I did change the Crank sensor however No change in transmission function, Removed Working Trans Module from my other 96 and install it temp into the other one , The Trans shifted perfectly . So I now need a new trans module. Still have the ABS light lit on dash that is next
That’s what the jag shop is doing to my car as well! They’re pulling the transmission valve body from a 97 XJ6 and putting it into my car.
They told me it would cost me the same to have them swap out the solenoid only without any guarantee of success, then they’d go back and try the entire valve body….essentially charging me twice. I took the offer….will let you know what happens.
Apparently the ZF 4hp transmission no longer has new solenoids available.
Apparently replacing the valve body, in its entirety, resolved the problem.
I am taking the old one back with me. Based on all the research I’ve done in my spare time waiting for the car, it seems likely that a plastic ball bearing may have broken up, or perhaps the solenoid truly has failed….either way, I’ll have a spare on me and see if I can’t refurbish it….carefully.
So I have that valve body on my table. I tested the solenoid, while still connected to the valve body, using the end of the harness. Clicked away when I showed it some 12v action. The solenoid and the associated harness appears good.
Is there any other way to test a solenoid?
The car is running perfectly with the replacement valve body from the 97 XJ6, no cause for alarm, just figured I’d see if I can tell what went wrong.
Perhaps not the solenoid. Generally the solenoid would vent a passage, which causes a spool valve to move either under spring or hydraulic pressure; other passages then direct high pressure to the clutches/servos. Maybe spool valve is binding? There is on some transmissions a pressure sensor to indicate to the TCM that a shift has occurred, maybe a sensor failure?
So just before I had it repaired, when I reset, or cleared the Transmission Light, in Park, without the engine in, that light would click off for half a second and pop right back on. Just long enough to let me know the reset worked.
Obviously something is wrong enough with that valve body to tell the car it’s bad without even having it in gear, or driving it. I assumed it would be the solenoid itself. Maybe I need to take it off the body and give it a good look. Either that, or test it to check for ohms, or something that would tell an ECU it’s not functioning.