I’m renewing the bearing and oil seal on the axle shafts of the env axle and would like to know the procedure to do so including the tightening process of the locking nut and torque setting if appropriate.
I’ve reviewed all my manuals but cannot find this information.
Rich
When you say “manuals” I presume you include the factory Service Manual.
There is no torque spec for the pinion flange nut. You first get all your shims right, then you tighten this nut and feel that the end float is right, then back off to the first slot where you can get your cotter pin in.
Thanks for such a quick reply.
Yes,I do include the Jaguar service manual but I couldn’t find the info I wanted.
I was referring to the axle shafts not the pinion shaft. I got the latter covered from the post you wrote recently re:XK120 ENV pinion nut torque question which I found very informative.
I imagine the process would be to install the conical distance piece on the shaft, install the bearing carrier with new oil seal and outer bearing collar, install inner bearing followed by the tagged distance washer followed by the lock tab and the large locking nut. What is not explained in the service manual unfortunately is how much to tighten the locking nut before backing off (if necessary) and securing with the lock tab.
Rich
Without having found a torque specification for ENV axles, one step to help is to measure the torque required to free the nut during disassembly. The ENV axle has a nut which locks the hub bearing on the axle shaft, perhaps that is what your inquiry is about.
Thanks for your reply.
That’s the nut.
Unfortunately I omitted to take a torque estimate to get the nut off in the first place - I’ll do that in future.
It would have been quite a force though as the nut was in very tight…
I’ve been advised that you tighten the nut by feel but I’m not an experienced mechanic and by feel I could be out by a long way. I’ve seen an axle shaft with an under tightened locknut which left the conical distance piece free to spin and gouge a groove in the shaft flange.
If there is anyone out there who has the torque information (or at least an estimate what it may be) please let me know.
Regards
Rich
Ok, there is no torque spec for that #44 nut, you just tighten it good and tight so the inner bearing #43 is held with the axle shaft, not free to turn separately. Then lock it with the locking tab washer 45. It looks like it fits into the 46 tongued washer but I’m not sure about that.
The outer bearing race 43 fits into the housing 40, and when you have the right amount of shims 41 then the end float should be .005 to .008 inches, which you might just be able to feel. It should not be so tight that you can’t turn the axle, and not so loose that you feel a clunk if you push/pull the hub.
BTW Plate H1.2 is a little bit outdated, in that it shows the brake cylinder only used on early Mark V up to about Feb 1950.
Hi
Thanks for the info and drawing.
I have a further question regarding the ‘half shaft’. Has anyone come across a rubber sealing seal which fits inside the distance piece No39 in Rob’s drawing - it’s No 810 in the parts catalogue just below the reference to No39 (821). This sealing ring not to be confused with the ‘hard’ rubber sealing rings installed at the end of the axle case No47 and inside the bearing carrier No42.
I’m assuming that the sealing ring I’m referring to is mildly compressed within the distance piece by the locknut. Although the locknut will have a relatively high torque the distance piece will prevent an excess of compression on the sealing ring. I’m assuming this sealing ring prevents oil egress between the distance piece and the axle shaft - especially if the shaft is slightly worn.
Judging by my example the ring is a conical shape to fit inside the distance piece and would not have started life as an ‘o’ ring
I would appreciate advise where I could get replacements and if an o’ ring would do to replace my tired examples.
Many thanks Rich
My late '50 has an ENV rear axle. I did everything you’re doing to yours and more last summer. That sealing ring you’re referring to in the #39 distance piece is indeed an O-ring. If it no longer looks like a true O-ring, it’s only because it has a taken a set over the decades. Upon disassembly, both of mine were still both acceptably pliable so they were reused. It’s nothing to obsess over, just there to minimize any weeping of fluid past the axle.
