Electric windows Mk10

So the Mk10 continues to resist reasonable use, the driver’s side electric motor letting the smoke out of it’s wires yesterday.

I just posted in the classifieds looking for one, and I’m looking for experience or ideas about a repair. The armature windings and one of the field windings appear cooked. BTW, the procedure in the service manual does not have all the steps for removing the electric mechanism and motor! It’s a b&^*^h.

Does anyone know of a reasonable rewinding service if I can’t find one? I’m also wondering about finding a substitute - I already see that XJ doesn’t work. It would take a somewhat shallow rectangular 3 wire motor with forward and reverse and a D shaft about 1/4". The other three motors function, and I can transplant one to the driver’s window until I find another. The other alternative would be to convert to wind-ups.

I once inquired on this forum about this

Got an answer back saying it could not be done, sounded like the respondent had tried

maybe he just didnt try hard enough…I think the doorshell has the same part num
(worth checking)

I think he was trying to convert manual to electric

Why not try contacting Jaguar Heaven in Stockton California who run a Jaguar recycling yard. They may well have one, especially if front and rear are all the same.

Or try one of these units:



I’ve have some response on the originals, so I think it’s going to work out, but those are good suggestions. I was surprised at how affordable the aftermarket system is. If I have ongoing trouble, I may consider converting. I believe it will be simplest to refurbish the original system at this point. I’m currently trying to track down new seals for the ventilators and window beltlines while I’m at it. Parts numbers search doesn’t give hopeful results with the usual suppliers, but I’m waiting to hear from David Manners who often has stuff the others don’t.

I have done most of my seals and have some info…it isnt easy !

I will call out and describe each section

glass to window seal ( stops rain running into doors…VERY important

Scotts Old Auto Rubber Australia

inner window felt seal (I have never bothered to replace one on any Jag)

rubber seal that goes on door Ebay (and other suppliers…100% correct is better than cutting and gluing corners)

rubber on body 3 pieces, one is about 12ft long, goes in channel in body which is often rusted out…Scotts Auto Rubber…try other suppliers, this seal is important

front quarter window seal after much debate about all MKX seals being a poor fit,
I modified MK2 items, and this worked well, it needs 3 cut & glue joins though
Shortly after that, a poster said a MKX item fitted his fine

rear windscreen seal Scotts auto rubber

front windscreen seal (I have an NOS original)

rear quarter window seal…have not found a source yet, mine work

The Top one, preventing warer to enter the door along the glass, is important but tve one from Australia is a bit too thin. I.e. it wint go against the glass. But it is close, and on some doirs it might. It depends on the shape of gge door onto which ghe chrome seal holder is attached.

Hi Peder,

Mine are 10mm wide

The window gaps vary from 8-10mm

It is possible, (and necessary see FSM) to adjust the distance the window is away from door frame using shims (which some should already be present)…its VERY easy for these to drop out if the door/window is dismantled

Its not easy to do, but what should be done, as the rubber doesnt want to be too close to the glass either

If you have a gap of more than 10mm glass to seal runner surface, imo, you are missing some shims

Thanks guys. There sure is a lot of work in these cars. Everything I look at on this poor girl has been messed with in an unkind way - new distress showing up at every look. Today it was the bad accelerator pedal hinge, previously bodged shift linkage adjustment, and newly discovered rust in the front floorboard, mostly from the chronically leaking heater core.
My door rubbers are good. I did get front and rear windscreen seals from David Manners - have not yet installed so can’t comment on fit. Manners lists a rear door ventilator seal BD17072, but I’m not sure it’s correct - says it’s a mk2 part. I think it’s not formed to the window shape. Have an enquiry in and will follow-up with you.

I am snowed-in right now, a bit unusual here in Western Washington, but I’m looking forward to a bit more time on the road when it’s clear and dry.

This is what David Manners said about those Mk 10 seal parts.

“BD19459 and BD19460 did go over to BD19459/60* which was a pair of them but sadly the supplier has stopped making them so we are unable to supply.”
That was the front window ventilators, R and L

“BD17072 and BD17073 go over to BD17072* which can be used for both applications, it may need trimming to fit. £6.57 each in stock.”
These are supposed to be rear window ventilator seals, but are linear stock I believe.

“BD17282 goes over to BD20010/1* £2.87 each in stock.
BD21073 goes over to BD21073/3* £6.66 each in stock.”
These are the rubber outer glass seals - seems a good price if they fit.

We cant get BD23193 any longer sadly."
This is the scuttle seal. The Scott’s Old Rubber site lists a seal, but appears to be linear goods.

Tony, I am interested to know what you did to make the Mk2 seals work for the Mk10.

Your wish is my command

MKX-420G Front QTR Vent seals - Saloons - Jag-lovers Forums (jag-lovers.com)

you have to cut a section out of the horizontal area, and near the top corner (that one is the tricky one)

I would give myself a 9/10 for this job,

compared to the crumbled original there before, its a 19/10

imo, it would be possible to do this job and make it indetectible

The MK2 seals were about 1/3rd the price

not a hard job by zenith standards either

Most excellent. You’ve already done the heavy lifting on this one, and I’ll follow in your footsteps. My job will be simplified by the door panel being off (what was left of it - another thing for the action list).

I also want to report to you that I had a nice drive in the Mk10 today - starting to get a little confidence that I won’t be left by the roadside. Made it about 15 miles, but didn’t get too far from home, as I was testing my linkage adjustment for the transmission selector. Finally got it where I wanted (bracket had been bent by PO so wouldn’t allow proper adjustment, and they must have been frustrated because they left everything barely threaded together with locking nuts loose). What it important here is that I got kickdown on the BW8! I don’t think it had anything to do with the actual adjustment, but more likely due to the absence of floor mat and padding. I don’t know if they are all like this one, but I had to jam the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor to get kickdown, but then it worked consistently. It’s possible that it benefited from TransX and exercise, but I think the pedal travel is most likely what made the difference. So, if you haven’t tried taking out the padding beneath your pedal, you might give it a go. Also, I did note in the manual, that it must be above 30mph to kick down. Now, my transmission still doesn’t select D1 or L (acts like D2), but that is something I can live with.

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Interesting you got kickdown, I will have another try when I get around to it

Adjusting the in engine bay rod ups the trans pressure, but also moves the manual valve actuation, so maybe the 2 work against each other

there is 2 other cable adjustments that affect whether you can engage D1, a bracket under the car (not really adjustable, but mine got bent), but 2 x 15/16" nuts under the dash on a bracket

make sure you chock your car if you adjust this, it WILL unexpectedly allow the cable to relax the park pawl, with predictable results if you are on a slope

Yes, You explained the engine bay adjustment very well before, and the manual is quite specific. Again, I don’t think I changed anything that should affect the pressures. I’m going to leave my engine bay adjustment alone for now, as I have good shift points. The selector adjustment I have now allows the P position to just engage the parking pawl, so it has maximum travel towards the L side of the spectrum, where it does find those detents. I think the lack of D1 or L is most likely a valve body issue. I do plan to change the transmission fluid and adjust the bands while I’m at it after I get the windows and heater box sorted. The fluid looks good and was reported as “fresh”, but I think it’s probably pretty old.

I see a new old stock window motor on ebay. It’s kinda pricey, but thought I’d mention it.

Yes, I saw that (gasp). Thank you.