I’ve installed the system on my car and it starts/runs fine but I have no tach. Anyone installed the EDIS on a car with pulse style tach and had this problem? Would like to know how to test to determine whether the tach is faulty or some problem in the way I connected things up…seemed pretty straightforward but you never know!.
FYI, I was using MSD on the car before the resto and that tach had been modified to work with that. It wont’t work with the EDIS so can’t use it. The replacement standard tach was purchased on Ebay I think many years ago so don’t know if it’s good/bad.
I sent a message to Ray L yesterday and haven’t heard back from him so don’t know if he got it/out of pocket for a time etc.
Morning Les,
When I installed Ray’s EDIS I had to buy an inexpensive ‘adapter’ that fixed the problem, I’ll check and see if I have made notes on where I bought it from but I suspect your going to have to do likewise. I’ll get my notes out and get back to you after I finish my coffee
Cheers,
Lynn
Les,
This is what I had to have Ray incorporate into the wiring harness on mine, I was one of Ray’s ‘Beta’ testers by the way, and this fixed my tach problem on my '68. https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/tach-adapter/
This of course assumes that your Tach is good.
Cheers,
Lynn
I also have Ray’s EDIS, but my car is a Series 1, so uses a tach generator. Shortly after installing the EDIS I started having tach gen problems (it was falling apart mechanically, nothing to do with the EDIS). I sent the tach to Mike Eck and he installed a module in the tach that operates from the tach signal from the EDIS Megajolt module. Works great. Accurate, steady and so far (2/3 years?) reliable.
I had a similar problem after spending big bucks on a tach mod. to accommodate a pointless ignition modification. So I talked to MOMA, and they installed “more modern” guts to the tach and it works fine now.
LLoyd
Thanks Lynn. So how/where do you connect the device to the tach…currently it uses a small loop to generate a magnetic field that the innerds picks up on…do you leave the “coil” of wire in place on the back of the tach or remove it and connect the tach to the device, on the insode of the tach?
Lynn, I assume your original tach was of the same pulse type as mine…do you know whether Ray modified his kit after your beta test setup, and so negating the need for the device your car requires? It seems like he might have as seeing Craig’s response, Ray told him his tach should work fine, and apparently it did/has??
I guess that was the point I was trying to make. I too have the “standard” tach (i.e. the one that came originally in the car) and have no problem. If your car was supplied with the same tach, might be your issue is with the Ebay tach?
Hi Les,
It has been quite awhile since I installed mine so my memory of it has become hazy with time. Quite sure that my tach was similar to yours and I purchased the unit from Autosports and ray put it in line with the tach. IIRC it simply amplifies the signal for our tachs so the tach lead otherwise remains the same with the loop on the back. I do not think this was a common issue and so I don’t believe Ray made any subsequent modifications to the harness but I could be wrong. Hopefully Ray will chime in and help us clarify this.
Cheers,
Lynn
I see your point Craig, and yes, I’m thinking it is indeed the tach. Just tested for voltage on each of the three leads at the large three position connector (two white and one green lead) while the car was running and all have, well, charging voltage on them…still no reading on the tach.
Anyone know if the white wire loop is in any way, polarized, as in, if you push the loop over one way it wont work due to field being sensitive to current direction?
The EDIS kit should work fine with a properly functioning stock inductive tach, so my guess is your E-Bay tach has a problem. If so, my advice would be to have Mike Eck modify it to connect directly to the MegaJolt as someone mentioned they had done with theirs. That seems to me by far the simplest, and best solution to your problem. Any other option will cost more, and almost certainly require adding the AutoSportLabs diode board to your EDIS wiring harness.
Thanks Craig,
I will review with a more critical eye tomorrow, when the Makes Mark has worn off, but again, thanks for the information. I do think I have a bad tach but want to make sure, as far as possible, before sending off to Mike.
I would like to open this topic up again since I have just discovered that my tach, while operating, is reading too high. I assume this is due to the EDIS system sending out twice the number of spark impulses and therefore my tach reading too many impulses? But I’m not sure yet.
I received these instructions from Ray L. about three years ago: EDIS_TACH_BOARD_INSTALL_b.pdf (234.7 KB)
and it is just now occurring to me that these instructions might be pertinent.
Questions:
Am I on the right track to understanding? Does the tach board install referred to by Lynn above resolve the issue of the tach reading too high?
Is the most current recommendation given above by >[quote=“Ray_Livingston, post:16, topic:351062”]
“to have Mike Eck modify it to connect directly to the MegaJolt.”
[/quote]
now the better course of action to resolve this?
No, the EDIS sends the same number of pulses as the stock ignition. It yours is reading high, then problem is the tach itself. It is internally adjustable, over a limited range, and it is normal for the calibration to shift over time, due primarily to the capacitor in the timing circuit changing value with age.
