[E-Type] Static time a pertronix

Is it possible to static time a pertronix? Is it not necessary? how
about using points to determine the dizzy position and swaping in
the pertronix?–
Peter Willetts 62 OTS, Laguna Niguel, Ca
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In reply to a message from PeteWilletts sent Sun 14 Sep 2014:

Pete, my understanding is it can’t be done. What I did when I
switched over to the Pertronix was put the engine at 10 degrees
BTDC per the damper and pointer, take off the distributor cap and
put a thin strip of tape on the subframe lined up with the rotor.
Then took out the 22D6, installed the pertronix and eyeballed the
lineup of the rotor per the tape. It was within a couple of degrees
when I checked with the timing light.


The original message included these comments:

Is it possible to static time a pertronix? Is it not necessary? how
about using points to determine the dizzy position and swaping in
the pertronix?


Nick Saltarelli '68 Cdn mkt E-type S1� OTS, '54 XK120SE OTS
Niagara, Ontario, Canada
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In reply to a message from N�ck sent Sun 14 Sep 2014:

Forgot. You also need to put a small piece of tape on the Pertronix
housing where #6 HT lead socket is positioned with the cap secured.
Doesn’t show in the photo. You take off the cap, install the
Pertronix and line up the rotor with the tape on the housing and
the tape on the frame.–
Nick Saltarelli '68 Cdn mkt E-type S1� OTS, '54 XK120SE OTS
Niagara, Ontario, Canada
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In reply to a message from PeteWilletts sent Sun 14 Sep 2014:

Static timing a Pertronix is done exactly the same way as
with points.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Sun 14 Sep 2014:

Thanks for the clarification, Ray. I’m relying on the archives. I
understood you can’t static time a Pertronix using the standard
procedure and leaving the ignition on sufficiently long will fry
it. Not so?–
The original message included these comments:

Static timing a Pertronix is done exactly the same way as
with points.


Nick Saltarelli '68 Cdn mkt E-type S1� OTS, '54 XK120SE OTS
Niagara, Ontario, Canada
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In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Sun 14 Sep 2014:

Isn’t a Pertronix just a switch Ray? I agree with you and
can’t see why it would be any different, there’s still the
problem of being on an adv mechanical advance curve with the
22D6 if you don’t statically time it.
Mike–
The original message included these comments:

Static timing a Pertronix is done exactly the same way as
with points.


Mike Moore 63 S1 OTS #878877
Morgan Hill, California, United States
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In reply to a message from N�ck sent Sun 14 Sep 2014:

Nick,

Setting static timing takes just a minute - not long enough
to do any harm.–
The original message included these comments:

Thanks for the clarification, Ray. I’m relying on the archives. I
understood you can’t static time a Pertronix using the standard
procedure and leaving the ignition on sufficiently long will fry
it. Not so?


Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Mike Moore sent Sun 14 Sep 2014:

Mike,

Yes, it’s just a Hall Effect switch. For all practical
purposes, it behaves exactly like a set of points.–
The original message included these comments:

Isn’t a Pertronix just a switch Ray? I agree with you and
can’t see why it would be any different, there’s still the
problem of being on an adv mechanical advance curve with the
22D6 if you don’t statically time it.
Mike


Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
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(if you are efficient and stay focused, don’t take a beer break)
LLo…, ummm, Joe

You carry a pistol when you don’t expect trouble. When you know the sh*ts going to hit the fan, then you lug something serious along.
Northworld Trilogy by David Drake----- Original Message -----
In reply to a message from Níck sent Sun 14 Sep 2014:

Nick,

Setting static timing takes just a minute - not long enough
to do any harm.


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In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Sun 14 Sep 2014:

Pete,
See my condenser thread below on static timing a distributor
with a Pertronixn Ignitor. It is very easy if you make a 12V
test lamp and connect it between the dizzy/coil and ground.
The lamp lights just as the rotor comes around to the front
plug. By positioning the harmonic damper you can get very
precise and repeatable timing, and with that you can dial it
in. You will also probably need to upgrade your coil,
Pertronix recommended their 40501 Flame Thrower for my '67
with negative ground.–
The original message included these comments:

Yes, it’s just a Hall Effect switch. For all practical
purposes, it behaves exactly like a set of points.


Jim Horvath, '67 OTS, 1E13653
San Jose/CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Jim Horvath sent Sun 14 Sep 2014:

Gotta love this forum.–
Nick Saltarelli '68 Cdn mkt E-type S1� OTS, '54 XK120SE OTS
Niagara, Ontario, Canada
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In reply to a message from N�ck sent Sun 14 Sep 2014:

Wow…i have to agree…what did we ever do before this…you guys are
just wonderful…pjw–
Peter Willetts 62 OTS, Laguna Niguel, Ca
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In reply to a message from PeteWilletts sent Sun 14 Sep 2014:

I can’t take credit for this one, the procedure is straight out of
the Bentley manual.–
The original message included these comments:

Wow…i have to agree…what did we ever do before this…you guys are
just wonderful…pjw


Jim Horvath, '67 OTS, 1E13653
San Jose/CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Jim Horvath sent Mon 15 Sep 2014:

I got a lot of help from Dick V, our late friend a few
months ago. I learned a lot about Lucas distributors, two
of the most important things were that static timing is
not just a quaint substitute for a timing light, but
necessary if you have mechanical advance which begins
below the idle speed. The second important thing I learned
from Dick is how important that commission number
(application number?) is on our old Lucas distributors. I
determined that my TR3 distributor, purchased rebuilt in
1986, is actually from a Metro truck and has very
different characteristics than does the correct one. I
found a correct TR3 distributor, confirmed by app number,
and now it runs better than it ever has. I also was able
to trouble shoot problems setting up my dual AFB Chrysler,
and was able to figure out that my problem was that as I
was trying to adjust idle richness, I was in a range where
the mech advance was advancing due to weak springs. A
properly rebuilt distributor allowed me to adjust the
carbs.–
The original message included these comments:

I can’t take credit for this one, the procedure is straight out of
the Bentley manual.


Mike Moore 63 S1 OTS #878877
Morgan Hill, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–


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