The electric cooling fan on my 1963 Mk2 3.4L burned out in a cloud of smoke. Fortunately only 200 yards from home! The fan was 20+ years old. Anyone got any recommendations for a new, thermostatically controlled pusher fan? Prices I’ve looked at vary wildly.
I’ve been using a Hayden electric cooling pusher fan which is thermostatically controlled via an adjustable potentiometer, relay, and fuse, Been working fine on my 3,8S for 30 years with no problem. Hayden brand is pretty common in the USA,. Here is a link to some of the control equipment.
Where are you located?
I found a low profile SPAL fan which seemed to most the most air of any brand / format. It’s 16" and fits on the front of the radiator. I control it with a switch and use it without a mechanical fan.
Thanks for the info. I’m not using a mechanical fan either. The fan I had was thermostatically controlled, with a manual override.
I have a 1967 Mark 2 3.4. 22 years ago I replaced the radiator with a ‘recirculating core’ radiator. I live in a warm Southern California climate, and I’ve had no need to install any sort of fan to keep my engine running below 70 degrees C at all times.
Not sure what a ‘recirculating core’ radiator is, Can you explain?
It is a radiator with many more fins than standard. This type of radiator is used on small vehicles at air cargo terminals which ride around for hours at a time at slow speeds lifting and moving cargo pallets. Ask any radiator shop about them, they should know.
U.K., so Hayden not an option.
Never heard of this.
Thanks to all. Got a replacement from SNG Barrett. Now will have fun installing it!
John QUICK question, been using the SAME Hayden adjustable for decades. My new ron davis rad has a spal fan without glasses on, I need to use a 40 amp fuse instead of the 35 amp fuse .
I blows out at randon times. I read the more modern fans WHICH DO RUN ALOT HIGHER SPEED, makes this so. Ive had no problems and read the same online. Any thoughts?
Can’t speak to your Ron Davis radiator and Spal fan but my Hayden fan came with a modern style fuse marked 25. Has never blown and I doubt the fan draws this amperage as the ammeter does not show anywhere near this draw… Where are you located?
I went to 30 amp as the fan says from 25 all is fine
I don’t know if this helps, but here goes.
We retained the original fan and fitted a 9” Spal pusher fan as an auxiliary, with an inline hose thermostat. Directly wired (with 10 amp fuse) meaning it can run on after ignition off. I believe the key element is the fan must be ‘continuously rated’ which many fans are not. The Spal is so rated and also has a very low draw in amperage terms - below 5 amps if I recall.
We purchased from https://www.proalloy.co.uk/
SPAL Slimline 9" Blower Cooling Fan
M22 Fan Switch Adaptor Pipe - 38mm dia x 100mm Long M22 Adaptor and Switch
SPAL Fan Tie Kit
The benefits for UK driving are in hurry up and wait situations we have in traffic - in general conditions the auxiliary never kicks in, but hot day high speed run then stuck in traffic, or stop/start traffic it is there.
I spent my life working with electrical equipment and whenever a fuse protected a device with coils in it (a transformer or a motor are the obvious ones, and don’t forget you have coils in a relay) it had to be a ‘slow blow’ or a ‘timed’ fuse because there is a rush of current at the moment of connection, before it settles down to draw the specified current. A standard fuse would blow instantly.
However, having said that, unless they are all slow blow by default the fuses you put in a 13 A plug don’t seem to have that problem.
So not a solution, just my little contribution to the debate.