1992 XJS V12 Convertible recently shows ff17 fault code with check eng light. But it runs like a top. No throttle position sensor fault symptoms. Should I worry? Walker Auto Parts has one in stock for $300+. They are in North Carolina and affiliated with NAPA. In not familiar with Walker.
The 92 TPS had a special green plastic plug end that is not available to my knowledge. The sensor itself is identical to some earlier models, but I doubt the plug end is correct on the part you’ve found. I’d have to see it.
This Walker item is the WRONG plug end for a 92:
Now that same $300 item is only $114 from SNG Barratt:
I do have tools crimper and parts to convert the SNG item to the correct plug end. I could do it for $50. The terminal housing gets reused with new terminals inside. Contact me if you’re interested. We’d have to figure out a way to get the voltage set, and that would depend on your skill level. At idle the voltage has to be a specific value, and it’s done by rotating the sensor from underneath. If you’re anywhere near New Hampshire USA it’d be a breeze with PDU dealer computer. You’d have to send entire spindle to me and the your car is offline while it happens.
I would disconnect and reconnect negative terminal at battery to reset the check engine light and then see if the FF code returns on the next drive cycle begire i start replacing things
I’ve done that and the fault returns.
This is the part Walker has. Walker Throttle Position Sensor
Part Number: 634-06181737
Brand: Walker
Notes: Throttle Position Sensor – Late
You’re correct. Mine has the large green connector and Walker’s does not.
To answer your original question: Yes you can keep driving it and not bother fixing it. The car does not need a TPS to run. When the switch gets real bad, revving the engine will stumble and you won’t like it anymore.
The switch should not go “out” of adjustment by itself, but it is possible the switch is just not adjusted correctly. If you recently fiddled with the two throttle body rods or the cruise control you could have moved something out of the correct voltage range. This thing gets 5V input, and the rotation gives various voltages out. Something like .3V at idle. If it’s putting out more than .3V at idle, it could throw a code.
I cleaned out the plugs with 91% isopropyl and then sprayed that dry with canned compressed air and reconnected. Cycled battery neg for 20 seconds and started car. Let it run, varying throttle for 2 minutes and fault is cleared. Thanks for your advice.