Fhc door window seals

Morning all, can anyone advise the correct orientation for the outer door window frame and B pillar lip seals please, open side in, or open side out? Thanks. Chris.

I positioned my door frame lip seal to have the opening facing toward the B pillar seal. I installed the B pillar seal in the opposite orientation so they interlocked.

I just did this. The lip is offset towards the inside so it folds over when you close it. What I am not sure about is the weather stripping between the door frame and the rear side window. There is no clearance for the weather stripping (area circled). There is already a piece on the side window frame. I have the same clearance on both sides.

The gap on mine is about a quarter of an inch give or take a little from top to bottom. The seal on mine does a good job of adjusting itself to the slight gap difference.

David
68 E-type FHC

Thanks David. That’s about what I’ve got now.

Chris Baglin

Here is photo in case it helps. I did replace the two seals several years ago but do not think the door has ever been off the car or been apart. The one on the RH side is still the original but cracking so I really should replace it now too.

David
68 E-type FHC

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Hi Guys, I am undertaking this project as we speak and have questions!

I had no trouble pulling the old rubber out and cleaning the channels of all prior debris and adhesives. The channels look practically brand new.

I was told to clean the new rubber and lightly sand the contact portion so that the weatherstrip glue would bond more securely. PS: I have the 3M Super Black recommended on another thread.

Before getting all messy with the adhesive, I was trying to get comfortable inserting the rubber into the channel and even using the flat side of a plastic pry tool, couldn’t wedge the rubber in.

I’m now pausing and in search of new info!

I read in a different thread that adhesive wasn’t necessary and to use silicone grease!! Clearly a different approach.

Any tips and insights will be greatly appreciated.

Any rubber bits that fit in a snug channel definitely don’t require glue. They’re quite hard to get in so they aren’t going to move anywhere.

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No glue required, use a water based lube if poss, I use Hellerine but even washing up liquid will do. Anything silicone leaves the seal a bit slippy and can pop out. Water based drys. Try not to stretch the seral too much as you fit, It can relax after time and look bad

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After wrestling with the passenger side, I moved the car into the sunlight and let everything heat up a bit… finished the driver door in a third of the time.