Many years ago installed teflon front seal kit. Now that things are apart want to renew the seal. I thought I recall years ago sliding plastic sleeve on to crank and then sliding seal off of plastic onto crank. This does not work because of the flare of plastic. Is my recollection wrong, and do you just remove plastic sleeve and slide this thing in?
Glenn
Correct. And if you look at the seal, if you try and put it on like that it goes on backwards.
Ask me how I know this…
Dick Maury has written an article on this: http://www.georgiajag.com/Documents/Crank%20Seal/CrankSeal.html
I’m pretty sure the included instructions say to press the plastic collar out using the crank as you push the seal on. So the plastic bit is essentially a dummy crank. The problem, as Andrew mentions is that if you do this, the seal will actually be backwards. I have two NOS parts sitting on the shelf and a couple months ago I had a look at them. The plastic appeared to be pressed in from the wrong side for those instructions. The inner lip of the seal must face inward.
It makes no sense anyway unless you’re installing it on a bare crank with the spacer already installed. If you’re trying to clear the timing cover then it has to go on without the steel spacer and be tipped into place. Then after installing the sump, the collar is pressed in.
FWIW, after having gone through about 4 of these in 20 years I’m abandoning them and going back to the basic one. Since it’s apart a slinger will be reinstalled on the crank. I had reasonably better luck with the very last one I installed. It hadn’t failed yet. I think it’s because I applied a very thin smear of silicone around the outside. These parts are exceedingly fragile and if allowed to dry out because the car has been sitting, they seem to want to spin. This tears up the corners of the parts. I think gluing it helped prevent that. Even still, I just can’t rationalize using them again.
Hi Erica,
Going back to this front seal discussion, I think I’ve been trying to do it backwards. The seal goes in the front cover, then the oil sump goes on, and finally the metal sleeve slides in?
And on a totally different topic, I am installing the interior trim on my '64 OTS. Am I right in assuming the upper curved trim piece goes on first, then the door card with the lower chrome piece installed, and finally screw in the clips for the upper chrome piece?
Thanks again for your help,
Al
Correct on the seal. You want it to be in its final dimensions before trying to squeeze the spacer into the fragile inner lip (which faces inward).
I’m not sure what you mean by upper curved trim. The door card trim has been offered in many different shapes and configurations over the years. I don’t know how close mine is to original. It is a squarish channel with a long side on the back that has holes in it. I mounted it to the door with tiny screws, then push the door card up into it and snap it in place with the door clips. This prevents the card from continually needing to be pushed back in after every door shut cycle. Original, maybe, functional, definitely.