Agreed: the MOST I ever measured was a 2F drop. Not much, but, hey! In a race car? I’ll take it!
Copyright that name before I do!
If waterless could make more power it would be in every high dollar race car. But race cars run water because it is the most effective coolant.
Also hydrogen bonding raises the energy required to boil water. This provides a good safety margin at a critical point. Glycol doesn’t have this and will just get hotter.
Also, when it gets dumped on the track, it’s not as slick.
Nor is it flammable. Like Evans.
Car folks tend to anthropormorphize their vehicles. They mistake these feelings for engineering logic.
Somewhere out there, a brilliant chemist has designed plastics that can tolerate heat and vibration to a degree we never would have expected fifty years ago. But because we love our babies, we want to pamper those plastics by bathing them in pure glycol. It utter nonsense, but it’s a potentially lucrative business.
Glycol is flammable. If you mix it with water, it can still burn but would first require enough heat to boil off the water. So it’s rarely a problem. But take away the water? Find an MSDS and review the flash point and autoignition temperature for whatever you’re throwing into your system, and ask yourself whether those temperatures are common under the hood. There’s an evil conspiracy theory that manufacturer’s don’t used this stuff because they’re saving money. But what they’re really doing is avoiding the problem of adding another a potential fire hazard and piping it around the engine and passenger compartment.
Pure glycol crystallizes at low temperature. Pure glycol is less efficient at transferring heat. Pure glycol is more viscous than water or a 50/50 mix .Pure glycol plus heat and air eventually degrades into acidic byproducts. (Why people believe that pure glycol won’t cause corrosion is beyond me.) Yes, it boils at a higher temperature, but there’s all that other stuff.
However, let’s get one thing clear: racers run pure water because glycol is banned on race tracks. This is because glycol on hot asphalt is very slippery and doesn’t evaporate quickly.
I put Evans in my engine but my car was completely apart so i didnt have to rinse it out. I used it because they used it on Wheeler Dealers so i figured it must be good. So far it seems fine. On the website it says your engine may actually run a few degrees hotter. By not boiling it keeps the coolant more in contact with metal surfaces.
When I change the coolant in any of my car’s, I pick up a couple gallons of distilled water at the grocery store to mix with the antifreeze. Not sure it makes any difference but at least I feel better.
Thanks for the correction on racing. I’ve seen coolant burn, but didn’t know it was slippery.
Yeah, but that new-age plastic still only lasts 5-7 years before it fails and destroys your engine, so I don’t get your point?
I never saw coolant burn, in any number of instances I saw, of hundreds of blown radiator hoses, so in that regard, it’s not a worry to me.
As for it being slippery?
OMG… it’s slipperier’n owl puckey on a brass doorknob!
Propylene glycol is what we used to deice aircraft, and needless to say, the trucks get doused with it. When stepping out of the truck, it can be like a liquid ice skating rink, on the steps and deicing pad.
I discovered it the hard way after installing new small coolant hoses on the heater core. They have no raised edge on the end of the pipe for grip. If there was even a hint of glycol residue on the pipe or inside the hose it would blow right off at the meager 7 psi of the cooling system.
Sounds like 007s Moneypenny’s sad sister.
She’s not the sad sister, the one with the empty purse is
Yes that is the reference though. Her name has been Ms MoneyPitty for quite a while now.
i used it in a turbo Mazda Rotary engine for 11 yrs,only cap i could fined was 6p,when took engine out and apart(run low on oil), for those who unfamiler with rotarys the turbo engines have a BAD habit on hi boost to get a localized HOT spot right in center of combustion space, can-will cause Detonation! Mazda factory engineers found water based coolant could rapid boil and leave a small area VOID of any liquid coolant, and it is why Today Mazda doesnt make turbo rotary engines, YEAH, maybe OK for lowly piston engines .LOL? also the engine was huge swept volume(cu.in,for you guys) 1.3L,(80cu) and over 500hp!
there was NO signs of corrosion anywhere, Evans had turned a yellow color no wierd smells , after some engine work put Evans back in filtered thru a cloth!
also had it in this Camaro 467inch BBC, in very cold weather had to warm the engine few minutes, seemed thickin up! BUT in warm Texas never any probs!
read up on Evans , and it was developed for the military Black hawk helos, NO not the engines(turbines), the Hydrualic control systems .
to each his own !
Thanks to all for your feedback. Looks like the majority of us agree that a well maintained cooling system does not need the Evans waterless coolant and using it (in our E’s) to stop boil over is only masking a growing problem and allow the engine to run hotter than intended.
Its like installing a bigger fuse in place of the regular one that is telling you something is wrong by “popping” every time you close the circuit.
That’s actually s pretty good analogy.
Just get a cooling system up to snuff-- sometimes not an easy task-- and normal ol’ green AF, plus soft water or distilled… and enjoy the savings!
That’s exactly what I’ve been doing for the last 10 years of ownership and , knock on wood, never had an overheating issue…
Keep it changed, and power flushed, every 2 years, use distilled water ( NOT deionized, of good, soft tap water) and your system will remain good.
Oh, NOW you did it! The gremlins mating call…