o2 sensor definately kaput. 2-5 mins is where the ECU is expecting to see the o2 sensor come ‘on line’ when it does not ‘see’ the varying voltage it resorts to the start ups mapping for fuel.
The chain should not be rattling, sounds like the tensioner may be gummed up, how long since the engine had an oil change?
Kaput 
yes I think so too …
stupid coincidence that all of this happened after cleaning the butterfly.
yes, just before the engine control light comes on, the idle drops drastically.
tomorrow the sensor comes and I hope that was it.
I don’t know how to change the oil, I haven’t had the vehicle that long …
first the oil change and then the tensioner? or the same oil change with the tensioner.
The old tensioner is still installed, I mean the old design.
is it difficult to use the new one?
see only 2 screws.
the Distributor will probably have to be dismantled …
Easy to change the oil but be aware the sump is aluminum and it is VERY easy to overtighten the sump drain plug and crack the sump threads at the plug. Go easy on it.
Stojan …
Have you definitely checked that you are getting a steady 12v (or more) to the O2 sensor heater wires?
On my '89 I was getting a CEL code 4 (which is basically the same as your code 44) and after months of troubleshooting I finally tracked it down to a loose ground on the heater ground wire. It took me forever to figure that out but once I tightened up the bolt that holds the ground wire the CEL went away.
What this simple problem caused was the ECU constantly detecting a problem with the O2 sensor and keeping the system in the preprogramed or “open” loop" which resulted in a much richer trim.
The open loop is used before the O2 sensor reaches 600f or if there is a problem. If everything is normal at 600f the ECU will change into the closed loop where it looks at the O2 sensor readings and all the other sensors to determine what pulse and duration the fuel injectors should be operating at which is normally a much leaner fuel trim than what the ECU commands.
Hello.
I only tested the heating on the oxygen sensor at the beginning for about 1 minute.
there was of course 12volt and I didn’t care about the heating anymore.
Since the oxygen sensor doesn’t oscillate, regardless of whether it is cold or warm, I thought I found the fault.
the loose earth cable from the heater do I find that exactly?
I think you did find the fault if it doesn’t oscillate!
Stojan / Larry …
“Since the oxygen sensor doesn’t oscillate, regardless of whether it is cold or warm, I thought I found the fault”
There is a good chance that you may find that the O2 sensor itself is the fault … but …
Remember it’s the ECU that occillates the voltage between .01v and .09v when the O2 sensor reaches
600F not the O2 sensor itself (a common misconception). Therefore I believe that any problem that causes the ECU to trigger a CEL and remain in the open loop will also stop the computer from sending the voltage oscillation. Rather insidious
On my problem I was not getting a voltage oscillation and the O2 sensor was brand new. I had a loose ground on the O2 heater wire and when I fixed it everything went back to normal, and no more light.
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I stand as one of the misconcepted! 
Maybe the ECU is the reason my car has ALWAYS run a little on the rich side of things …I have a spare, but if I fit that, will my odometer change to the mileage of the parts car?
Or is the odometer reading stored in the body module or somewhere else? 
Larry …
I changed my ECU during my troubleshooting and it didn’t affect the milage displayed. (However i must confess my milage display has been frozen for a while now. Both before and after I swapped out my ECU 
)
Once you do all the work to get to the ECU it will be simple enough to swap the units back and forth and see if the milage display changes. Somehow I doubt if that’s where it’s stored.
Here’s an excerpt of an excellent explanation of troubleshooting O2 sensors …
“A big misconception among technicians trying to understand O2 sensors is that they cycle by themselves. The O2 sensor just reads oxygen content in the exhaust, THAT’S IT. Excess oxygen in the form of regular ambient air will send the O2 sensor voltage signal low (under 0.450 volts) and lack of it will send the voltage signal high (over 0.450 volts)”
hello oxygen sensor has been replaced, it oscillates when it is warm. Fail 44 is gone … juhuuu and thanks for the energetic support!
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Stojan …
Excellent news that a new sensor solved your problem.
And the added advantage is that you now know more about the operation of the O2 sensor than you ever wanted to 
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