Fitting teflon front crank seal, tell me I am wrong

Many years ago installed teflon front seal kit. Now that things are apart want to renew the seal. I thought I recall years ago sliding plastic sleeve on to crank and then sliding seal off of plastic onto crank. This does not work because of the flare of plastic. Is my recollection wrong, and do you just remove plastic sleeve and slide this thing in?
Glenn

Correct. And if you look at the seal, if you try and put it on like that it goes on backwards.

Ask me how I know this…

Dick Maury has written an article on this: http://www.georgiajag.com/Documents/Crank%20Seal/CrankSeal.html

I’m pretty sure the included instructions say to press the plastic collar out using the crank as you push the seal on. So the plastic bit is essentially a dummy crank. The problem, as Andrew mentions is that if you do this, the seal will actually be backwards. I have two NOS parts sitting on the shelf and a couple months ago I had a look at them. The plastic appeared to be pressed in from the wrong side for those instructions. The inner lip of the seal must face inward.

It makes no sense anyway unless you’re installing it on a bare crank with the spacer already installed. If you’re trying to clear the timing cover then it has to go on without the steel spacer and be tipped into place. Then after installing the sump, the collar is pressed in.

FWIW, after having gone through about 4 of these in 20 years I’m abandoning them and going back to the basic one. Since it’s apart a slinger will be reinstalled on the crank. I had reasonably better luck with the very last one I installed. It hadn’t failed yet. I think it’s because I applied a very thin smear of silicone around the outside. These parts are exceedingly fragile and if allowed to dry out because the car has been sitting, they seem to want to spin. This tears up the corners of the parts. I think gluing it helped prevent that. Even still, I just can’t rationalize using them again.