[E-Type] Weight shock

Hi Lloydie…
yes it is a bit of a surprise…
My low drag coupe weighted in at 2500 lbs at the race track that is an all
ali
car with two seats ( also ali) and stereo cd and a/c… figured we could
drop 300 lbs to race but that was it…
kind regards
tony

VICARAGE JAGUAR - Worldwide specialist in Jaguar Racing and Restoration
Anthony Parkinson -Owner
Web site: http://www.vicarage-jaguar.com
tel 305 866 9511 fax 305 866 5738
e-mail: @Anthony_Parkinson
CAMELOT: The Personal Care Company
http://www.camelothaircare.com

Tony:

     I calculate about 2200-2300lbs for my Lightweight, so you are just 

about right on. I know how to go lower, but there’s really no point, as no
vintage sanctioning body will allow you to run an E-Type under 2200lbs.

Regards,
Mike

At 09:33 PM 7/30/01, you wrote:>Hi Lloydie…

yes it is a bit of a surprise…
My low drag coupe weighted in at 2500 lbs at the race track that is an all
ali

Well this is a fine kettle of fish. I’m making up a pair of links to hold
my suspension up in preparation for torsion bar installation and am a bit
confused. My lower control arms foul against the bottom of the frame at
about 16" distance from the shock mount. The rear knuckle of the arm is
catching on the frame pad by about 1/32-1/16". I’m a bit confused as to why
this should be. I’d be tempted to blame it on the new frame except that
both sides have the identical problem, and I only replaced one frame.

At first I thought that I must have mixed up the spacer washer arrangement
on the arm, but after double checking it appears to be as the books show
(spacer washer on either side of the rear bush and just one in the front of
the forward bush). I couldn’t have mixed up the washers cause they really
only go on one way (the outer washers wouldn’t fit if you were to try to put
them on the inside)

The truly odd thing to me is that even were it to clear the frame, the same
inner knuckle would foul against the lower inner frame bolt within 1/2" of
travel which still seems that it would leave you a bit short of the 17
13/16" distance mark. What am I missing here? The only other thing that I
changed is the replacement of rubber bushings with poly ones. Is possible
the outer lips on these are marginally thicker than the old rubber ones,
could possibly be skewing things?

After closer examination it appears that the front of the lower control arm
hangs down farther that the rear. I’m a bit surprised at that cause the
mounts looked symmetrical to me. Is there some specific orientation of the
mounts that is necessary for it to line up properly? The blocks have the
same part #'s on both sides so it’s not that I have them mixed up side to
side, but is it might I have them flip-flopped?

Thanks
Eric MaLossi
64 3.8 OTS

Eric

I just did nine with the regular rubber bushes and did not have this
problem. I’m not sure I can help, but will send a photo off line. I do
remember thinking the front A-arm was awful close to the frame, but have had
no problems.

Bob----- Original Message -----
From: “Eric MaLossi” emalossi@flash.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: July 30, 2001 9:50 PM
Subject: [E-Type] torsion bar adjustable links no-go

Well this is a fine kettle of fish. I’m making up a pair of links to hold
my suspension up in preparation for torsion bar installation and am a bit
confused. My lower control arms foul against the bottom of the frame at
about 16" distance from the shock mount. The rear knuckle of the arm is
catching on the frame pad by about 1/32-1/16". I’m a bit confused as to
why
this should be. I’d be tempted to blame it on the new frame except that
both sides have the identical problem, and I only replaced one frame.

At first I thought that I must have mixed up the spacer washer arrangement
on the arm, but after double checking it appears to be as the books show
(spacer washer on either side of the rear bush and just one in the front
of
the forward bush). I couldn’t have mixed up the washers cause they really
only go on one way (the outer washers wouldn’t fit if you were to try to
put
them on the inside)

The truly odd thing to me is that even were it to clear the frame, the
same
inner knuckle would foul against the lower inner frame bolt within 1/2" of
travel which still seems that it would leave you a bit short of the 17
13/16" distance mark. What am I missing here? The only other thing that
I
changed is the replacement of rubber bushings with poly ones. Is possible
the outer lips on these are marginally thicker than the old rubber ones,
could possibly be skewing things?

After closer examination it appears that the front of the lower control
arm
hangs down farther that the rear. I’m a bit surprised at that cause the
mounts looked symmetrical to me. Is there some specific orientation of
the
mounts that is necessary for it to line up properly? The blocks have the
same part #'s on both sides so it’s not that I have them mixed up side to
side, but is it might I have them flip-flopped?

Thanks
Eric MaLossi
64 3.8 OTS

Finally got that problem resolved thank to some off-line help. That’ll
teach me to follow my notes more carefully. I had the outer lower control
arm flipped side for side hence the cut-out wasn’t facing the frame. There
goes another couple of hours…

Eric MaLossi
64 3.8 OTS

Eric,
If you can send me a couple of digital pics off-list, I will try to help. I
had no trouble putting mine together, although it has been a few months. I
can also send you a couple pics of mine.
It sounds like you must have something installed wrong.
Paul Ward> ----- Original Message -----

From: “Eric MaLossi” emalossi@flash.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: July 30, 2001 9:50 PM
Subject: [E-Type] torsion bar adjustable links no-go

Well this is a fine kettle of fish. I’m making up a pair of links to
hold
my suspension up in preparation for torsion bar installation and am a
bit
confused. My lower control arms foul against the bottom of the frame at
about 16" distance from the shock mount.


Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/

Paul,
I figured this bit out last week, thanks. I had the front bar of the lower
control arms switched sidewise. Unfortunately switching them didn’t quite
solve the problem. On the side where I installed a new frame it is still
contacting, although now by only about a 64th. Quite a pain really. I
haven’t decided what to do about it.

A few strokes of a file to the side of the control arm where it’s already
cut away would in all likelihood solve it, but I just had them plated, grrr.
Also I’m not crazy about the idea of removing it again. I may just estimate
the t-bar setting. I have an adjustable reaction plate so it should more
than be able to compensate. With the shock in, it never even comes close to
reaching this depth anyway.

Eric M

Eric,
If you can send me a couple of digital pics off-list, I will try to help. I
had no trouble putting mine together, although it has been a few months. I
can also send you a couple pics of mine.
It sounds like you must have something installed wrong.
Paul Ward