Etype series 1 4.2 steering column question

Pulled column out from under fluid bottles without removing radiator. What is the purpose of the flat section of the steering wheel column shaft ? I ask as I’m trying to center the steering wheel and have read numerous jag - lovers posts but it isn’t clear which specific part of the column arrangement (non collapsible type here) will remedy my centering problem. Rebuilt rack is ok, same 2.25 both directions. New tie rod joints. I assume the cabin knuckle can be spline attached to steering wheel to center it ? Thus, it doesn’t matter which splines I use to lock down on the rack splines. It seems the cabin section of the column knuckle will accomplish centering steering wheel, but why the latter flat section ?

Thanks
Patrick
'66 fhc

Ordinarily a cut like this is to permit the bolt that locks the female splines to the shaft to pass through.

The through bolt that goes in the hole in the splined collar in your top photograph would interfere with the splined shaft shown in your bottom photograph if that flat section wasn’t there. When you assemble the two sections the flat is orientated such that it is parallel to the through bolt.

I think the design also cleverly creates a fail safe to prevent the splined shaft from coming out of the splined collar. As the two sections are pulled apart the round section of the splined shaft will hit the bolt, stopping the shaft from completely coming out of the collar.

Perfect, flat section is a bolt related function. So which splined location can I adjust the steering wheel centering. My '66 fhc has three such locations: at the rack splines, at the cabin knuckle lower splines or at the same knuckle upper splines (the splines that attach to the steering wheel column).

Patrick
'66 fhc

Normally you would centre the rack and then remove the steering wheel and centre it.

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tried all the ways to do it straight and just ended up driving in a straight line and then remember how much readjust when you put the wheel on again.

Any or all of them “could” work. It depends on the degree to which it is off center. You might try counting the splines at each joint, and estimating the number of degrees which the wheel is off center, then adjust at the point where you are most likely to be able to change it by that number of degrees. Mine is off center but only like 10 degrees which is too small to be adjusted using splines. One spline shift will just make it off center in the other direction. Mine needs to be adjusted out using the tie rods but I’m too lazy.

What Geoff said. qwfwefwefwe

Just reread my post and realized I should have added that if your rack is centered and your wheel is centered and your car is not heading straight down the road it means your wheel alignment needs adjustment.

Somewhere in there you need to make sure the turn signal cancelling device is also centered along with whels and steering wheel.

Erica, the upper splines won’t allow centering adjustment as failsafe bolt only fits across the flat section. The other two splines however appear to allow centering adjustment.

“Somewhere in there you need to make sure the turn signal cancelling”

Les, I assume the column striker should in be inline with the steering wheel 6oclick point ? If yes, then my striker us off a tad.

Thanks
Patrick
'66 fhc

Ah yes, you are correct. So you have the wheel itself on its sliding splines, and the lower column joint to the rack pinion.