Am I correct in thinking I can remove the heater fan motor (for testing, repair or replacement) by simply undoing the 4 nuts holding the bottom plate?
The battery would need to be removed I expect but then perhaps the motor and fan come down far enough to clear the box?
Yes
IMHO, The SNG replacement MAGNET MOTOR along with THEIR ADJUSTED SQUIRREL wheel
Will draw 70 percent less energy and blow ALOT HARDER.
GTJOEY1314
Yes, plus 20 affirmatives!
Joey… do you have the SNG part numbers for the fan and motor?? SNG lists a number of them.
Don
Not on hand
But if you call tomorrow and ask for Will
He will have my order sheet
Just tell him Gtjoey said to call
It’s a magnet motor with a different angle squirrel wheel
Same wires same colors
You don’t have to cut down the shaft
It’s whisper quiet and draws 65 percent or more
Less energy
It’s great!
Look at my 67 build thread I show how to put it together as well
Good luck
Gtjoey1314
Please help. My my heater motor can barely turn the squirrel wheel, so after reading this thread, I thought I’d pull out the motor and replace it. But I can’t get the squirrel wheel off the shaft of the motor. There was a lock washer around the shaft which needed a little kroil to get off, but I still can’t get the shaft to pull through, so I cant get the motor out. I tried tapping the top of the shaft, I put 2 metal bars under the squirrel cage to hold it up while I tapped the top of the shaft. Nothing. Ugh.
If the right thing to do is to pull off the whole heater box, I’ll do that. Thanks in advance.
No need to remove the whole heater box from the car. You can remove the battery and then remove the four nuts that hold the motor and fan assembly in position in the fan section of the heater box. The motor, the plate it’s attached to and the squirrel age fan can then drop out the bottom. From there it’s just a matter of separating the fan from the motor shaft.
With 50+ years of rust locking the two together… The original squirrel cage is not directional and fairly inefficient. It might be Time to get an improved squirrel cage to go with the new motor.
Thanks John and Bill,
I know better, I should have provided these pics last night, I apologize. I took out the battery, and removed the 4 nuts. I also removed the 4 smalls screws holding the top screen in place, to see what was holding the shaft in place, to prevent it from pulling through. There was just a lock washer (funny shaped), which I was able to remove. The problem is that the plate above the motor is getting hung up on the frame rail.
Here are pictures from below and above, trying to show where its hung up. I can’t tilt the motor enough to get it out with the squirrel cage attached.
And the view from above:
The base of the squirrel cage looks like it’s hard plastic, but I sprayed a bunch of Kroil on it to soak overnight, but I still can’t get the shaft to pull through.
Definitely sounds like replacing both motor and cage is the right way to go. I just need to get this old pair out.
Not a problem. See the flat side of the plate, just below your red arrow in the first picture? Turn the assembly so that the flat side is parallel to the frame rail. That gives you the necessary clearance to drop the assembly down below the frame rail.
I wish it was that easy. I rotated it as you suggested, still not enough clearance. I pulled, twisted, turned begged, tried every angle, nada. Even tried pulling up on the end of the heater box to get more clearance, still at least a half inch shy.
Dumb question, are the 4 screws sticking out the bottom of the heater box, to which the fan attaches, supposed to come out? I tapped them gently and they didn’t move so I thought maybe they are welded in place.
If they are just rusted in place, I can work on that. The screw closest to me when I am wrestling with this, is preventing the disc from tilting more, and that just might be all the room I need.
The screws coming out of the bottom of the box are welded studs, they are not removable.
I suggest you remove the mounting screws at the engine frame and firewall and slightly raise the entire box, this assumes your hoses are not old and brittle. If they are, then it’s time for new hoses and antifreeze.
Sounds like a great approach Bill, thanks, I’ll do that this evening.
Four bolts hold the heater box to the bulkhead. Try removing both bottom bolts and the top outboard one. Then loosen the top inboard one but don’t remove it. That might give you enough play to rotate the heater box counterclockwise (looking at the box from the front of the car) without you having to remove the box from the car which involves partially draining the cooling system. Oh, and there is also a bracket between the heater box and the frame rail that would have to be disconnected before you tried to rotate it.
Woo Hoo!
Y’all are an incredibly patient group, thank you!
I’m up to about 14 baggies of parts now, properly labeled, as I’ve gone from fixing the seat sliders, to fully taking the seats apart , to ordering new CoolCats, to ordering a new heater motor. Whew. Step by step.
I have SOOO much to learn.
By the way, this whole thing with dropping pieces into engine abyss and spending too much time trying to figure out where they went is, well, I guess it’s probably just dues. I don’t mind. I’ve actually found a few other parts that I know I didn’t drop, somebody else clearly gave up finding them.
Thanks again!!
I agree and seem to have paid the dues for both you, me and several others. This have become the most valuable tool in my tool box.
If I could have back all the time I have spent on my hands and knees looking for something I dropped, I would have hours and hours back
Another life saving thing, that doesn’t cost much money: a cheap canvas painting tarp spread out underneath anywhere where you are working.
It minimizes bouncing nuts/bolts/Jesus parts that go off into the corner of the shop, and makes it so that you can see fallen tools and parts much easier.
Anything you drop goes to one of three places:
A well-known physical force, known as, “car suck.”
