Simple; get ignition power to the blue leads’ terminal at the dip relay on the left fender. A relay must be in that circuit.
Possible sources for ignition power, pretty much anything that’s powered by the ignition protection relay and always on with the ignition. Green white or slate roughly.
Possible source for the lighting power to relay: grab off the + terminal on the bulkhead. Fuse comes after the dip relay.
Agree. I abandoned because of adding a circuit and leaving two dead ones. Making the electrickery even more complex…
My lump has a bank of relays/As I did the electrics, I became enamored of relays!!!
I got lucky and found/ordered the exact same low beam circuit and Hella connectors/fuse holder online.
https://www.autokatalogen.se/wls/view_article_info.do?articleIdNo=5551&nodeIdNo=1519962
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Sweden likely use the ‘fog’ light switch setting, David - no high beam with light switch to ‘fog’. This is done with a jump wire from light switch to relay low beam wires. This probably complicates an alarm system wiring, as this feature is retained while using the low beam for alarm purposes.
It’s things like this that also complicates removal/disabling an alarm system - or indeed fiddling with it…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
That may work as well!
Before installing the relay I’d still check if there is a short (very low resistance from a wire that shouldn’t have such very low resistance)
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Two things, Aristides, the fuse is there to protect the wires - and if the part shorts or draws excessive current; it is already defective. The relay coils usually operates on mA currents…
And, secondly, the fuse may also serve other circuits - which use higher currents…?
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
If you look at the photos Frank it’s clear the it serves only the relay coil.
It seems to have a Gray colour fuse which is 2A, as it should be.
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I take your word for it, Aristides, can’t see the fuse/wire connections - however, the ‘burn’ seems to be where the two white wires are poorly(?) joined…?
As an aside; white is the ign ‘on’ circuit for the car electrics - it may be something else in the alarm system layout?
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Hi all, just wanted to provide an update: I removed the faulty low beam circuit and restored the original wiring (and disconnected alarm from it). The car now runs fine! Thanks for all the help so far!
I have ordered a new low beam circuit and will consider if to install it when it arrives.
Now on to the next task: fine-tuning the drive and reverse idle settings…
1 Like
Great!
What drive and reverse settings? Hot idle should be around 700 rpm in P. Cold a few hundred higher. It will drop in gear unless you come up with a modification.
P cold is 1.000. D idles around 600-700, but drops down to around 500, runs uneven and almost stalls when hot. R goes down to 450-500 and will stall if left in R for longer time, especially when cold.
500 hot in gear is absolutely fine. 700 hot in P and N. Your idle speeds are okay.
Maybe it is running lean or it’s a spark issue…
Mine idled in gear and steering at full lock. 250 rpm or so.
May be the ignition amplifier if it cuts under ~500 rpm.
I guess it would be best to start testing if it runs lean before moving on to troubleshooting ignition/sparks etc?
Any advice on where to start?
Push in the flow meter flap while it runs. Little goes a long way, I believe that if the rpm goes up significantly it’s definitely lean. Better method is to turn down the enrichment screw so less air bypasses the flap, but count your turns (5mm hex or so in the recess, top, corner of afm). It will always run better when too rich, but may no longer pass emissions.
Thanks David, I’ll give it a try tomorrow!
Sure, I would try the idle bypass first, top left corner of the afm as you see it standing by the fender. Clockwise is richer.
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Have you actually tried adjusting the idle, Andreas?
Spec hot idle is 800 rpms, but ‘well used’ engine may benefit with more. The idle is set by the idle screw, 5,5 mmm hex, well hidden on the air distribution block. Also; the throttle gap must be set to 0,002", and clean - or the range of the idle screw may be insufficient. To work on an idle problem without first addressing these factors is, frankly, pointless…
Your AAV seems to work as it should, but it should give a cold idle of some 1200 -1400 rpms, but as the engine warms up the AAV closes - causing the idle to drop. And fully hot, the engine should idle at set hot idle, 800 - and your hot idle seems set at much lower; to 500 or less. At which the engine doesn’t have much idle power…
This doesn’t mean there are no other problems, but they cannot be assessed unless the normal idle setting procedures are carried out…
All work on idle adjustments should be done in ‘P’ (or ‘N’) - rpms in gear is not interesting at this stage. That the rpms slows as the engine warms up is a function of less air and the fact that mixture is deliberately leaned out when hot - and unless the engine gets enough air and fuel; it will slow and stop…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
To be clear, there is a sticker on the underside of the bonnet specifying rpm.
If it’s 700 (+/- 50 is the best you can do, 700 was for my market) in neutral and when hot, it’s good.
The much earlier engines wanted 600, and 700 for manual gearboxes because these would chatter at 600. They didn’t die during parking maneuvers, below 500.
Idle speed is adjusted on the air distribution block. I got at it with a torx bit hammered in, and a wrench/…
Idle richness is adjusted on the AFM as I described. Changing one may affect the other.
Or just that screw to get drivability. High enough to not stall in gear. Low enough not to creep in gear.
Whatever Rpm’s allow that. When I used that on carb cars, I prefered to live with a bit of creep if needed to avoid a stall. .