[E-Type] Wire wheels -- balancing

An ‘on car’ balancer measures the imbalance generated by everything that’s revolving, that includes the disc and hub assy so moving it to the rear defeats the object.
With an ‘off car’ balancer the most crucial part is how the wheel is mounted on the balancer.
When the tyre fitter has balanced the wheel to 0-0 on both planes, ask him to loosen the mounting clamp and turn the wheel to another position, reclamp and re-spin the balancer. If the wheel has been mounted correctly the reading will still show 0-0. If not the balancer will display an imbalance.

My tire guy asked me if I wanted weights on the outside. My response to do whatever is required to achieve the best balance. I have weights on the outside [edit:] and inside.

A rotating wheel and tyre will have an imbalance on both left and right planes, by inputting the correct dimensions of this assembly into the machine and also how far the inner face is from the mounting plate the balancer then works out the optimum weight distribution to alleviate any dynamic imbalance without creating a further unwanted inbalance in the ‘static’ plane. Positioning both weights on the inner rim is ok as long as the balance machine has been informed beforehand that that is where they will be going, but the outermost weight will usually require at least double to achieve the same effect. Also, on modern wide alloy wheels using stick on weights this can cause further problems because of the length.
The balancer wants the weights placing at EXACTLY the position it indicates, spreading a 6 or 8 inch strip across that position defeats the object.
It is the imbalance to either or both planes that causes wheel wobble, and it is the overall ‘static’ imbalance that causes wheel bounce or thump. Although most imbalance can only be felt around the 50mph mark it is present all the time. A 60grm imbalance at 70mph is equivalent to a 14lb lump hammer pounding the suspension hundreds of times a second.

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There are a couple of companies in the UK which sell balancing cones which you can take along to any tyre shop and they will allow them to balance wire wheels:

Available here: http://www.fossewayperformance.co.uk/wire-wheel-balancing-kit/

and here:

I am surprised they are not available in the US.


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Mixed results have been reported with this, but it worked well for me:



Used with new Vreds, tubeless, Dayton wires.

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Shouldn’t be: even back in the day, it was the rare shop that had cones to use.

Now that it’s been 40+ years since any sizable number of cars with Rudge-Whiworth hubs graced these shores…

Yes, they are available in the USofA: https://xks.com/i-23897038-wire-wheel-balancing-cones-37-1066.html

These are the ones I bought. I got the set that twill do both the 52mm jag wheels as well as 42mm for my TR4. If i ever get that far w the TR lol.

Is this a custom made tool, or is there a way to obtain this?

I had this tool custom made. Used an XKE front hub and then had an aluminum mount adaptor made to fit the balancer. Dayton has fixed their wire wheels so that the outside can use a standard internal cone setup that most shops use. Anything earlier such as the tube style ones or Dunlop wire wheels do not work so well.

Thanks!! I just put some Daytons on. Are you saying that all I really need is the inside cone and then I should be able to use a standard cone on the outer portion? The reason I ask is because I have the special kit that I bought from Fosseway and the outer “hat” that simulates the “knock-off” is split and in need of replacement. If I no longer need that to properly balance the wheel, I should be fine without it as the inner cone that simulates the E-type hub is just fine.

Same thing happened to my kit so I returned it and fabricated the same set up that Dick has.

If you have bought late model Daytons, they should have directions for balancing. If not, check with Dayton. The splinded hub/knockoff adaptor works either way.

Dayton didn’t really have any answers for me. I literally just purchased the Dayton wire wheels from Moss, so they should be machined on the outer portion of the wheel. Since my female outer cone is damaged, my intention moving forward (please correct me if I’m wrong) is to use the male inner cone from my Fosseway kit (while the wheel itself is NOT pressed against the balancer, and the cone supports or centers it) and a standard male cone for the outer portion. This should center the wheel properly based on all of the information that has been presented thus far. Unless of course, I could somehow obtain your perfect setup. That would be amazing! Years ago, when I first did this, I had a custom metal tool made from the UK, but the balancer spindle was much smaller. I wish I had the records from that transaction…

Here are instructions from Dayton. https://www.daytonwirewheels.com/docs/balancinginstructionsforspline.pdf

I’ve had my Daytons since '98 and they’ve always been balanced on standard dynamic balancers with standard cones, any tire shop can do it. You don’t need any special fittings or cones.

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