[E-Type] Temperature sensor

and would I entirely eliminate/plug the outlets in C37430 as a result?

Tony,
Source GM Emissions manual SD-140 which may shed so light on the GM sensor. I just ordered one so we’ll see…

Happy Trails,

Dick

well done Dick, I’ll be interested to see what turns up, living near Detroit I may have some connections that can help out if it proves hard to find…

best regards,

Tony Robinson

Where you take your vacuum from depends on how you want to use it.

For a brake servo, you want a connection that maximises vacuum level and availability (which will vary by throttle level, hence the one-way valve).

For a vacuum retard unit, you want a vacuum source which is highest at closed throttle and which drops away completely once there is any throttle opening.

For a vacuum advance unit, people love to debate as to whether they want to sample general manifold vacuum or ported vacuum. (Ported vacuum is manifold vacuum which is cut off with a closed throttle. This means it cuts in and cuts out differently to standard manifold vacuum at the first opening or closing of the throttle.)

Your best advice is to start a new thread for a new topic and state that your car is non standard. The closer your Weber setup is to a throttle body setup, the worse your vacuum signal will be. (Also expect a different level of vacuum if you have non standard camshafts - all of these things affect how an engine breathes.)

The c37430 had two functions. Not using C & D affects how long warmup takes as retarded engines generate more heat than more efficiently running engines. “Emissions” were important back in the day as all cars ran carburettors when these cars were new, but now that cars like this run very few miles per year, it is a moot point, especially since you’ve decimated the fuel economy by fitting Webers and thus scaled up emissions 150-200% of what they would have been from a 1974 factory standard car anyway.

kind regards
Marek

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Hi Tony,

Maybe down the road your assistance may be called upon. When I last wondered down this road of S3 Emissions it was quite an education. With the desired fuel injections system unable to meet US Federal Emissions Standards Jaguars back was rather pressed against the wall. It seems they reached out to GM UK for some assistance. Adapting GM systems proved to be the answer to passing Emissions Standards and fielding the S3 V12 on time. There are other GM products found on S3 E-types, all detailed in my upcoming book!

Thanks,

Happy Trails,

Dick

In a message dated 10/4/2022 12:48:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, noreply@jag-lovers.com writes:

Marek, thank you for this, it helps a lot,
greatly appreciate it

Tony

Hello Dick,
I am looking for some guidance with my 67 OTS. I have a temp gauge that simply has “C” and “H”. Do you know if there’s a temp gauge that I could substitute that has actual numerical temperature. If so, will a different temp sensor be needed?
Thanks,
Mark (formerly from 20th TASS)

I think @John_Walker did a test, to correlate the sweep to given temps.

Yes, I did.

Water Temperature, Graphics vs.Numbers - E-Type - Jag-lovers Forums

Hi Mark,

First you must determine whether to stay with an electric gauge or upgrade to a mechanical. Years past I used a setup whereby I could connect a mechanical gauge to verify what the Smiths gauge readings correlated to. I believe I used a Stewart-Warner mechanical gauge that was very accurate.
Under the fascia of the Smiths gauge you will find printed the gauge model number. Using a Smiths Gauge Test Set, I calibrated the unit on the bench. I then had a rig built up similar to that previously offered to test the gauge and sending unit. Once that was done to satisfaction then I felt pretty confident in what the gauge was telling me. Installing a more modern digital gauge in an analog designed system gains little, if anything, regarding accuracy!
There is a new Smiths mechanical gauge that replaces the OEM gauge but, IMHO, is much more reliable. Less components (no temp sender), less to fail!
So if you’re shooting for something that will give you piece-of-mind I would recommend upgrading to a mechanical gauge. You won’t look back!!!
Buy Smiths Mechanical Water Temperature Gauge from Competition Supplies - Worldwide Shipping Available Example of a mechanical gauge. Upgrading to a mechanical oil pressure gauge may also be considered.

Happy Trails,

Dick
“Hawk 01”

Thank you Dick!
That’s the info I was looking for.
We’re you in SEA flying O-1’s?
Regards,
Mark


I did this :wink:

1 Like

Hi Mark,

Glad to be of some help.
Yep, served in the Southeast Asian War Games '71-'72. “Catkiller 48 - Hue Phu Bai; Aloft 12 - Lam Son”. O-1, the only thing you could knock out was the engine or pilot. Loved flying it. Flew the last “combat” mission in RVN flying the Birddog for the Army. That and a $1 will get one a cup of coffee!!! Ha Ha.
Most of my Army flying was in OV-1’s and RU-21’s.
Thanks for your service.

Happy Trails,

Dick

In a message dated 11/15/2022 2:37:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, noreply@jag-lovers.com writes:

I was at DaNang 72-72. I was a jet engine tech on OV-10’s.
My dream was to have been an 0-1, O-2, or A1E pilot.
You guys saw the war from a different perspective for sure.
Thanks for hanging it all out there!
Mark

Hi Mark,

We had one platoon at Marble Mountain. Beautiful country from the air. I, too, have longed to own an O-1 but my 1947 Stinson 108-1 is just as much fun, just not 60-degrees of flaps!!! Ha Ha.
First thing: Always taught our back seaters TO LAND!!!
OV-10 was a perfect close air support aircraft for that environment as was the O-1. An experience most cannot even begin to imagine!

Happy Trails,

Dick

I was also in a air rescue squadron. The A1-E “Sandy” was crucial.
Flying a slow mover in that environment would be an experience that I can only imagine. Most people can’t even imagine it.