Star-Tron = good stuff. It has also been gradually coming down in price as I think more and more people use/by it. I first learned about it years ago when the owners of the vendor that sells new/rebult parts for Opels out in N CA sent a newsletter to all of their customers touting the product.
btw, I notice companies that make those type of products are careful (or should be, if not) to claim that their particular product âremovesâ ethanol (deposits) from the gas. I have watched several videos on line and they point out that nothing actually âremovesâ it directly, but rather those products somehow allow it to be broken down (âatomizesâ it?) so that it passes through the engine harmlessly and out the exhaust.
OMG ⌠IIRC, that is the same thing my dad (the accomplished mech engineer and automation/tooling designer, no less) insisted I try on his old broke down Honda Civic back in the '80s. For some reason, he thought it would work (or maybe it couldnât HURT worse?). I remember it as a 2-part kit - the first part was a liquid you added to the oil. The second, more interesting part, consisted of a little cardboard tube through which you rolled these little pellets (like very large BBs or small marbles) down through the spark plug holes. I never did figure out what the balls were made of, but it appeared to be at least part graphite mixed with maybe some carbon? The idea was the pellets would melt in the heat of the combustion chamber and reline the walls of the cylinders with metal ⌠We loaded our Civic up as instructed, but when we started her up the balls were smashed between the pistons and the valves (i.e. not enough clearance) before they had a chance to melt, apparently causing some internal damage in the process.
Not sure if I still have one or two. These were two bolts and nuts to replace the factory units that secure the connecting rod cap to the connecting rod in T Ford engines with flat crank shaft journals. The bolts were longer sand included coil coils springs. I theory the bore in the rod would adjust to the âout of roundâ journal as the rod rotated.
Well knowing that these engines could easily toss a rod, no way would I even try it. no matter that I had no micrometer to measure a journal!!!
Got stung by a snake oil salesman. A very friendly guy called at the gas station that employed me. Wynnâs friction proofing. He had a very nice 41 Ford panel. Claimed he used it there. The V8 purred!!! Oh, and he used 10 weight oil with it!!! Dumb kid as I was, I tried it in my nice 47 Ford. Rattle rattle. Knew that sound. Got a rebuilt engine/ Super dumb. .Wynnâs + 10/ Drove a while. then rattle rattle. Saved by the warranty!!! Uh, uh, got me twice. No more. 30 And all was well. Kinda needed an engine anyhowâŚ
Then,at a car lot, this black 49 Mercury Club coupe. A James Dean car Did a deal. Three on the tree and OD. Much fun⌠Could go 6 gears forward.
About four years later I saw my 47 on the street !!!
âhey I used to own that car!â Reply,. "well, it is just about gone now? !! Carl.
The MMO has helped the last couple months, but the odd stumble still presented itself now and then.
Finally found the last piece of the puzzle?! The last two days, it has never idled this smooth continuously.
I re-adjusted the throttle plates so the gaps are perfectly even top/bottom.
Months ago I had set the top gap to .002" as outlined in Jaguar Manual. But yesterday I noticed the bottom gap was much tighter, I couldnât even pull the feeler out. So I loosened the two screws on plates, and adjusted a micron higher so that I got 0.002" on top AND bottom gap.
I guess the bit of air coming through throttle bodies at idle flow a bit differently if throttle plates gaps are equal? I was told it creates a vortex for better fuel/air mixture. Only coming in one end means no vortex.
It has also been gradually coming down in price as I think more and more people use/by it. I first learned about it years ago when the owners of the vendor that sells new/rebult parts for Opels out in N CA sent a newsletter to all of their customers touting the product.
