Fastener question

I’ve got some bolts marked 8.8 on the head. I know what 8.8 means tensile strength wise, I see that all the time on metric bolts.

Here’s the question: Are SAE bolts ever marked with 8.8?.

Not to my knowledge.

I’ve always understood that marking to be metric-specific, and Bolt Depot’s guide seems to agree.

Are you asking because you have an 8.8 marked bolt that fits an sae nut. If so I would guess that it has been rethreaded.

Thanks all. Just curiosity. I’ve also understood 8.8 and 10.9 were strictly metric markings. The anchor bolts for my lift are so marked but referred to in the installation manual as 5/8" bolts. The threaded portion measures 5/8".

16 mm is pretty close. If for some reason they needed 5/8 they might have used metric grade steel.

Yes it measured 15.8mm on the threads so that might mean it would measure 16mm on the untheaded shank if it had one. The head works perfectly with a 15/16" wrench and socket. I’m going to the hardware store tomorrow so I’ll take one of the bolts with me and compare it to their SAE and metric stuff.

EDIT: Yes, 16mm X 50mm. BendPak should correct their manual.

I dumped the fasteners BendPak supplied (China) and purchased US rated bolts used for highway signs. These are 3/4"x7" to be used on 5" concrete slab for 10000 lb rated lift.
Glenn

Less than two inches long? Hopefully a typo…I’d go with at least 4 inches. BTW, John, I am jealous. Had a chance at a local one 10 yrs ago and passed, thinking I lacked the space. Probably right, but always wondering.

Just some thoughts here John…there’s no way there’s any chance of either, you tightening those bolts hard enough to strip them…and/or…there’s no way the rig itself is going to apply enough force to rip the threads…so, from my feelings, no point in wasting money on new bolts…YMMV of course.

The instructions in the manual for my setup it stated NOT to use a hammer gun to tighten the bolts so again, no way you’ll apply enough force to “break” one of those bolts. In fact I’d wager that you’d pull the anchor out before you damage the bolts.

But, I understand that a little paranoia is useful when dealing with unfamiliar items, and I felt exactly the same way but the design is pretty darned good imo, and safe as is.

1 Like

I have posted on this topic before. The local BendPak dealer sent the " Three Stooges" to install my lift. They drilled holes in my new aged concrete in the wrong placement. Used an impact driver that pulled fasteners up 2 1/2" in my 5" concrete. I asked what torque rating they used and the answer was 90 psi. They did not know what a ft/bl was as stated in the installation manual. I hammered out the fasteners they used and installed new with epoxy,
torqued to 90 ft/lb after epoxy cured.
The concrete is the weak link, not the fastener unless the fastener is not able to grab.
I think the epoxy gave me peace of mind? It is necessary to recheck torque of nuts once in a while.
Glenn

I totrally agree. My recollection is that, as a minimum, a bolt should grip a length of threads equal to the diameter of the bolt. The one’s BendPak supplied grip almost twice that. One sleeve set lower than ideal and I wasn’t satisfied with how much of that bolt was gripping the threads in the sleeve. I bought a longer bolt for that one.

Hi John, if you google Jaguar Fastener Guide you can download and print the actual factory guide to the parts book bolt numbers. It will list the bolt,screw,washer and even some of the hose clamps, part numbers and translate them.

Regards,
Allen

Or right here:

2. Decoding Fastners.pdf (123.9 KB)