Engine and transmission removal

My 62 MK2 that was a recent purchase from an older family member is all there and a rust free Southern California car. Now for the troubles, it leaks, I mean it really leaks. So I’m going to remove the engine and transmission, it’s an automatic. My question is, do I remove them both as a unit or individually? I’m in a regular two car garage. I have an engine hoist too. This is my first Jaguar and it’s a beautiful machine.

Hello and welcome!

If it is not absolutely obvious where the leak is from I would thoroughly clean the engine and then a few days in you know exactly where it is coming from. While they all leak a little it can sometimes be one or two spots that cover everything. It should be much easier to do both at once and the rest on the bench. Do you have a workshop manual?


If it runs fairly well I concur with Joe. Clean it really well, and find all the leaks.
Front and rear main seals are common as is the power steering pump.
Cam oil feed leaks and cam cover leaks are fairly common too.
Perhaps the leaks have kept your car rust free? :thinking:
Coolant leaks are another matter all together.

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Many of the potential leaks can be dealt with with the engine in situ. Removing the power unit for other types leaks is a big job and best avoided if possible. Having said that, I was amazed that my very knowledgeable and well equipped shop did the engine and gearbox removal on my S Type a few years ago, by dropping it out the bottom and lifting the car over it. Of course that is not possible without some expensive shop equipment.

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When I rebuilt my engine this is what I did. Remove the front crossmember (actually very easy), lower the engine onto a trolley with the sump resting on some blocks then lift the body up. Much easier than trying to get it out the top.


Best thing it to try and id where the leaks are , wipe all oil off and place some paper under the car, you see the drips on the paper , may just be a sump gasket , if your lucky !
I find it easy to remove engine and box togeather out the bottom .
Remove subframe ,
Connect engine to engine Crain (hoist) undo engine and gearbox mounts , remove parts that are attached , ie prop , speedo cable , carbs and the like .
Lower engine to the floor , connect engine crane to engine mounts on car body ,
lift body till engine can slide out from under the body , support body .
Connect Crain to engine , lift a little , then roll engine out as far as you can , disconnect engine Crain , re connect at the front of engine , then you can roll Crain and engine out all the way , one man operation and safe !
To lift out the top you need a lot of hight , and a bigger Crain , with a longer arm !

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The freeze plugs are leaking. The oil pan is leaking too. I’ve removed the front and rear suspension assemblies. They were easy too! I’m worried that the rear freeze plug is leaking. I also want to give the block a proper coat of paint as well. All components attached to the engine are off. I’m giving the removed components a refresh as well. The trans while it shifts nice is a wet mess. Transmission fluid is leaking quite a bit. I’ve removed a ton of crud from the left side of the engine, oil pan and left side of the engine compartment as well. I’ve never seen so much undercoating!
I like the idea of lowering the engine transmission as a unit and lifting the front of the car to get it out.
Thanks for the reply and advice.

I’ve done that several times with no equipment, just a floor jack and a lot of pieces of wood.


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Like Mike, I removed my engine and transmission a few times from below using two Harbor Freight 440 pound electric hoist and the very low dolly in my carport. I removed the front bumper replacing it with two 2x4s bolted together (about a foot longer than the bumper) with eye hooks bolted through the wood on either end.
We made a quick arch using three 2x6s clamping it to the roof joist immediately over the front bumper as I didn’t want to lift the body using just the roof joists.

We chained the electric hoists to each end of the arch with the cable connected to the eyes on the wood replacement bumper

Follow the instructions for removing the engine and transmission in the manual, however, you MUST remove the carburetors before starting to lift the the jag body. If memory serves the front bumper must be at least 36 to 38 inches high (off the ground) in order to be able to rollout the engine on a low dolly. The rear axle and wheels acted as a pivot point

Using the 2 hoists allowed some fine-tuning when reinstalling the engine from below.

Good luck

65MK2 Cincinnati OH

This was my first time , I used Axle stands and some wood , and just a Scissor jack , all on my own in a lock up , before the internet or mobile phones :rofl:

Taking that engine out was a diffrent story some 30+ years later :grin: