I’ve heard several posts regarding the swap. I just bought Wilwoods
and will be attempting this. The question is: Does the main body of
the front caliper actually bolt the the rear? Is it the complete
Front assembly WITH front pads as well? Are the front and rear pads
the same? Am I simply removing the inner workings of the front
calipers and putting them into the body of the rear calipers?
Can you tell I’m a bit confused??
Thanks for the clarification,
Alan–
New E-type owner who’s learning…
Austin, Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
All you want is the piston assy. The bracket from the front gets thrown
out.
I ordered new rear pads. It’s actually pretty straight forward, if you have
any other questions let me know.
Brandon B. Shriver
Hazleton, PA
“Trust God, and keep your powder dry” http://www.shriverperformance.com http://www.xk140e.tk/
'55 XK 140 MC-E OTS
S810189
'86 Jeep Wagoneer XJ limited
C===[:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::>----- Original Message -----
From: “Thrifty” astulberg@hotmail.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2002 7:39 PM
Subject: [E-Type] swapping the Front calipers to the rear…
I’ve heard several posts regarding the swap. I just bought Wilwoods
and will be attempting this. The question is: Does the main body of
the front caliper actually bolt the the rear? Is it the complete
Front assembly WITH front pads as well? Are the front and rear pads
the same? Am I simply removing the inner workings of the front
calipers and putting them into the body of the rear calipers?
Can you tell I’m a bit confused??
Thanks for the clarification,
Alan
New E-type owner who’s learning…
Austin, Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Does the main body of the front caliper actually bolt the the rear?_____________________________________
No, the center yokes in the front are quite different from the rears.
You simply unbolt the two cylinder pots from the each front yoke and put
them in place of the ones in the rear, then replumb the hydraulics.
I’m also swapping stock front to rear, Wilwoods on the front, and I just
read the article in Classic Jaguar World about the Lynx FHC they upgraded.
They mentioned that the marginal brake performance was not, in fact, caused
by the Rube Goldberg/Kelsey Hayes front master assembly, but more by
marginal piston size. In fact their upgrade kept the stock master cyl.
assembly. So, perhaps I can save time/money/work by NOT upgrading the
master. This option won’t allow brake tuning (front/rear bias) unless I
install a prop. valve, and even then, the practical range of adjustment may
be limited.
Having said all this, my question: Does anyone have any experience with
different front (soon to be rear) brake pad compounds? My guess is for this
application (street) I would want something organic and pretty soft.
Alan: When I did the swap, I just took the front calipers and bolted them to
the rear suspension in place of the original rear calipers. Put on the new
wilwoods up front and first time our, darn near ate the steering wheel.
Which by the way, I had just finished making real purty. The whole
conversion works well for me.
Bruce 65 OTS-----Original Message-----
From: Thrifty [mailto:astulberg@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2002 6:39 PM
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Subject: [E-Type] swapping the Front calipers to the rear…
I’ve heard several posts regarding the swap. I just bought Wilwoods
and will be attempting this. The question is: Does the main body of
the front caliper actually bolt the the rear? Is it the complete
Front assembly WITH front pads as well? Are the front and rear pads
the same? Am I simply removing the inner workings of the front
calipers and putting them into the body of the rear calipers?
Can you tell I’m a bit confused??
Thanks for the clarification,
Alan
New E-type owner who’s learning…
Austin, Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
FWIW, I’m running Wilwood front brakes and pads; XJ6 rears w/XJ6 pads,
and a stock Master Cylinder.
Works for me … street and track.
Cheers,
Chuck Anderson
'64 FHC
890250
Kevin Good & Cindi Mills wrote:>I’m also swapping stock front to rear, Wilwoods on the front, and I just
read the article in Classic Jaguar World about the Lynx FHC they upgraded.
They mentioned that the marginal brake performance was not, in fact, caused
by the Rube Goldberg/Kelsey Hayes front master assembly, but more by
marginal piston size. In fact their upgrade kept the stock master cyl.
assembly. So, perhaps I can save time/money/work by NOT upgrading the
master. This option won’t allow brake tuning (front/rear bias) unless I
install a prop. valve, and even then, the practical range of adjustment may
be limited.
Having said all this, my question: Does anyone have any experience with
different front (soon to be rear) brake pad compounds? My guess is for this
application (street) I would want something organic and pretty soft.
What marginal brake performance? I have the original 3.8
setup, and my brakes are just about the equal of my
'88 Porsche 911. I use XKs Unlimited carbon kevlar
pads, and they are incredible. Unfortunately they do
squeal a lot. A story you have heard, I think.
I still have the factory disks all around.
Jerry
Jerry Mouton “Laissez les bons temps rouler!”
Having said all this, my question: Does anyone have any experience with
different front (soon to be rear) brake pad compounds? My guess is for
this----- Original Message -----
From: “Kevin Good & Cindi Mills” KGood2@comcast.net
application (street) I would want something organic and pretty soft.
Jerry-
Sorry to be, ah, er, “uninformed”. I’m only repeating what I’ve heard and
read…and no, I have not ever even driven an e-type…yet…just spent
alot of quality time with the one in my garage. In any event, I’m pretty
committed to upgrading my system so any (stock) brake pad compound
information is much appreciated. Thanks.
KG>
What marginal brake performance? I have the original 3.8
setup, and my brakes are just about the equal of my
'88 Porsche 911. I use XKs Unlimited carbon kevlar
pads, and they are incredible. Unfortunately they do
squeal a lot. A story you have heard, I think.
I still have the factory disks all around.
Jerry
Jerry Mouton “Laissez les bons temps rouler!”
----- Original Message -----
From: “Kevin Good & Cindi Mills” KGood2@comcast.net
Having said all this, my question: Does anyone have any experience with
different front (soon to be rear) brake pad compounds? My guess is for
this
application (street) I would want something organic and pretty soft.
I’m raggin’ on ya a little… The brakes can be pretty weak
if they are not maintained. But seriously… I like mine
just fine!
I bet you can get carbon kevlar pads. They are super on
track, and amazingly good on the street (except for the
squealing). Racing pads usually need warming up before
they work well, not so these. Last time I used them (December
2001) the squeal was pretty much under control using
plastic stickums on the back.
They do wear the disks more than
stock pads, which means they are always clean and shiny, but
also that disks will need changing in a few years.
Jerry
Jerry Mouton “Laissez les bons temps rouler!”----- Original Message -----
From: “Kevin Good & Cindi Mills” kgood2@comcast.net
Jerry-
Sorry to be, ah, er, “uninformed”. I’m only repeating what I’ve heard and
read…and no, I have not ever even driven an e-type…yet…just spent
alot of quality time with the one in my garage. In any event, I’m pretty
committed to upgrading my system so any (stock) brake pad compound
information is much appreciated. Thanks.
In reply to a message from Jerry Mouton sent Tue 26 Nov 2002:
FWIW - I just put Wilwoods on mine, and I think it’s a big
improvement. In everyday driving, there’s really no difference,
but the change in maximum effort braking is considerable. With the
Dunlops, the pedal effort goes up almost exponentially, and you
eventually hit a wall more effort creates little or no more
braking. I’m not convinced it’s even possible to lock the front
wheels with the Dunlops. With the Wilwoods, you nail the pedal,
and the car stops NOW, and you can lock even the front wheels (with
surprisingly little effort)! The pedal effort is much more linear,
and braking is more predictable.
So, I kinda agree with Jerry in that the Dunlops are OK for
normal driving, and with Kevlar pads may be good for aggressive
driving. But, I certainly don’t think they compare to modern
brakes or Wilwoods.–
Ray Livingston
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
I really like the Wilwoods also. It made a major difference to have the
bellows hooked up though. Haven’t locked the fronts up yet, but at least it
STOPS right when I want it to.
Brandon B. Shriver
Hazleton, PA
“Trust God, and keep your powder dry” http://www.shriverperformance.com http://www.xk140e.tk/
'55 XK 140 MC-E OTS
S810189
'86 Jeep Wagoneer XJ limited
C===[:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::>----- Original Message -----
From: “Ray Livingston” rayl@atc.creative.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] swapping the Front calipers…pad compound question
In reply to a message from Jerry Mouton sent Tue 26 Nov 2002:
FWIW - I just put Wilwoods on mine, and I think it’s a big
improvement. In everyday driving, there’s really no difference,
but the change in maximum effort braking is considerable. With the
Dunlops, the pedal effort goes up almost exponentially, and you
eventually hit a wall more effort creates little or no more
braking. I’m not convinced it’s even possible to lock the front
wheels with the Dunlops. With the Wilwoods, you nail the pedal,
and the car stops NOW, and you can lock even the front wheels (with
surprisingly little effort)! The pedal effort is much more linear,
and braking is more predictable.
So, I kinda agree with Jerry in that the Dunlops are OK for
normal driving, and with Kevlar pads may be good for aggressive
driving. But, I certainly don’t think they compare to modern
brakes or Wilwoods.
Ray Livingston
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Why do you have to re plumb? Isn’t it the same setup, crossover bridge
pipe etc?
Bill B
At 09:05 PM 11/25/2002 -0600, you wrote:
Does the main body of the front caliper actually bolt the the rear?
No, the center yokes in the front are quite different from the rears.
You simply unbolt the two cylinder pots from the each front yoke and put
them in place of the ones in the rear, then replumb the hydraulics.
What did you do about the front brake lines? Is there still a join at the
bracket between the short caliper steel pipe and the beginning of the flex
hose? Or is it all one piece?
Bill B
At 08:45 PM 11/25/2002 -0500, you wrote:
All you want is the piston assy. The bracket from the front gets thrown
out.
I ordered new rear pads. It’s actually pretty straight forward, if you have
any other questions let me know.
Brandon B. Shriver
Hazleton, PA
“Trust God, and keep your powder dry” http://www.shriverperformance.com http://www.xk140e.tk/
'55 XK 140 MC-E OTS
S810189
'86 Jeep Wagoneer XJ limited
C===[:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::>
----- Original Message -----
From: “Thrifty” astulberg@hotmail.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2002 7:39 PM
Subject: [E-Type] swapping the Front calipers to the rear…
I’ve heard several posts regarding the swap. I just bought Wilwoods
and will be attempting this. The question is: Does the main body of
the front caliper actually bolt the the rear? Is it the complete
Front assembly WITH front pads as well? Are the front and rear pads
the same? Am I simply removing the inner workings of the front
calipers and putting them into the body of the rear calipers?
Can you tell I’m a bit confused??
Thanks for the clarification,
Alan
New E-type owner who’s learning…
Austin, Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Bill Bilotti sent Wed 27 Nov 2002:
Bill,
I think you’re asking how the Wilwood calipers are plumbed?
I’ve seen cars with Wilwoods that have one continuous hose from the
caliper all the way to the brake tube on the front frame. I’ve
seen others with a second very short flex hose from the end of the
existing hose to the caliper. On mine, I fabricated a new steel
line from the end of the existing hose to the caliper by using an
off-the-shelf brake line, a flaring tool, and that weird conical
nut from the original tube. Took about 5 minutes, cost about $3,
looks like it belongs there.–
The original message included these comments:
What did you do about the front brake lines? Is there still a join at the
bracket between the short caliper steel pipe and the beginning of the flex
hose? Or is it all one piece?
–
Ray Livingston
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Listers:
The first time I had to perform a quick stop in traffic on the freeway in my E I
decided at that moment (after I cleaned up the seat) that I would put more
effective brakes on the car. Wilwoods in the front and the old front calipers
on the back are excellent brakes.
Ron Rader
1967 FHC
Ray Livingston wrote:> In reply to a message from Jerry Mouton sent Tue 26 Nov 2002:
FWIW - I just put Wilwoods on mine, and I think it’s a big
improvement. In everyday driving, there’s really no difference,
but the change in maximum effort braking is considerable. With the
Dunlops, the pedal effort goes up almost exponentially, and you
eventually hit a wall more effort creates little or no more
braking. I’m not convinced it’s even possible to lock the front
wheels with the Dunlops. With the Wilwoods, you nail the pedal,
and the car stops NOW, and you can lock even the front wheels (with
surprisingly little effort)! The pedal effort is much more linear,
and braking is more predictable.
So, I kinda agree with Jerry in that the Dunlops are OK for
normal driving, and with Kevlar pads may be good for aggressive
driving. But, I certainly don’t think they compare to modern
brakes or Wilwoods.
Ray Livingston
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
The CJ kit is supplied with a very short goodridge hose to go between the
normal flex line and the Wilwood caliper.
The rear brakes hook up as stock.
Brandon B. Shriver
Hazleton, PA
“Trust God, and keep your powder dry” http://www.shriverperformance.com http://www.xk140e.tk/
'55 XK 140 MC-E OTS
S810189
'86 Jeep Wagoneer XJ limited
C===[:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::>----- Original Message -----
From: “Bill Bilotti” etype66s1@cox.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 8:29 PM
Subject: Question. e: [E-Type] swapping the Front calipers to the rear…
What did you do about the front brake lines? Is there still a join at the
bracket between the short caliper steel pipe and the beginning of the flex
hose? Or is it all one piece?
Bill B
At 08:45 PM 11/25/2002 -0500, you wrote:
All you want is the piston assy. The bracket from the front gets thrown
out.
I ordered new rear pads. It’s actually pretty straight forward, if you
have
any other questions let me know.
Brandon B. Shriver
Hazleton, PA
“Trust God, and keep your powder dry” http://www.shriverperformance.com http://www.xk140e.tk/
'55 XK 140 MC-E OTS
S810189
'86 Jeep Wagoneer XJ limited
C===[:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::>
----- Original Message -----
From: “Thrifty” astulberg@hotmail.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2002 7:39 PM
Subject: [E-Type] swapping the Front calipers to the rear…
I’ve heard several posts regarding the swap. I just bought Wilwoods
and will be attempting this. The question is: Does the main body of
the front caliper actually bolt the the rear? Is it the complete
Front assembly WITH front pads as well? Are the front and rear pads
the same? Am I simply removing the inner workings of the front
calipers and putting them into the body of the rear calipers?
Can you tell I’m a bit confused??
Thanks for the clarification,
Alan
New E-type owner who’s learning…
Austin, Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–