Engine Removal Advice


(Pat Harmon) #1

I’m getting ready to replace the (incorrect) 3.4 engine in my MK IX with a 3.8, recently rebuilt. I’d appreciate any advice on the proper way to attach the engine balance bar. My XK-150 has lifting bars fitted onto the head and never removed. Each one spans across the head attaching to two head bolts each, two in the front and two in the rear. Do I need them for the new engine or just attach to one of the bolts in front and one in the rear? Also, is there a concern about head bolt torque? I am used to evenly un-torquing and re-torquing head bolts – not just loosening one in the front and one in the rear to attach the balance bar. Perhaps there is a different way to do this?

Pat H.


(tony) #2

I dont know whether you searched the archives, or got any answers

some advocate dropping the suspension on MK7-9, as the engine angle is steep

In the case of my 420G, I had to remove the leveller, and hang the engine by the front alloy lifting bar alone to get the angle steep enough to initially go in, then gradually lessen the angle as I slid it in…(using chains, jacks, ropes etc, not much fun

based on that, I would always make sure the lifting bars were torqued to both sides


(Art Ford) #3

I can’t see how “dropping the suspension” on a 7-9 would work. Only on a unibody sedan. You might be listening to the wrong people.


(Rob Reilly) #4

When I was age 16, I dropped an engine. My mistake was lifting it by a chain on two head studs, the chain links thus putting a twisting force on the nuts, and not enough thread engagement on the nuts. One of the nuts pulled off.

If I had to do this on a big Mark, I would get a pair of those lifting brackets.
It would appear from the parts catalogues that they came along during the first or second year of the Mark X. They are not listed in the XK150 catalogue, so perhaps yours were installed at some later date?
But I see they require longer studs. I wonder if there is an alternate thinner version so you could use the studs you have?
I think you are ok loosening and retorqueing 4 head nuts to install them, because they are at the front and back, the last 4 you would have done anyway.
This is from the 3.8 Mark X catalogue.


This is from the Mark VII Service Manual.


(Pat Harmon) #5

My Service Manual says “Place sling around engine and take weight on pulley blocks prior to disconnecting engine mountings. When lifting the engine note that the sling must be arranged to tilt the engine to the rear.”

I am thinking that putting two slings around the engine (front and rear) may be preferable to using lifting brackets. My '59 XK150 has brackets installed and I’m thinking those head bolts are longer to allow for the bracket thickness.


(Rob Reilly) #6

Yes, that’s presumably how they did it before they had the brackets.


Be careful, because with slings the engine is top heavy and can try to roll over.
I encountered that problem when doing my Mark V.
PICT0033


(Pat Harmon) #7

I did purchase a balance bar and think I will attach two slings – one from the front of the bar and one from the rear… Yes, the engine is top heavy. My newly rebuilt engine is on a stand and I had to use my crane to flip it over to work on the sump pan. Thanks for your advice.

Pat


(Rob Reilly) #8

You may want to consider choker slings.
These images are from a sling manufacturer called Lift-It, of which my crew of riggers and I are satisfied frequent users.
image
image
image


(Pat Harmon) #9

Thanks and, yes, I think that is the way to go. Now, another question if you don’t mind. I’m hoping the cross brace above and behind the radiator can be removed. Any idea?
Pat


(Rob Reilly) #10

These screen shots suggest it could have been ordered as a separate piece back in the day, for an accident repair job for example.
For how it is held in place, I’m guessing spot welds, but will have to defer to Mark IX experts. Spot welds can be drilled out and re-welded afterwards.



(tony) #11

No, not without cutting, that is the problem.

To get the engine with trans in (a 420G), the angle was more than 45degrees

my mate has his MK9 engine out atm, receiving a T7004 trans, I will ask him what he did

I have removed engine & trans from MK7, as I was wrecking it, I cut the front top member
Its possible to weld it back in, or make up plates

not that I am advocating it but having no suspension allows removal from the bottom, OR, more room , and consequently less angle, if removing from above.

I like Robs sling idea

You can use the thin steel versions of lifting brackets fitted to XJ to get around the stud height issue…I would mail you some for a lend if I was near you


(Roger McWilliams) #12

Slings have their benefits, but also beware of downsides. In addition to engine rotation, pay attention to possible sliding of engine relative to any piece in the sling during the varying tilting that is needed to position the engine. Slings around/under an engine can be great for lifting and trouble for tilting.


(Lovell) #13

I could be wrong but I don’t remember removing the front facing radiator sheet metal.

I did remove engine with the aid of a load balancer. It basically moves the fulcrum.

I also had 2 pieces of plywood to protect the windshield.


(Pronk) #14

Pat
I’ve used an engine pivot plate specifically adapted for the XK engine from Myk’s Tools. It’s a very well made piece of kit. I used it for a MK2 engine pull - I don’t know if the extraction angles are more or less severe on the MK iX. Something like this is more stable than slings and gave me more confidence than than the alloy OEM hoist loops.
image

Darrell


(tony) #15

Just rang my mate, as promised, he has his MK9 engine out now

He stated that he removed engine ancilliaries, removed the swaybar only, dropped the engine down on to a low trolley he has, lifted the front of the vehicle with a chain hoist, and wheeled the engine & DG trans out

He stated this is much easier than doing it from above. He has R&R many Jag engines

I have removed all mine from above, using a engine crane

When I have been in pro shops, and worked in one, a chain hoist was usually employed, which imo is much easier, if you have the height.

In any case, so long as you can change the angle easily, whilst moving the engine, or vehicle, forward & back
it goes well