[E-Type] The first 437.8 miles

I am now nearing the first 500 miles in my 1961 3.8 ots all been
done in the last week. The weather has been fantastic here which is
unusual in itself, the last time I had a soft top, a TR7 in 1985 I
had it for 18 months and it rained for 19 months, 2 weeks either
side of having it.
It got that bad the guys at work begged me to get rid of it because
they wanted a couple of weeks holiday in the UK by the beach, you
might think that I’m joking, if only. I took so much stick I had to
get rid of it.
Anyway back to the E, took a lot of getting used to at first, it
has gone on the road with only my eye to line up the front
tracking, no camber/castor adjustment again only my eye, the
steering is very notchy, great in a straight line but a bit scary
when entering a corner. I have found the best way to navigate
around a corner is to point it generally in the right direction and
put the boot down, feels very steady then.

The engine is running great but a bit rich and the clutch keeps
going soft on me, every day before using it I have to pump it up, I
changed the slave cylinder last week which didn’t make any
difference, I did tighten all the unions yesterday and it was fine
today, so I’ll wait and see there.
Once the clutch is working OK then the Moss box is great, whines in
first but then as smooth as any car I have driven.

I have been taking it fairly easy this week and running the engine
in nicely I hope, a couple of 100 mile runs, a couple of short runs
24 miles to work and back and so on.
Even in the high 80’s and low 90’s F we have had this last week
there has been no sign of overheating, the Coolcat fan has worked
faultlessly and the Coolcat Otter type switch and the ali rad.
The temp sticks at the next notch above 70 F most of the time, I
also have red line water wetter in the system.

I now need to carry out a 500 mile service, oil filter, tighten the
head down and check over the whole suspension. I have electronic
ignition so no worries there.
Anything else worth looking at? is it best to take it easy up to
1000 miles gradually increasing the revs? a couple of times I got
the urge to let rip but held back don’t know how long I can fight
this urge :slight_smile:
One thing I have noticed is where is the oil in the dash pots
going? I have filled them up twice this week.

Driving it now is great, I drove my daily driver on Friday to work,
it handles great, has aircon everything you could want and
everything the E is not but the E has something on a totally
different plane, the looks you get from the 50 somethings in their
Mazda MX 5’s and other so called sports cars, the comments while
stopped at the traffic lights, everyone wants to chat about the
car. The noise from the exhaust when you pass through our town
which has narrow streets with high buildings, I always drive
through in second :slight_smile:
So I am now beginning to see what all the fuss is about. Had one
idiot hang out the window of his car while on the motorway taking
photo’s. :frowning:

Dave–
'61 OTS, I’ll do work for parts
Pershore, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Dave K sent Sun 17 Jul 2005:

Dave,
Glad to hear you’re warming up to the E’s charms. Believe me,
it just gets better from here on out.
Not much you really need to do other than what’s in the service
schedule. Just go around checking things to make sure there are no
loose bolts. You’re bound to find a couple.
As for the dashpots, you’re over-filling them. Get a
flashlight, and look down into the tops of the carbs with the
dashpots removed. About an inch or so down, you’ll see a ‘‘step’’ in
the bore. This is the part on the top of the piston that moves up
and down. The oil level will normally be about 1/2’’ below that
step. Basically, if you feel resistance when you put the dampers
back in, the oil is fine. If you over-fill, no harm done. The
excess will simply spill over and be sucked into the engine.
Hopefully you realize the same is basically true for the
radiator header tank. The water level, when cold, will be just
below the baffle. Anything above that will be puked out the
first time the engine gets hot. I only check mine about twice a
year, and just put in about a cup or two until I can see the level
is slightly above the baffle. It’ll spit that little bit out as
soon as I drive it. It hasn’t needed coolant added ever.
Have you driven it through a high-speed tunnel yet? That’s
really a hoot! Floor it in third gear at 60-70MPH in a tunnel
sometime! Wow!–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Sun 17 Jul 2005:

Ray,

There is a tunnel about 50 miles away as you to into Wales, funny I
should remember that :slight_smile:
thanks for the tip on carb dash pots, I saw somewhere on the list
about about overfilling the header tank, I did and every time the
car got hot it spilled all over the garage floor another problem to
sort out I thought buts its now reached its proper level.
One thing I did find was on the drivers side front balljoint I have
the two lock tabs missing, I took ages getting these just right and
still missed them.

Dave–
The original message included these comments:

As for the dashpots, you're over-filling them.  Get a 

flashlight, and look down into the tops of the carbs with the
dashpots removed. About an inch or so down, you’ll see a ‘‘step’’ in
the bore. This is the part on the top of the piston that moves up
and down. The oil level will normally be about 1/2’’ below that
step. Basically, if you feel resistance when you put the dampers
back in, the oil is fine. If you over-fill, no harm done. The
Hopefully you realize the same is basically true for the
radiator header tank. The water level, when cold, will be just
below the baffle. Anything above that will be puked out the
first time the engine gets hot. I only check mine about twice a


'61 OTS, I’ll do work for parts
Pershore, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Dave K sent Sun 17 Jul 2005:

Dave,

Another tip from the forum that I applied to my headertank is to
drill a hole in the baffle of 1/2’’ right under the filling cap. Now
I can check the coolantlevel. Just put your little finger in there
and as long as you feel coolant it�s OK. I�ve been filling way too
much coolant until a few months back I decided to check if it�s
true that it stays there when you stop filling up and guess what?
It stays right up there!

Willem.–
62 FHC
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Ebay item: 4563056331

Check out the shot of the engine bay. Someone was sure desperate to get
AC in this car.

Eric

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That’s pretty creative. I wonder how much vibration that setup creates?

Craig

Eric MaLossi wrote:

Ebay item: 4563056331

Check out the shot of the engine bay. Someone was sure desperate to get
AC in this car.

Eric

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In reply to a message from Dave K sent Sun 17 Jul 2005:

Dave,

Congratulations. Those first drives are priceless, aren’t they?

Not sure about your clutch, but I had a similar problem at first
and discovered that the pushrod into the slave had way too much
play. I had thought I had set it up properly, but I guess not. Now
I keep this adjusted so the play is as small as it can be without
the fork being constantly engaged. Even under ideal conditions, the
clutch pedal needs a good hard flooring to make clean changes.

The steering should feel very precise, except at low speeds where
it really needs manhandling. Cornering under power, as you
discovered, seems to work best and provide the most fun.

Sounds like you’re doing it right. Sad experience has convinced me
of the importance of resisting the urge to put the foot down too
hard during running-in. It sure is hard, though, because you can
feel that 3.8 engine just wants to rev. My new engine is just
passing 1,000 miles now, and I’m still trying to vary my RPM as
much as possible wihout exceeding 2,500 for extended periods, and
avoiding any lugging. Since 500 miles or so the engine has really
begun to feel more and more inclined to rev, but I intend to avoid
over-exuberance until 2,000 miles.

Have fun!

Tom Demergian
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
1962 FHC–
TVD
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In reply to a message from Eric MaLossi sent Mon 18 Jul 2005:

Wow. I guess this guy uses a different definition of ‘‘surface rust’’
than I do. I can see why he put the repainting on hold.

Tom Demergian
Madison, Wisconsin
1962 FHC–
TVD
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In reply to a message from Eric MaLossi sent Mon 18 Jul 2005:

Can someone tell me what those rectangular things are that I see
attached to the underside in the rear view, on either side of the
resonators?–
TVD
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There is no rust, or only surface rust?.. surely he jests…

Oh, and the A/C… third world engineering at its best…

Dave Waldman 61 OTSOn Jul 18, 2005, at 10:46 AM, Eric MaLossi wrote:

Ebay item: 4563056331

Check out the shot of the engine bay. Someone was sure desperate
to get
AC in this car.

Eric

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Thom Waldman wrote:

Oh, and the A/C… third world engineering at its best…

Actually, that’s the location and position of the “factory” York style
compressor. The original bracket is about 40 pounds of steel and welds…

A friend of mine dropped a rotary compressor into a '70 FHC he was
working on for a friend. It used the original 40 pound bracket with an
adaptor plate. I may have a photo of it somewhere. If so, I will post it.

Would be fun sometime to try to design something a bit more elegant, and
lighter! :wink:

George Cohn
'70 OTS

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George Cohn wrote:

A friend of mine dropped a rotary compressor into a '70 FHC he was
working on for a friend. It used the original 40 pound bracket with an
adaptor plate. I may have a photo of it somewhere. If so, I will
post it.

OK, here’s a quick and dirty web page showing the Sanden rotary
compressor and adapter bracket:

http://www.e-type-lovers.com/compressor.htm

George Cohn
'70 OTS

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Do they come from the factory polished like that?

Mike Frank

At 09:20 PM 7/19/2005, you wrote:

OK, here’s a quick and dirty web page showing the Sanden rotary compressor
and adapter bracket:

http://www.e-type-lovers.com/compressor.htm

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Mike Frank wrote:

Do they come from the factory polished like that?

Len Wheeler will have to chime in on that. He was the one doing the
conversion for a friend of his. I had just dropped by to help him sort
out a wiring problem.

George Cohn
'70 OTS

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Mike wrote: “Do they come from the factory polished like that? (referring to Sanden Compressors)”+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Mike: They can be bought polished or unpolished. A lot of hot rodders go for the polished look because so much of the engine bay hardware is chrome or polished… I went with the unpolished version since my engine compartment is essentially stock looking. See: http://jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1119800271

John Walker

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Mike: I should have added that I don’t think the factory does the polishing. I think the distributor or retailer does that. I’m surprised there isn’t a gold anodized version.

John Walker

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In reply to a message from Eric MaLossi sent Mon 18 Jul 2005:

Ginger, where’s Lithia, Fla??–
The original message included these comments:

Ebay item: 4563056331
Check out the shot of the engine bay. Someone was sure desperate to get
AC in this car.


Paul Wigton, keeper of Tweety!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from Walker, John JR SITI-ITCROA sent Wed 20 Jul 2005:

Hi John. Been meaning to ask for some time now: Other than
the ‘JR’, what does all that alphabet soup after your name mean??

Regards,

Rex–
1972 Willow Green 2+2 ‘KRMIT’
Pawcatuck, CT, United States
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No, I ordered it polished from the jobber. The cost difference was minimal
and I think it looks nicer.

Len----- Original Message -----
From: “George Cohn” gwcohn@simplybits.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 7:05 PM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Where there’s a will, …

Mike Frank wrote:

Do they come from the factory polished like that?

Len Wheeler will have to chime in on that. He was the one doing the
conversion for a friend of his. I had just dropped by to help him sort
out a wiring problem.

George Cohn
'70 OTS

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Rex wrote: “Hi John. Been meaning to ask for some time now: Other than
the ‘JR’, what does all that alphabet soup after your name mean??”++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

That’s my work e-mail address. SITI means Shell Information Technology
International, I am not sure exactly what ITCROA means but it signifies
that I am in contracts and procurement in Shell IT in the Americas.

John Walker

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