. As the clearance between my motor and the frame rails is
currently about 150 miles (the car is in bits in two places!), I
can’t tell how close they are, but in the photos I took before I
took it apart, they seem quite close.

-David–
davidxk '56 XK-140 OTS, '69 XKE OTS , '98 XK8
Monterey CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Sun 9 Jan 2011:

For a hand drawn wiring diagram, please see my photo
Album.it should come up very soon, as I just put it in there.J–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from anthony davenport sent Sun 9 Jan 2011:

The blower I used came from a local car wrecker ( cost me
$40 Cad ) , and it is the AC Delco 15-80467/15-81104…both
numbers written side by side in the unit.I bought it as a
total unit motor with blower wheel.I would urge folks to go
that route, as often these units are not easy to fit to a
new separate blower wheel ( sometimes involving heat
treatment and different plastics )–
The original message included these comments:

PART NUMBER CROSS REFERENCE:
OEM# 19153679, 52498954
AC Delco# 15-80467, 15-81104
4 Seasons# 35352
Proliance# 5299
Delphi BM10027 A/C Heater Blower Motor Fan


John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from davidxk sent Sun 9 Jan 2011:

David, The blower wheel is about 5 1/4’‘in diameter, and so a
small enlargement of the lower hole was made …see pics. I
trimmed 1/8th’’ from the end of the blower wheel ( easy as
its plastic ), as well as useing a gasket for fitting…also
see pics.Since the motor is partly inside the blower wheel ,
the electric motor actually takes up LESS room than the oe.–
The original message included these comments:

external clearance issues with the new motor we should be aware of?
It looks to be significantly ‘‘fatter’’ than the original, though not
as ‘‘tall’’. As the clearance between my motor and the frame rails is
davidxk '56 XK-140 OTS, '69 XKE OTS , '98 XK8


John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Sun 9 Jan 2011:

This looks very nice, John - thanks for documenting it.

Having recently had mine apart (the motor was very stiff and
needing lubrication), I was thinking about the squirrel cage
blades. On the original they are flat blades, yet modern
cages tend to have curved blades. On the face of it, curved
would appear to be better (larger blade surface area at
least). But, when the motor is ‘‘off’’ then you want the least
flow restriction to the incoming air, so that it passes
easily into through the heater box. Wouldn’t this be
afforded by flat blades, because there is minimum
obstruction to the passing air?

Probably it’s a marginal difference, if it exists at all!–
The original message included these comments:

David, The blower wheel is about 5 1/4’‘in diameter, and so a
small enlargement of the lower hole was made …see pics. I
trimmed 1/8th’’ from the end of the blower wheel ( easy as
its plastic ), as well as useing a gasket for fitting…also
see pics.Since the motor is partly inside the blower wheel ,
the electric motor actually takes up LESS room than the oe.


Julian, '69 E-Type 2+2
Pasadena, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

Wiggy,
Easy to wire a relay but since there are two speeds it becomes
complex. If you are willing to dispense with the low speed just
locate a relay near the battery and use the high speed wire coming
from the sw, to energize the relay. Connecting the load carrying
contact directly to the battery. An inline fuse would be a good idea
since this bypasses the car’s fuse. If you want both speeds it can be
done but will need a relay for each speed or a single relay that will
will support two energized states. Maybe there’s a relay box with two
relays in it which would support both speeds. Since the heater is
over the battery this can be done with all the car’s own wiring and
adding maybe 12" of wire from the battery to the relay. Simple and
sanitary.
pauls 67ots

…Would you, or the other electrical geeks here, have a
suggestion as to how to wire in the relay(s)?
<<<<<<<<<<<From: “Wiggles” vrooomie@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [E-Type] SII Heater Blower Motor Replacement


Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from paul spurlock sent Sun 9 Jan 2011:

Since I had performed the Fiero motor swap on mine and recently
lost the heater fan switch the relay idea seems compelling. I
replaced the Heater switch with one from SNG and will see how it
holds up. I opened up my 45 year old switch and the contacts looked
fine. Upon closer examination I noticed the pastic flag that holds
the crossbar contact had melted slightly I believe from the heat of
the increased amperage for the Fiero motor causing the copper
contact to slip and warp sideways after the nail like fastener that
held the contact in place came loose in the plastic. maybe caused
by age but we will see for I am running the new switch in place
now. If it happens again I will add a relay.

Ken 66 2+2/ 59 MGA–
The original message included these comments:

locate a relay near the battery and use the high speed wire coming
from the sw, to energize the relay. Connecting the load carrying
contact directly to the battery. An inline fuse would be a good idea
since this bypasses the car’s fuse. If you want both speeds it can be


ktucker8
Folsom/Ca, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from ktucker8 sent Tue 11 Jan 2011:

Ken, Your pioneering foray into motor replacement is what
triggered me, and as the Fiero is almost unheard of round
here I had to find a different route!!Anyway, on reading
your comments about the internals of you old switch, I would
guess that the new one might well ‘‘go’’ the same way.In my
photo album I posted a sketch of the 2 relay circuit,
necessary to protect that switch, but unfortunately the
clarity is low. I will replace it with a better one soon.As
I mentioned once before, I think the best location is in the
dash.–
The original message included these comments:

Since I had performed the Fiero motor swap on mine and recently
lost the heater fan switch the relay idea seems compelling. I
replaced the Heater switch with one from SNG and will see how it
holds up. I opened up my 45 year old switch and the contacts looked
fine. Upon closer examination I noticed the pastic flag that holds
the crossbar contact had melted slightly I believe from the heat of
the increased amperage for the Fiero motor causing the copper
contact to slip and warp sideways after the nail like fastener that
held the contact in place came loose in the plastic. maybe caused
by age but we will see for I am running the new switch in place
now. If it happens again I will add a relay.


John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Wed 12 Jan 2011:

Hi John,
I am pretty proficient with electrical. I can add a couple small 40
amp Bosch relays that would work fine. I know its a another $51.00
gamble with the new switch but I am going to see if it holds up. I
guess I could get creative and run a amp test on the Fiero motor
versus the Grainger but I don’t have time. I have been busy with
other projects. I’ll post the results if my new switch fails. I
think your relay idea is a excellent suggestion.

Ken 66 2+2/ 59 MGA–
The original message included these comments:

Ken, Your pioneering foray into motor replacement is what
triggered me, and as the Fiero is almost unheard of round
here I had to find a different route!!Anyway, on reading
your comments about the internals of you old switch, I would
guess that the new one might well ‘‘go’’ the same way.In my
photo album I posted a sketch of the 2 relay circuit,
necessary to protect that switch, but unfortunately the
clarity is low. I will replace it with a better one soon.As
I mentioned once before, I think the best location is in the


ktucker8
Folsom/Ca, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php