Now we have confirmation… I was on 2 wheels 
1 Like
Question regarding fuel lines. Are you able to use the factory hard line to the engine bay on the Series 3 cars?
And did any of you get round to fitting a surge tank? Would like to see your solutions.
I added FI to my SIII and used the factory lines. I didn’t really feel that a surge tank was necessary since the fuel pickup in the tank goes right into the sump and the tank IS baffled. I eliminated the factory pump and plumbed directly from the pickup, to the filter, then to the line going forward. My FI pump is located beneath the battery close to where the fuel line from the back ends. It seems that fuel just flows out from the tank at that location, at least it does with half a tank full. This has worked flawlessly for over 15 years. YMMV 
You can use the factory hard lines going in and out. The high pressure engine bay end final flexible joints to the fuel rail needs to withstand 45psi rather than 3psi.
The surge tank pros and cons plus solutions are listed higher up in this thread and there are pictures already posted.
kind regards
Marek
2 Likes
This is very interesting and goes against all the typically specifications for fitting an EFI pump. What pump are you using that has lasted this long in this configuration? Have you had any issues at low fuel levels? My guess is that this would work as long as the system is primed but may have trouble starting the car with a low fuel level?
Thanks a lot. Saves me a lot of trouble making new hard lines. I was going to figure out a way to pressurize the system with air to see if it would hold. Time saved! I’m trying to get something up and running pretty quickly so I will use barb and EFI fuel hose and clamps in the engine bay for now.
I want to duplicate your in-tank system. Its hard to tell from your photo, but did you braze or weld on a smaller tube for the pump outlet to the factory fuel tank pickup?
Here is the Land Rover assembly I’m going to buy https://www.ebay.com/itm/184756772366
Are you all using EV1 style injectors? I was considering using 19lb EV6 style injectors from the Jeep 4.0L. But i’m unsure if the EFI manifolds will hold these properly.
Another very trick thing is to use either the heat exchanger off of an XJ6, or wrap the cold side of the AC with copper pipe that sends the fuel back to the tank.
This all, of course, assumes you have AC.
Mazda Cosmos had a terrible fuel vapor lock issue, and a friend of mine did the latter solution: after about a half hour of driving, he’d end up with frost on the outside of the fuel tank…vapor lock solved!
I am using the 95/96 intake manifolds and EV14 injectors. 0 280 158 193 specifically. I chose these due to their superior dispersion characteristics over the earlier models from Bosch. This particular injector has a straight(not angled) narrow conical output stream which is exactly what you need for the V12 head. When searching for injectors I found that many of the EV14 had been developed for much more modern engines and featured things like angled output or twin streams to suit 3 or 4 valve heads. I chose this injector because it is relatively easy to find(used on a LOT of Ford engines) and is capable of 325 CC/min, whis allows me to accommodate E85 in a 6.4L engine with just a bit of room to spare. The EV14s are known for their small pulse width stability which translates a smooth idle.
Highly recommended!
1 Like
One more thing I forgot to mention earlier is that these are high impedance, which means that you don’t have to worry about high current injector drivers, something that can give a lot of problems failure-wise. Reliability is a good thing!
Thats awesome. Thanks for the tip. I have some rails made for EV6 but if it doesn’t work out I’ll try EV14.
As far as I know there is no difference in the injector bosses across all the EFI V12s since they are all factory EV1 style. If EV14s are working for you thats a good sign that the manifold is at least compatible enough for them to seal. Could you post a closeup of how your injectors sit in the manifold?
Today I’m going to relocate my coil and ballast resistor to the front of the engine like the early cars had and test fit my manifolds and fuel rails.
I have a 6L sitting on a stand waiting patiently for me to get to. Will have to chat about your build at some point. But for now I’m using my original pre-HE 5.3L. And will run fuel only as a first step. I’ve designed a trigger wheel that will press fit on the back of an original pre-HE E-type V12 damper. I’ve sent it out for machining and should get it back in a couple of weeks. But thats more for a parallel project to run Coil-On-Plug. I like the look better than EDIS coil packs.
Sorry, but there is a big difference in the early vs late intake manifolds. Here is a pic of my intake manifold showing the injector bosses for the EV14s.
I think the EV6 may fit these, but no guarantee. EV12s should fit no problem. I had a 1975 XJS motor years ago for parts and as I recall it’s injectors were of a clamp down style using large rubber donuts. Those injectors would never work on the latest manifolds. I think the changeover occurred sometime in the 90’s, not sure of the exact year though.
Here is the only pic I could find with the injectors in place, although it’s not a close up.
HTH
Very interesting. And you didn’t modify these? Originally the 6L cars used EV1 body injectors like everything else.
This is my arrangement so far.
Picture of Jeep 4L injectors in the rails. Modern Bosch throttle position sensor in place of the Lucas sensor.
3/8" barb on the inlet, 5/16" on the outlet and 5/8" joining the two.
The last four years of v12 production had the manifold/injector changes. 1992-1994 had the badged inlet manifolds which had low impedance injectors bolted in under a square fuel rail. 1995-1996 had the same basic manifolds but with high impedance injectors mounted the same way and NipponDenso ECU with coilpacks. Cars earlier to that had a much higher mounted fuel rail and the injectors sitting under short rubber fuel rails. The manifolds were not badged. (The very early preHE cars had twin circular loop fuel rails.)
kind regards
Marek
Vikram, Please provide more info on the sensor you are using for Throttle position?
FYI for all, I found that the TPS from a 97 BMW E30 318i worked for me. Part numbers are any of the following: 13631726591, Other P/Ns, BMW 13631726591, Land Rover 1726591, Hella 008476111, TPS4129, TH317, 5S5022, 1580864.
I used Bosch 280122001. Used in Kia, Volvo and Ferrari
I’ve seen some people screw it into the original bracket but I just went straight with a couple of washers to space it. Example below is not my picture
@MarekH how did you seal the bottom of the pump to the hose? Did you a glue a 3/8" hose onto the outlet? Also have you had an issues with this arrangement with low fuel levels?
Use a hose clip if need be.
There are no issues with low fuel levels - the pickup is in the sump exactly like with the carburettored cars. The only “gotcha” is you must use fuel hose which is ethanol safe.
kind regards
Marek
I was concerned about low fuel issues in your arrangement not because of the position of the pump but because of how well the inlet seals. These EFI pumps have an 11mm inlet port with no way of sealing anything onto it because it was not necessary when the pump sits at the bottom of the tank.
Now that the pump is like 8inches above the sump, the inlet needs to be air tight. A typically submersible 3/8 rubber hose is too thick to sit flush against the pump body because of all the small protrusions that are close to the inlet. It would need to be epoxyed in place.
Are you saying you just pushed a 3/8 hose onto it without anything to hold it in place? Thats cool it works.
How are you running power to the fuel pump? Are you using the original pump’s power line or did you run new power?
I’m considering making a small piece of steel tube to press fit to the bottom and then weld that to a support
You can press-fit something onto the bottom of the pump in the same way as the original donor FI pump’s screen was fitted.
The original thick white wire can supply the fuel pump if you fuse it. In my case, I have it intercepted it with an inertia switch at the A-post and used a relay in the boot which is controlled by the ECU.
If you need wiring to go to the boot, you have potentially three spare wires already in the loom before having to add more. Red and green/purple are duplicated on both sides of the loom and black/white on the left side is a legacy item for an OTS as there is no heated rear window to heat.
The are plenty of pictures of my setup in the old website photo albums at https://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1381505777 and look at “my photo albums”
kind regards
Marek
1 Like