In reply to a message from Roarin’Tom sent Sat 8 Nov 2008:
Clem:
One of the beautiful things about a card board creeper.
Even when I bench work, I try to use a big pan to work in.
Those big round glvanized oil drain pans are great.
Smaller ones for smaller things.
Yeah, the magnet is a great idea, I have a couple on my tool board.
One is on the end of a cord, to drag around and find stuff.
Carl–
The original message included these comments:
Except that I feel like an idiot. While adjusting the throttle linkages I was stupid enough to drop the flat headed screw that goes in on top of the nipple. This in a friend’s paved brick driveway (we are just finishing renovations at our own house so I do not have a workshop right now but am really looking forward to having mine back). After four hours of searching we finally admitted defeat. So now it looks like I will have to buy the linkage anyway.
Moral of the story: only remove fiddly droppable bits in a garage with a flat, light coloured, clutter free floor so they can’t escape!
–
Carl Hutchins 1983 Jaguar XJ6 with LT1 and 1994 Jeep Grand
Walnut Creek, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Roarin’Tom sent Sat 8 Nov 2008:
I use one of those parts bowls with the big magnet in the
bottom. You just toss it in the general vicinity of the
bowl and as long as it’s ferrous it seems to end up in the bowl.
I think you’ll be happier long term with a new one anyway.
I’m not sure how long the rigid solution you came up with
would have worked. There’s a reason why they are spring loaded.–
Eric MaLossi 64 3.8 OTS
Austin,TX, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Eric MaLossi sent Sun 9 Nov 2008:
You are probably right Eric, though I can’t figure the
reason. I have one of those magnetic parts bowls - in
storage!!! Damn, I want my workshop back! :-)–
The original message included these comments:
I think you’ll be happier long term with a new one anyway.
I’m not sure how long the rigid solution you came up with
would have worked. There’s a reason why they are spring loaded.
I am having a problem with my 2 SU’s on my Mk 2 and hope one
knows what this repair would be.
The pictures show the throttle linkage. When the
accelerator pedal is depressed the lever pulls the linkage
down. In the first part of this movement there is some
deflection on the throttle shaft and the rear carb begins to
open but the front does not move for about 1 degree of
rotation. The play is at the clamp between the rear brass
colored shaft and the gray connector shaft. The result is
sluggish acceleration.
In reply to a message from Shell Yoelin sent Fri 3 Sep 2010:
Hi Shell,
my experience is limited to three SU’s and just year of
ownership but on the E Type the arms that connect to the shaft
can be loosened and rotated to eliminate just this problem.
It is the second step in carb setup. Just loosen one or both
arms and rotate them to eliminate the difference in opening
time.
Lester–
The original message included these comments:
rotation. The play is at the clamp between the rear brass
colored shaft and the gray connector shaft. The result is
sluggish acceleration.
Any ideas on how to repair this?
Thanks,
Shell
In reply to a message from saabguy sent Sun 5 Sep 2010:
Hi All,
I am getting some downward deflection of the rear throttle
shaft. I think the bushing is bad. I will call Joe Curto on
Tuesday as he rebuilt these carbs. I think this deflection
is causing the rear carb to open quicker than the front.
I am also getting some flooding in the front carb. We bent
the fork 3/16’’ past the recommended 7/16’’ and it still
floods. Another question for Joe Curto.
Lester, thanks for the comments!
Shell–
The original message included these comments:
can be loosened and rotated to eliminate just this problem.
It is the second step in carb setup. Just loosen one or both
arms and rotate them to eliminate the difference in opening
time.
Lester
rotation. The play is at the clamp between the rear brass
colored shaft and the gray connector shaft. The result is
sluggish acceleration.
Any ideas on how to repair this?
–
61 MK 2- 69 E FHC-97 XJR
La Grange Park, IL, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Shell Yoelin sent Sun 5 Sep 2010:
While it is certainly possible that a new carb would have
needle and seat problems it is more likely that the fuel pump
has too much pressure and overpowering the needle and seat.
Joe has a great reputation so I’m sure he’ll help.
Good luck,
Lester–
The original message included these comments:
I am getting some downward deflection of the rear throttle
shaft. I think the bushing is bad. I will call Joe Curto on
Tuesday as he rebuilt these carbs. I think this deflection
is causing the rear carb to open quicker than the front.
Shell
I’ve been tinkering with the throttle linkage on my '69 2+2
in an attempt to remove some slack in it and stiffness at
the pedal.
My car has triple SU carbs, which were fitted by a previous
owner. By operating the butterfly on the linkage on that
side of the car, the throttle open and close nicely.
However, at the pedal, there is an inch maybe of slack
before the mechanism starts to turn. Also, the pedal is
somewhat stiff - I noticed it has two springs on it, yet the
diagrams I’ve got show just one.
I’ve taken off the johnson rods and lubed them up and
refitted and adjusted them - I spent some time on the long
one that travels horizontally across the bulkhead getting
the length to what I felt was correct. I also spoke to John
Farrell (what a great guy, by the way - very knowledgeable -
and his parts list on PDF is a treasure trove!) who
suggested that maybe I needed new grommets, and he sent me a
couple with my order.
However, I can’t see any rubber grommets like the ones he
sent on my mechanism! Where do they go?! Does anyone have a
step-by-step diy for adjusting the linkage or could offer
some advice?
I can take some photos of how it’s setup now, if that would
help.
In reply to a message from jjbunn sent Fri 6 May 2011:
Julian the parts manual for your car (although a series 2 with 3
carbs) would be J 38 dated Jan. 1967 plate #10 item #21 noun ‘‘Bush’’
part number C24746. Without that bush you can tinker till you drop–
it is almost always the culprit! As Peter said–ya got to get a
parts and service manual but since you have a MOD Series 2 you will
need the J38 and the Series 2 IPL and if they used a 3.8 carb setup
at least that portion of the 3.8 parts.–
The original message included these comments:
somewhat stiff - I noticed it has two springs on it, yet the
diagrams I’ve got show just one.
However, I can’t see any rubber grommets like the ones he
sent on my mechanism! Where do they go?! Does anyone have a
step-by-step diy for adjusting the linkage or could offer
–
JCRC SE member JCNA Publications and Authenticity Desk
Columbia SC, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Julian, you need to know that the turnbuckle assy on the bulkhead
nearest the pedal, has adjustable eccentrics that help with static
position and full throttle position (to ensure no over-rotation I
assume)…anyway, that’s step one. Next, go to the support
brace that’s fixed to the bulkhead, where the linkage from the pedal
crosses the bulkhead…hopefully you’ll get where I’m
at…that brace has slots and can be adjusted up and down to
remove play, as does the bracket immediately below it (the bracket
where the end of the throttle rod locates into some kind of rubber
type bush…all these brackets/braces can be adjusted to
remove play.
Hope this helps and doesn’t confuse you…:-)On Fri, May 6, 2011 at 2:14 PM, jjbunn julian.bunn@caltech.edu wrote:
I’ve been tinkering with the throttle linkage on my '69 2+2
in an attempt to remove some slack in it and stiffness at
the pedal.
My car has triple SU carbs, which were fitted by a previous
owner. By operating the butterfly on the linkage on that
side of the car, the throttle open and close nicely.
However, at the pedal, there is an inch maybe of slack
before the mechanism starts to turn. Also, the pedal is
somewhat stiff - I noticed it has two springs on it, yet the
diagrams I’ve got show just one.
I’ve taken off the johnson rods and lubed them up and
refitted and adjusted them - I spent some time on the long
one that travels horizontally across the bulkhead getting
the length to what I felt was correct. I also spoke to John
Farrell (what a great guy, by the way - very knowledgeable -
and his parts list on PDF is a treasure trove!) who
suggested that maybe I needed new grommets, and he sent me a
couple with my order.
However, I can’t see any rubber grommets like the ones he
sent on my mechanism! Where do they go?! Does anyone have a
step-by-step diy for adjusting the linkage or could offer
some advice?
I can take some photos of how it’s setup now, if that would
help.
In reply to a message from jjbunn sent Fri 6 May 2011:
Another source of slop in the system is the ball end, on the part
of the linkage that goes from the manifold-mounted bit, which
connetcts to long crosswise ‘‘johnson rod.’’ That ball can become
loose after, say, FIFTY years of operation.
I took mine off just a few weeks ago and welded it up on the
backside (opposite the ball) and that made a HUUUUGE difference in
the slop factor.
Here is the training video that fully explains how the triple SU
linkage works.
When you reinstall your johnson rod, be VERY careful to properly
align the spurving bearings in relation to the panametric fam.>;-)
–
The original message included these comments:
My car has triple SU carbs, which were fitted by a previous
I’ve taken off the johnson rods and lubed them up and
refitted and adjusted them - I spent some time on the long
one that travels horizontally across the bulkhead getting
–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Fri 6 May 2011:
Julian,
READ THIS:
I just adjusted all my linkage and never got my carbs to fully open
up. I had one inch of slop in the pedal if I tugged at the top end
and when depressing the pedal, it seemed to engage, then slip some
through the motion.
I undid the link to connect the pedal to the down rod. Remove the
cross bolt from the aluminum pedal housing and the down rod will
fall out. The round portion of the down rod and the link in the
engine bay have a 1/2 raised edges. They mate together, kind of a
straight ying/yang joint. This is where the pedal slop is. Over
the years, the bolt must have loosened and the thousands of cycles
wore this mating joint.
I super glued a small wedge to take up the wear, reassembled the
levers and cross bolt, torque it completely tight. WOW, no play at
all and the carbs fully open up. No amount of adjusting the
johnson rod or ball joints came close to eliminating this much
pedal slop. I think if you really torque the cross bolt, it will
stop the pedal slop since it rotates as a unit, but the shim fixed
it permanently. The bushing in the aluminum housing was still ok.–
The original message included these comments:
In reply to a message from jjbunn sent Fri 6 May 2011:
Another source of slop in the system is the ball end, on the part
of the linkage that goes from the manifold-mounted bit, which
connetcts to long crosswise ‘‘johnson rod.’’ That ball can become
loose after, say, FIFTY years of operation.
–
scott64FHC
danville, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from scott64FHC sent Fri 6 May 2011:
Are you sure that this is wear? Mine has some ‘‘slop’’ between the
two levers, but I assumed that this is deliberate. When I
reassembled my pedal box the ‘‘slop’’ was gone, so I thought I’d done
something wrong. I’d ‘‘overtightened’’ the shaft nut, so I slackened
it off to get the slop back. I don’t think I have an inch of free
play, but I’m still inclined to believe that there is supposed to
be some free play there to ensure that the throttle is
fully ‘‘relaxed’’ when the pedal is released. Hopefully, someone else
can pitch in with the ‘‘correct’’ answer.
-David–
The original message included these comments:
I undid the link to connect the pedal to the down rod. Remove the
cross bolt from the aluminum pedal housing and the down rod will
fall out. The round portion of the down rod and the link in the
engine bay have a 1/2 raised edges. They mate together, kind of a
straight ying/yang joint. This is where the pedal slop is. Over
the years, the bolt must have loosened and the thousands of cycles
wore this mating joint.
–
davidxk '56 XK-140 OTS, '69 XKE OTS , '98 XK8
Monterey CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from davidxk sent Fri 6 May 2011:
David,
My sloppy pedal would actually bottom out on the bulkhead flat. I
would never get enough travel to fully open the carbs. And, it
swept past the vinyl covering on the tunnel carpet and it wanted to
wedge and stick in that corner. This is not a ‘correct’ position
for WOT. After torquing correctly. There is still free play since
it has many more ball joints, but the pedal travel now sweeps
nicely in the vinyl section. Additionally, the pedal is now more
outward to me and the heal to toe position is much better. I have
a size 13 shoe so I pretty much cover the brake and gas pedal
already…–
The original message included these comments:
Are you sure that this is wear? Mine has some ‘‘slop’’ between the
two levers, but I assumed that this is deliberate. When I
reassembled my pedal box the ‘‘slop’’ was gone, so I thought I’d done
something wrong. I’d ‘‘overtightened’’ the shaft nut, so I slackened
it off to get the slop back. I don’t think I have an inch of free
play, but I’m still inclined to believe that there is supposed to
be some free play there to ensure that the throttle is
fully ‘‘relaxed’’ when the pedal is released. Hopefully, someone else
can pitch in with the ‘‘correct’’ answer.
-David
–
scott64FHC
danville, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from davidxk sent Fri 6 May 2011:
Another thought,
The free play in that joint allowed me to move the tip of the pedal
in and out. Mine had just over one inch of dead movement. Given
the racing heritage, do you think the engineers designed the
ability for the driver to position the pedal to his liking, then be
able to torque it down?–
The original message included these comments:
Are you sure that this is wear? Mine has some ‘‘slop’’ between the
two levers, but I assumed that this is deliberate. When I
reassembled my pedal box the ‘‘slop’’ was gone, so I thought I’d done
something wrong. I’d ‘‘overtightened’’ the shaft nut, so I slackened
it off to get the slop back. I don’t think I have an inch of free
play, but I’m still inclined to believe that there is supposed to
–
scott64FHC
danville, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
G’Day Julian,
A couple of important checks, first look at the angled levers that change
the direction of the rods, a source of slack is wear on the pivot
bars/tubes, you can sleeve the bars or the inside of the tubes and
turn/drill the other bit to get a smooth slip on fit without slop. Second
look at the angled flat bit of the pivot levers and make sure that the arms
are flat ie turn in the same plane, if one arm is bent a bit (by a DPO) you
will lose some motion. Also look at all the clip joints to the bars that
connect the rod from the firewall to the throttle levers, sometimes the
right angle bent ends of the rods wear an oval rather than round hole.
Solution is drill the hole round and put a sleeve over the short bits of rod
that go in these holes. If all the slop points are removed then the only
error left is the gap from the pedal to first rod or slop in the hinge/pivot
of pedal itself. I had to “fix” several of these loss of motion points in
mine before getting pedal to actually achieve wide open butterflies (triple
SU is standard ex factory in Oz - also RHD and suspended pedal rather than
floor mount here). Try to adjust rod lengths so that you are getting
maximum throw, if the angle piece is further to one side (rod) than the
other you can lose some travel, rather like the piston near TDC not moving
much for same crank turn compared to when it is half way up the cylinder.
You may have a different problem to me of course.
Cheers, John B. 67 2+2 in Oz______________________________________________________
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In reply to a message from john bennett sent Sat 7 May 2011:
Thanks for all the excellent advice.
I found that the grommet on the bracket on the firewall was
missing (why I couldn’t see it!) and instead a DPO had used
a small length of rubber tubing, which had worn and chaffed
on one side.
I replaced the grommet, and lined everything up. It’s
certainly better, but I’m still unhappy. The pedal travel in
the cockpit is rather small compared with other cars I’ve
worked on.
Julian, try adjusting those brackets I mentioned…It will likely
take out a lot of the slop.On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 7:15 PM, jjbunn julian.bunn@caltech.edu wrote:
In reply to a message from john bennett sent Sat 7 May 2011:
Thanks for all the excellent advice.
I found that the grommet on the bracket on the firewall was
missing (why I couldn’t see it!) and instead a DPO had used
a small length of rubber tubing, which had worn and chaffed
on one side.
I replaced the grommet, and lined everything up. It’s
certainly better, but I’m still unhappy. The pedal travel in
the cockpit is rather small compared with other cars I’ve
worked on.
In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Sat 7 May 2011:
I had a similar problem with my throttle linkage on my 69 OTS,
which was upgraded to the triple SUs as well. I posted some
info on my website, which may be helpful along with the other
info already posted in this thread
