How about the center point. This is kind of where I’m at right now. Should I slide the jack more forward?
My support (HF furniture dolly) was somewhat rearward - maybe not quite a far as what you show. It was quite stable.
How did you raise the engine up?
The usual way:
But the OP wants to raise it using a motorcycle jack. That’s a bit different as it may have less maneuverability than a hoist with chains and leveler.
Be exceptionally careful lifting the engine that way: it’s very top-heavy and would not take much to topple off of that motorcycle jack. Be very, very cautious!
Is there anything I can do do stabilize it? I was thinking of bolting the block of wood to the jack, then strapping the engine down w some ratchet straps. The stand is about 16” wide, do not too bad, but you are right. Very top heavy.
This is how I rolled mine under the car (Harbor Fright furniture dollies are cheap…). Once under I used a cherry picker like Geo to lift it the last foot once the body was lowered. Zero issues.
Sans a cherry picker, like Doug, bolting/strapping it to the dolly would be highly recommended.
I have a cherry picker also. Torsion bars / reaction plate off. My plan was to raise the front, slide the engine underneath from the side on the motorcycle jack, then lower the hoist / raise the engine into place. Now, you guys are scaring me with it tipping over. The other option is to lift it up with the hoist, slide the engine underneath on the dolly, then set the car back down and lift the engine with the hoist into place. Which one?
Good!
However, having it hooked to a cherry picker has eased my mind!
You plan seems sound…
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…The other option is to lift it up with the hoist, slide the engine underneath on the dolly, then set the car back down and lift the engine with the hoist into place…
That’s what I did, worked fine…
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If you’re doing this by yourself, the motorcycle jack provides a lot more precise control than dangling it on the end of the cherry picker. If you have a helper, then the cherry picker works fine. I sort of did both as I lifted it off the creeper and onto the m/c jack…PITA because it wanted to spin on the hook…tough to work the hoist valve and stabilize the assembly at the same time. I had no issues with tipping…on the other hand, the head was off the engine, so the CG was lower…
Is there anything I can do do stabilize it? I was thinking of bolting the block of wood to the jack, then strapping the engine down w some ratchet straps. The stand is about 16” wide, do not too bad, but you are right. Very top heavy.
I put a 4x4 block on either side of the engine resting on the torsion bars. They allow a bit of sideways movement but will keep an engine from tipping over.
I am going to attempt the same procedure with my 3.8 engine. Do you know if I need to remove anything from the front of the engine to fit it in?
Thanks,
Al
If you’re going in or out the bottom, the intake manifold has to come off and it’s convenient to have the exhaust manifolds off.
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I don’t see anything convenient about putting the exhaust manifolds on after the engine lifting. They clear the frames coming in from the bottom just fine.
You can do it either way, but IMO, Paul is correct in that it gives you a little more room to play with. And it’s easy enough to install the exhaust manifolds after the engine is in place.
With the added bonus of not scratching those freshly painted engine frames
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I took intake and exhaust manifolds off. Not taking any chances. I’m wondering if the water pump has to come off. Looks like it’s going to be close.
Thanks,
Al
It can be difficult install the pump properly, in situ.
I always put them in, with it installed.
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