In reply to a message from Bill Mckenna sent Mon 13 Sep 2004:
Bill…
You have graduated, to the Paul Wigton School of ‘‘Darn, I’m SURE I
can Rebuild this Myself!’’
Time to buy yourself a Unimat. All the normal outlets (Harbor
Freight, et al) have them. They are INVALUABLE in the manufacture
of bushings and the like. Easily-obtained Oillite bronze and bronze
alloy is all you need, a bit of practice on a few bits (I suggest
aluminum) and you too, can make your OWN replacement bushings!
Ray, THAT’S whatcha need to do…find someway to park yourself in
front of your lathe, during your downtime, and knock out some swarf!–
The original message included these comments:
Agree, but you’d think someone some where would go against
the grain, with all the do it yourselfers in the
british car hobby.
–
Paul Wigton, keeper of Tweety!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Ok sure I’ll get one, but I need to figure out a place to
put all these tools first. Need to get a warehouse to
store my overflow!
Problem with the warehouse thing is I could just buy the
parts I need in a couple months rent… why is it always
always like that
thanks
bill
Wiggles wrote:
In reply to a message from Bill Mckenna sent Mon 13 Sep 2004:
Bill…
You have graduated, to the Paul Wigton School of ‘‘Darn, I’m SURE I
can Rebuild this Myself!’’
Time to buy yourself a Unimat. All the normal outlets (Harbor
Freight, et al) have them. They are INVALUABLE in the manufacture
of bushings and the like. Easily-obtained Oillite bronze and bronze
alloy is all you need, a bit of practice on a few bits (I suggest
aluminum) and you too, can make your OWN replacement bushings!
Ray, THAT’S whatcha need to do…find someway to park yourself in
front of your lathe, during your downtime, and knock out some swarf!
The original message included these comments:
Agree, but you’d think someone some where would go against
the grain, with all the do it yourselfers in the
british car hobby.
–
Paul Wigton, keeper of Tweety!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
You sure have been busy chasing down your “bits” for the distributor.
I agree fully that it shouldn’t be so difficult to get the small parts
for the distributor. Same for the alternator and the starter. These
units fail only because of certain parts, which shoudl be cheap and
easy to renew. After you figure it all out, perhaps you could send us
your triumphant results!!!
In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Mon 13 Sep 2004:
Paul,
If Bill’s a sufferer then you should be honest… we
expect that from founding father types. The full form is to
get a Unimat, then upgrade, but the less painful and
expensive form of the disease is to just go straight to a
Myford.
I have a Unimat lathe and a separate Milling machine.
They were fine for making clock and pocket watch parts (for
which I bought them). Because of the clockwork I have a
fairly extensive attachment range (dividing head, ball end
etc etc), all of which are sized to fit the Unimat. I’ve
made a few bushings and screws and such on the unimat, but
it’s just a little bit too small for generator commutators.
Really what you need for the car work is a Nyford 7, or
a South Bend. Here in Europe I have seen a few ‘‘garage
lathes’’: enough bed clearance for drums and discs, but not
much more than 2 feet bedway or so. Schaublin, I think.
Andrew–
The original message included these comments:
You have graduated, to the Paul Wigton School of ‘‘Darn, I’m SURE I
can Rebuild this Myself!’’
Time to buy yourself a Unimat. All the normal outlets (Harbor
Freight, et al) have them. They are INVALUABLE in the manufacture
–
1968 3.8S
Zurich, Switzerland
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
The only part I’ve come up with is the top bearing for the Distributor,
XKs sells these for about $30.
My thought is I may just Nickel plate the bronze bushings and reinstall.
the Nickel is harder than bronze but softer than steel so I’d think it
would be a pretty good way to fix them up.
I still have a few people to check with for NOS rebuild kits, but
if that fails I’m going to try the plating.
What I really need to do is find a source for raw bushings and bearings
by size. Then just order what I need. I found a few places on the net
but so far haven’t found a catalogue that I can order which has all the
sizes. I’m almost 100% sure this is what R&R shops do for stuff like
this. Maybe I just need to drop one part off at a shop and ask for a
tour. Then snoop around a little bit… see if I can see some catalogues.
laying around and write down the names.
thanks
bill
PaulBjarnason wrote:
Bill -
You sure have been busy chasing down your “bits” for the distributor.
I agree fully that it shouldn’t be so difficult to get the small parts
for the distributor. Same for the alternator and the starter. These
units fail only because of certain parts, which shoudl be cheap and
easy to renew. After you figure it all out, perhaps you could send us
your triumphant results!!!
Yes if I had space I’d get a mill and a press and lathes and
all the other cool tools that you need to make whatever you want.
Buy a bunch of bronze bar stock and go to town.
I’d really like to find a warehouse but… unless you have
a business bringing in revenue it isn’t practical.
So… unless I get crazy and blow out my basement I’m kind of limited
unless I want to sell some cars to make space… which kind of
defeats the purpose
thanks
bill
Andrew Waugh wrote:
In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Mon 13 Sep 2004:
Paul,
If Bill’s a sufferer then you should be honest… we
expect that from founding father types. The full form is to
get a Unimat, then upgrade, but the less painful and
expensive form of the disease is to just go straight to a
Myford.
I have a Unimat lathe and a separate Milling machine.
They were fine for making clock and pocket watch parts (for
which I bought them). Because of the clockwork I have a
fairly extensive attachment range (dividing head, ball end
etc etc), all of which are sized to fit the Unimat. I’ve
made a few bushings and screws and such on the unimat, but
it’s just a little bit too small for generator commutators.
Really what you need for the car work is a Nyford 7, or
a South Bend. Here in Europe I have seen a few ‘‘garage
lathes’’: enough bed clearance for drums and discs, but not
much more than 2 feet bedway or so. Schaublin, I think.
Andrew
The original message included these comments:
You have graduated, to the Paul Wigton School of ‘‘Darn, I’m SURE I
can Rebuild this Myself!’’
Time to buy yourself a Unimat. All the normal outlets (Harbor
Freight, et al) have them. They are INVALUABLE in the manufacture
–
1968 3.8S
Zurich, Switzerland
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Bill McKenna sent Tue 14 Sep 2004:
Bill,
I assume you’ve already tried McMaster-Carr?–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Tue 14 Sep 2004:
Bill,
One final option: I have Jeff’s old dizzy, which seems to be
in fine shape. You might could buy it from him, and swap the shaft
and/or bearings into yours. I’d be happy to tear it down and make
sure it’s all sound.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
well no I haven’t tried them but guess its worth a look
Need to mic up everything first. So I know what
I’m looking at.
If the bearing I ordered from XKs is close then I just
need the bronze bushing at the bottom on the Distributor
and 2 bushings for the starter motor. I already got brushes
from Xks.
I have to say as much trouble as we have had with xks in the
past, they have been pretty good to me so far… Super quick
turn around and the prices are actually the same or cheaper
on many things than Terry. I can order parts on a Monday
and have them in my hot little hands on Wednesday.
Yesterday I put in an order but forgot a couple things. I called
them back 2 hours later to try and add to the order and
was told that the previous order had already been shipped out.
thanks
bill
Ray Livingston wrote:
In reply to a message from Bill McKenna sent Tue 14 Sep 2004:
Bill,
I assume you’ve already tried McMaster-Carr?
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
that would be the later style don’t think it would work
with my early 3.8 40617A
I am going to try and build up the shaft with braze if Dick V
doesn’t have a good used shaft for me.
Thanks
bill
Ray Livingston wrote:
In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Tue 14 Sep 2004:
Bill,
One final option: I have Jeff’s old dizzy, which seems to be
in fine shape. You might could buy it from him, and swap the shaft
and/or bearings into yours. I’d be happy to tear it down and make
sure it’s all sound.
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Beware of slippery slopes. I started out with a
Unimat, then graviated to a Maximat 8, followed
by a Maximat V-13. All made by Emco-Maier of
Austria. Somehow a Bridgeport mill found its way
into my shop together with a Hardinge HLVM
tool lathe.
Latest addition is a Miyano BNC-34S dual spindle
CNC turning center. Where will it all end? The machines
are expensive enough as they are, but the tooling
costs quickly surpass the machine’s cost. So it
gets expensive after a while. I am pretty sure that had
I not gotten this gear, but limited myself to drawings
and PO’s to machine shops only, I would have only
spend the interest on the principal currently invested.
And these tools lose value rapidly. In today’s market a
good Bridgeport mill can be had for about $500 and
that includes a decent digital positioning read-out.
Dick Vandermeyden
San Carlos, CA________________________________________________________________
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what can you do with a Bridgeport Mill?
I don’t know nothin about mills
thanks
bill
Dick Vandermeyden wrote:
Hello Andrew,
Beware of slippery slopes. I started out with a
Unimat, then graviated to a Maximat 8, followed
by a Maximat V-13. All made by Emco-Maier of
Austria. Somehow a Bridgeport mill found its way
into my shop together with a Hardinge HLVM
tool lathe.
Latest addition is a Miyano BNC-34S dual spindle
CNC turning center. Where will it all end? The machines
are expensive enough as they are, but the tooling
costs quickly surpass the machine’s cost. So it
gets expensive after a while. I am pretty sure that had
I not gotten this gear, but limited myself to drawings
and PO’s to machine shops only, I would have only
spend the interest on the principal currently invested.
And these tools lose value rapidly. In today’s market a
good Bridgeport mill can be had for about $500 and
that includes a decent digital positioning read-out.
Dick Vandermeyden
San Carlos, CA
Get your name as your email address.
Includes spam protection, 1GB storage, no ads and more
Only $1.99/ month - visit http://www.mysite.com/name today!
I have a 1964 FHC E-type with a Lucas 22D Distributor and recently
found pieces of a ‘‘nylon’’ bushing at the bottom. Anyone had
experience with this?
Thanks, Nick–
The original message included these comments:
In a message dated 9/13/04 8:34:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
–
QuickNK67
Arvada, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
This depends… when you say in the bottom… do you mean the bottom of
the body under the breakaway plate? or in the bottom of the neck
when you pulled out the bush. If its in the neck its part of a plastic
seal that is under the ball bearing to keep oil from coming up the shaft
and getting into the body past the bearing, this is probably more less
ok as long as you have some left. If not you could build it up with
permatex.
If its in the body it could be parts of several plastic bushes on the
break away plate which keep it riding flat against the lower half of the
break away plate, or it could be from the insulator bushing on the pin
on the side of the body where you hook up to the harness.
In either case you really need to have these bits.
I have the earlier Lucas 40617A (AKA DMBZ.6A) distributor on my car but
assume they are similar in construction.On mine the plastic feet on the breakaway plate were worn down and cracked and the insulator collar was also cracked and useless, Also the seal below the bearing was toast. The parts aren’t available from the usual suspects so Dick Vandermeyden and I are making new parts. (Thanks to Dick “The King of Lucas Distributors” BTW) Dick put the distributor into his sun Distributor machine last night and ran it through all the tests… from 500 RPM up to 3000 RPM and checked the Advance. What we found was that because the feet were worn down on the break away plate the screws which held the points in place were actually touching the lower plate and the entire unit was rocking back and forth when the distributor turned. This would let the dwell change as much as 10 Degrees if you didn’t steady it with your finger. Of course holding onto the plate also effects the reading. Anyway… the Distributor machine is a cool tool and worth checking out sometime if you get a chance… I know for a fact that you would never find this kind of problem without it because you couldn’t see the problem happening with the cap on. Anyway hope that helps Thanks bill Nick67 wrote:
I have a 1964 FHC E-type with a Lucas 22D Distributor and recently
found pieces of a ‘‘nylon’’ bushing at the bottom. Anyone had
experience with this?
Thanks, Nick
The original message included these comments:
In a message dated 9/13/04 8:34:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
–
QuickNK67
Arvada, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
The 22D has a nylon cup washer under the advance plate
that serves as a thrust bearing for downwards loads. It
also covers up the stake ends of the plate. Unlike the
DMBZ-6 family there is no roller bearing or shaft seal,
but just a bush.
Sounds like you nylon washer disintegrated. Needs to
be replaced.
Dick Vandermeyden
San Carlos, CA________________________________________________________________
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