OK,OK , OK, , I’ve been looking through the archives on this and Greg’s story.
I received an electric cooling fan (as a gift) it’s the Spal model same as on James Love’s web site. This thing is heavy. It came with some springs , rubber pads and zip ties. I was wondering if I could adapt the spider mount of the original Bosch fan or do I need to remove and adapt the fan shroud some somehow?
To tell you the truth since I removed the original exhaust down pipe cats and installed the new exhaust, the electric fan doesn’t even kick in anymore. Go figure. Stays 1/4” below N on temp gauge even after I drove it like I stole it!
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So, it don’t ned fin, therefore, do not fx t.
enjppy it instead.
CHJ
Are you saying that just by removing cats cools your engine or what?
removing the cats will let de freer exhaust
and if any excess unburnt fuel goes through the engine, it will flow to the back, instead of burning on the hot catalyzer honeycomb
The cat converters hold a TON of heat. The heat (especially from the upper cats) migrates upward right into the engine bay. More so, I suppose, in low speed driving.
IMO the cooler running is more due to removing engine bay heat than freeing-up the exhaust flow.
Cheers
DD
It‘s not running richer - cooler because of false lambda information due to cat removal? Then it‘ll mostly be less heat produced by the cats and retained in the bay.
I wouldn’t think so. Not much, anyway.
The primary temp input comes from coolant temperature, yes, but once you’re over 170ºF or so, all the cold enrichment is done and the CTS is pretty much out of the picture.
The Air Temp Sensor, which is just a trimmer, works on air coming into the snorkel towards the front of the engine bay. Probably wouldn’t make much difference but, in any case, it wouldn’t be false information.
Cheers
DD
Mind you its not summer here anymore, but since before I’ve changed the exhaust (removed the cats) I would always drive the car home to the garage, crack the hood open once I got into my neighbourhood to vent off some heat soak, at which point the electric fan would start to fire up after a good run.
The heat gauge would creep up just below the “N” .Now that the exhaust has been changed I drive this car a lot differently, by really putting my foot into it. Totally different sound (growl) I guess but really puts a smile on your face. I feel like I’ve unleashed a big cat thats been asleep for 30 years.
That all being said when the car warms up it goes to approx. 1/4” below the “N”. The electric fan has not come on since. I do believe the exhaust is letting the heat out of the engine a lot better.
I wish I had taken a picture of the cats when they were laying on the exhaust shop floor. They looked disgusting and very restrictive to say the least.
Like I say arguably the best upgrade I ever did. Now I have a new electric fan. Which I still might install as next summers project.
Hm, completely forgot about the temperature sensor, besides the lambda. Anyways it should still be able to reach and maintain thermostat temperature which means it should stabilize at a certain temperature so something is fishy.
If it was undercooled before it would have overheated under load or at idle. If it’s now overcooled it wouldn’t stabilize at ¼ below what it used to run at. So sender, gauge, thermostat breaking down?