[E-Type] super easy radius arm removal technique

E-Type
1

Faced with stubborn old IRS radius arm mounts, I devised a
very simple method to remove them.

made a tool out of 1/4’’ x 4’’ scrap steel plate.

Angle ground a U shape that exactly matches the INNER STEEL
BUSH of the large IRS bush.

push the steel plate over the mount,from the front, so it is
resting on the bush.

This leaves a small space between the chassis leg, and the
steel plate tool.

gently hammer 2 small cold chisels either side, between tool
‘‘legs’’ and chassis leg.

The bush has nowhere else to go but down, as the steel tool
then bears down upon the inner steel bush ring.

It popped right off.

This idea is so simple and effective, surely someone else
has done it ?

took me 30min to make the tool, but the U shape must be
exact enough to clear the mounting post, but still ride on
the inner steel ring, you have about 1mm tolerance.

You need an old or new bush to make the drawing accurate
enough imo.

got the idea from rock-splitting, where gads are hammered in
patiently, and let the pressure & time do the work.

I can post a pic if anyone wants to see–
Tony
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2

In reply to a message from awg sent Fri 28 Jun 2013:

I for one would love to see a few pictures.–
The original message included these comments:

I can post a pic if anyone wants to see

–
Andrew B, 1967 S1.5 FHC, 1964 S1 OTS www.projectetype.com
Adelaide, Australia
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3

In reply to a message from abowie sent Fri 28 Jun 2013:

Tony, I looked at the photo in your gallery, but have you got
any pictures of the device in place. I am soon to start this
particular job.
Thanks,
Rob Herrick
65 S1 OTS–
The original message included these comments:

I for one would love to see a few pictures.

I can post a pic if anyone wants to see

–
Gas409
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4

In reply to a message from awg sent Fri 28 Jun 2013:

Good tip, I’ve done a lot of rock splitting myself but didn’t
think of this application of the principle…pic would be
great–
The original message included these comments:

Faced with stubborn old IRS radius arm mounts, I devised a
very simple method to remove them.
made a tool out of 1/4’’ x 4’’ scrap steel plate.
Angle ground a U shape that exactly matches the INNER STEEL
BUSH of the large IRS bush.
push the steel plate over the mount,from the front, so it is
resting on the bush.

–
Keith.P. Series2 Roadster
exmouth, United Kingdom
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5

In reply to a message from awg sent Fri 28 Jun 2013:

Oh, and just to add to my last post, I was out in a small
village called Kenn Ford off the M5 for the last three days
doing a tricky granite block removal and replacement in a
three hundred year old cottage.Only a few cottages with one
shop and on Thurs , F1 driver Alonso in his Red coveralls in a
Ferrari was threading his way through the lane…lost his way
no doubt !!!–
The original message included these comments:

Faced with stubborn old IRS radius arm mounts, I devised a
very simple method to remove them.
made a tool out of 1/4’’ x 4’’ scrap steel plate.
Angle ground a U shape that exactly matches the INNER STEEL
BUSH of the large IRS bush.

–
Keith.P. Series2 Roadster
exmouth, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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6

In reply to a message from awg sent Fri 28 Jun 2013:

Oh, and just to add to my last post, I was out in a small
village called Kenn Ford off the M5 for the last three days
doing a tricky granite block removal and replacement in a
three hundred year old cottage.Only a few cottages with one
shop and on Thurs , F1 driver Alonso in his Red coveralls in a
Ferrari was threading his way through the lane…lost his way
no doubt !!!–
The original message included these comments:

Faced with stubborn old IRS radius arm mounts, I devised a
very simple method to remove them.
made a tool out of 1/4’’ x 4’’ scrap steel plate.
Angle ground a U shape that exactly matches the INNER STEEL
BUSH of the large IRS bush.

–
Keith.P. Series2 Roadster
exmouth, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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7

In reply to a message from abowie sent Fri 28 Jun 2013:

http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1372484362&n4=

thats how simple (and almost embarrassingly crude) it is,
the radius is ~2’', but I stress to use an actual bush to
measure this, as if the metal tool radius is too wide, it
wont press on the inner steel lip of the big bush.

My first attempt was a smicky too tight, so it would not go
around the mounting post…30secs of grinding and it fit
perfect. I advise to finish the bottom of the U with a
rounded file…takes 5 minutes to make the entire radius
perfect.

To use could not be more simple, remove the safety strap (2
bolts)…loosen the 5/8’’ main bush retaining bolt
considerably, or remove.

Just slide the tool between the radius bush and chassis,
from the front, insert the cold chisels from the front, one
each side.

they will drive toward the rear of the car, forcing the tool
down, by bearing against the flat horizontal surface of the
chassis, just tap them with a hammer

I had thought to make a 2nd identical plate, so that all
upward force is not concentrated on the chassis
sheetmetal,in a small area, but there is only about 3/8’’
gap, which would not leave much space for the chisels.
(unless thinner metal is used to make them)
I now consider this to be not needed at all.

I couldnt believe how easy it worked, I was just trying it
to fit, and didnt even have to jack the car off the ground!

The cold chisels were a couple of small 4’’ items, about 3
hits each and it was off…and this one has been on for a
really long time, maybe even 45yrs.

I dont much like the idea of prying or air chisel at the
bottom, in case you damage the thread of the main bolt hole.

This is way easier.

sorry no pic of tool in place, but it is so easy it was just
begging to be thought of–
The original message included these comments:

I for one would love to see a few pictures.

–
Tony
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8

In reply to a message from awg sent Sat 29 Jun 2013:

Can you list a more accurate dimension measured from your
tool than approximately 2 inches for those of us who do not
have a spare bush handy? I am about to do this operation on
my 74 once I get the bolts out.–
The original message included these comments:

the radius is ~2’', but I stress to use an actual bush to
measure this, as if the metal tool radius is too wide, it
wont press on the inner steel lip of the big bush.

–
Phil W - 87XJ6, 86DD6, 85Sov, 74E, 67DQ450, 67DR450, 67Mk2
Arkansas, United States
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9

In reply to a message from Phil in Ar sent Sat 29 Jun 2013:

Yes, I will measure the max & min diameter of the bush inner
steel sleeve and post it. (I measured 2.09’’ on the tool)

Another good thing about doing it this way, is that no
stress is applied to the rubber, meaning you may choose to
re-use the bush,(as opposed to destructive methods)

below is a pic that visualizes the method of operation;

The view is from the top of this previously removed
bush,(used to make the pattern), shows the way that it bears
down on the inner steel ring, and those are the cold chisels
I used, in position.

As I made this crudely, with an 4’’ angle grinder, the radius
is not absolutely perfect.

The more accurately it is made, will mean force is exerted
on a greater % of the bush, which is desirable,
nevertheless, what I had seemed more than adequate, and
exerts massive force.

I will take a pic of the tool in full action when I get a
chance.

http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1372497796--
The original message included these comments:

Can you list a more accurate dimension measured from your
tool than approximately 2 inches for those of us who do not

–
Tony
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10

In reply to a message from Phil in Ar sent Sat 29 Jun 2013:

OD of inner steel ring in large IRS bush = 2.220’’ (56.40mm)

ID of inner steel ring in large IRS bush = 2.060’’ (52.35mm)

wall thickness of bush inner steel ring = 2mm

I would rough cut to 1’’ radius, then file finish

There is a gentle taper on the bush/mounting post, that
facilitates separation.

You want it snug around the mounting post.

You can always grind a little more off, but you cant stick
some on.

I noticed when searching the archives on a related IRS
topic, that ‘‘lady fingers’’ or handmade ‘‘pickle forks’’
separators were mentioned as being successful–
The original message included these comments:

Can you list a more accurate dimension measured from your
tool than approximately 2 inches for those of us who do not

–
Tony
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11

In reply to a message from awg sent Sat 29 Jun 2013:

The new bushings look like they have some relief cutouts in the
rubber portion 180 degrees apart…
Should these relief cutouts be perpendicular to the centerline of
the car or should they be parallel to the centerline of the car
when installed in the stablizer arm ???
Also can one ‘‘shrink’’ the new bushings buy freezing them in order
to make the installation easier or heat up the stablizer arm in the
area that the bushings fit ??
I do not have a press and I am trying to fit the new bushings
without removing the stablizer arms from the suspension.–
JV
Hamilton, NJ, United States
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12

In reply to a message from awg sent Sat 29 Jun 2013:

Thanks, Tony,

I saved your dimensions and photos in my 74’s service
records and will attempt to make myself one. Your method
seems easier than making a thicker ‘‘pickle fork’’ tool.–
The original message included these comments:

OD of inner steel ring in large IRS bush = 2.220’’ (56.40mm)
ID of inner steel ring in large IRS bush = 2.060’’ (52.35mm)
wall thickness of bush inner steel ring = 2mm
I noticed when searching the archives on a related IRS
topic, that ‘‘lady fingers’’ or handmade ‘‘pickle forks’’
separators were mentioned as being successful
Tony

–
Phil W - 87XJ6, 86DD6, 85Sov, 74E, 67DQ450, 67DR450, 67Mk2
Arkansas, United States
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13

In reply to a message from 67ETYPE sent Sun 30 Jun 2013:

JV,

The cutouts should be lined up parallel to the axis of the
car. See Figure 9, page K.10 of the Service Manual.

Shrinking the new bushings by freezing them will probably help
to make installation easier, but whether it will be enough to
avoid use of a press I can’t say.

-David–
The original message included these comments:

The new bushings look like they have some relief cutouts in the
rubber portion 180 degrees apart…
Should these relief cutouts be perpendicular to the centerline of
the car or should they be parallel to the centerline of the car
when installed in the stablizer arm ???

–
davidxk '56 XK-140 OTS, '69 XKE OTS , '98 XK8
Monterey CA, United States
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14

In reply to a message from davidxk sent Sun 30 Jun 2013:

In dry ice maybe, dropped into a heated radius arm, if
you’re very fast…

Pete–
The original message included these comments:

Shrinking the new bushings by freezing them will probably help
to make installation easier, but whether it will be enough to
avoid use of a press I can’t say.

–
1E75339 66 D, 885958 62 FHC,1R27190+1R28009 70FHCs, 1960 Mk9
Gaithersburg, Maryland, United States
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15

In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Sun 30 Jun 2013:

Thanks for the information on Bushing orientation and Shrink
fitting.
I think I will fashion a mechanical screw thread PRESS from some
1/4’’ thk. mild steel plate I have floating around my garage with a
7/16’’ or 1/2’’ bolt and nut to squeeze the bushings into the
stablizer arms…May not need to freeze or heat with this
method ??? Might use some light grease to help the press along!!!–
JV
Hamilton, NJ, United States
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16

In reply to a message from 67ETYPE sent Sun 30 Jun 2013:

I squeezed the first one in with my vise, after freezing
with soap and water.

The second one just ‘‘stopped’’ halfway in so I took it to a
shop and had it pressed in.

I would buy a press if I had any where to put it.–
The original message included these comments:

I think I will fashion a mechanical screw thread PRESS from some
1/4’’ thk. mild steel plate I have floating around my garage with a
7/16’’ or 1/2’’ bolt and nut to squeeze the bushings into the
stablizer arms…May not need to freeze or heat with this
method ??? Might use some light grease to help the press along!!!

–
I really got to put this back together…
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17

In reply to a message from Bill B 2 sent Fri 5 Jul 2013:

Since I was not going to reuse the bushes,

I put a big gear puller on it and wnt out for coffee, about
10 min. later it had popped off the arm by sheering the
rubber bush.

The inner metal piece resisted the pry bar…about a 2/10
sec hit with a blunt drift on the air hammer had that sleeve
bouncing across the floor.–
S1 XKE 1966. I really got to put this back together…
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18

In reply to a message from Gas409 sent Sat 29 Jun 2013:

Some further notes on radius arm removal.

Attached are pics of the tool in operation as requested, and
a template.

It was put to a stern test doing the other side on this
vehicle, which was very tight indeed, and had not had the
benefit of
regular soakings in penetrating oil that the first side had.

So much so that I had trouble with the safety strap bolts,
which need to be removed, the main bolt can be just loosened
and the strap
moved to one side.

Its best to attempt this with the radius arm parallel, as
there is only an approx 10mm gap between the inner bush and
body.
If the car is jacked with the wheel free, the arm droops at
an angle, which is no good, ramps may be ok
However, it is easy enough on the ground (although I did
need to jack it up to remove the lock wire first)

Realized I got a bit lucky that my dimensions just happened
to be right for the job, this second bush was very tight,
and the chisels needed driving almost
as far as they could.

You could try making 3 x 3/16’’ thick plates, with one ground
as a wedge, this may work even better.

Its important to get the radius of the main piece accurate
1.05’'…file finish to correct fit, so that the plate bears
on the inner ring as much as possible.

http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1373097631&n4=--
The original message included these comments:

Tony, I looked at the photo in your gallery, but have you got
any pictures of the device in place. I am soon to start this

–
Tony
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19

I would love to see a pic, if it’s still available

20

I seem to remember doing something similar a long time ago, but without any special tools.

I simply wedged a couple of parquet blocks between the radius arm and the bodywork somewhere near the big bush and then jacked the car at the IRS end of the radius arm. The radius arm was thus now a lever and the thin parquet was effectively the pivot point of that lever with the car weight now pushing on one side of the lever. The bushing simply popped out. It is not surprising when you consider the weight multiplication of how the centre point of the lever is arranged - much the same is happening here aswell.

kind regards
Marek