Flasher - directional-hazard 1968 xke 2+2

the directional lights go on external but do not flash. Which flasher and where does it go

The hazard switch does not flash. Which flasher and where does it go

Drop the center console and there in the middle is a rectangle flasher. Is this the one

Terry’s parts say the flasher unit is circular not rectangle.

The horn is mounted with the directional


Welcome to the forum.

The hazard flasher in your car is the rectangular one behind the drop panel, it was originally a Signal Stat 180. however it can be replaced with a round equivalent.

The turn signal flasher is located above your left knee ( assuming a left hand drive car). remove the cardboard curved panel under the dash.
It was originally a Lucas FL5.

now then… IF you are wishing to install LED turn signals you need to search for a long thread on LED FLASHERS . LED Flasher comparison

AND, I would check the hazard switch for bad contacts inside the switch. Thats a whole 'nother can of worms, but odds are its not the flasher thats your problem.

Bob F

Thanks, so much.
You were right on the button.
Unfortunately I burned a fuse when I held the direction down to see if the circuit was complete. How can I be sure the directional will flash with the new flasher. My mechanic replaced the hazard switch on the dash to repair the directional. It soon stopped working. I took a peak and found a disconnected green wire. I re-attached the wire to the back of the hazard switch. It would not flash, but it was ok manually. I held the lever down and that is when I burned the fuse (32 amp not 35) How many prongs are there on the back of the hazard switch?


These were used on many cars and there seems to be quite a few in the NOS supply chain:


Here’s one for under 7 bucks shipped…


does your car have the rocker switches or toggles?

Bob F

The Green wire is the fused 12V supply. If you blew a fuse shortly after connecting the green wire to the switch I would be investigating (a) whether you connected it to the correct terminal on the switch, and (b) whether the recently replaced hazard switch was correctly wired. The terminals on the switches that are available from the usual suppliers today are sometimes not labelled in the same way as the originals. That is, for example, the terminal labelled “1” may not be equivalent to the one labelled “1” on the Jaguar wiring diagram. To be sure you are connecting the new switch correctly, you really need to test the switch first in isolation and determine which terminals are connected with the switch in each position. Then, go back to the wiring diagram and try to determine which terminal is which. One other point to note is that the fuses used in the E-Type (and other British cars of the era) do not use the same rating system as modern US fuses. Be wary about replacing any fuses with modern ones without checking out the may threads in the archives about converting one rating system to the other. This is how fires start… Good luck!


Sorry I did not make myself clear

After I replaced the fuse, I re-attached the green wire to the back of the rocker.
The fuse did not blow when I used the directional manually, i.e., holding the stick down and releasing immediately. I held it down longer and the fuse blew. The hazards never worked
I bought the rectangular flasher and I will replace the fuse.

My next project will be the windshield was her. The container is there but the motor is likely shot. I believe3 I need the top of the bottle

Thanks again


FYI - If you need a flasher for the turn signal this one works and is pretty cheap:

I would still look things over, holding the signal arm down, or on, even for an extended period should not cause a fuse to blow.

The green wire you likely replaced is the 12 volt to the turn signals. The hazard switch interrupts that source when you turn it on and then completes the circuit for the hazard flasher which gets its 12 source from a different fuse.

maybe these will help to double check things

edit: my Green/white and Green/red are reversed from the diagram. but that doesnt impact operation if all is well. the G/R is left side and the G/W is right side lights. but if the hazard switch is working correctly it powers them both from pin 5


Thanks again. Great picture. Isw there on for the whole panel? I have 2 more questions

  1. I have a long yellow wire, behind the dash with a rubber end. Any ideas where that is supposed to go, and;

  2. In the past I had trouble with the cooling fan. One mechanic said the fan only goes on when necessary. Most recently another mechanic has it on all of the time. Whose right?


Personally not familiar with a solid yellow wire. there could be a yellow/green wire or is it possible the one you mention is really a yellowed white cloth wire?

cooling fans were designed to come on when the “otter” switch on the radiator closes or creates a ground. some people wire in over-ride switches to turn them on at will, some mechanics have wired them to run all the time, which does nothing but wear out your fan motors really.

try searching the archives for otter switch or cooling fans

Nice diagram. Is it for any particular series?

I am not sure where I grabbed that from. probably here!. It looks right for my S2, but I can’t speak with authority if its right for any particular year or not.

Bob F

Thanks Bob. Looks like a keeper to print and add to my personal Bentley manual appendix. The only thing I’d add for a Series II is my car has a 12 v clock so a wire comes to it from one of the fuses.

its a good reference, but I would still double check things against the schematic as in that diagram it doesnt show a wire going to the top left terminal of the hazard switch, and then shows a green wire “loose”. I am sure that belongs on the top left lug.

I swapped my battery clock for the one you mention, that came along in late 69 , sep/oct time frame.
I picked up 12 volts off the interior light switch.

I am back still having trouble with the directional signal and the horn.

keep blowing the new directional flasher. Mechanic says it is drawing to much current

Everyone thinks the horn button on the steering wheel works and not the directional signal. I told them.

The diagrams and advise right on


An old saying goes ‘Mechanical problems take minutes to diagnose and hours to fix… electrical problems take hours to diagnose and minutes to fix’.

In other words - most of the time is in the diagnosis so if you can manage to do that yourself it will be done much more thoroughly and much cheaper than having a mechanic futz with it.

One thing you can do is use an old headlamp in place of the fuse that blows. I keep an old headlamp with a pair of wires and alligator clips for just this purpose. Connected to the line & load of the fuse location it provides a load if there is a short. In normal operation the lamp will be unlit. Excessive draw the lamp will glow. Dead short the lamp with shine brightly.

Now that you have stopped consuming fuses you can start to parse the problem. Several ways to do this - one would be to remove all 4 flasher bulbs and see what happens. If nothing, then replace them one at a time. If something then either test various parts of the circuit or disconnect the various parts - you will be trying to isolate the problem.

There is no one way to solve this but a methodical approach with notes on what you have checked (though it seems slow) is the fastest route to the answer.

Guesses on here and throwing parts at the problem are more exciting but can also be frustrating and non-productive.


I will pass it on.

It’s a new problem. Originally we thought it was the hazard switch were we believe the wires go. There seems there are 2. A five prong and a 6 prong. The good news is that the air conditioner works. At least for now

Some switches, especially replacement switches, may have unused terminals. Your hazard switch should only have 5 connections.

What keeps me sane as I work thru these things is a note book I made with a page for each switch, gauge and device. Like this (click 2x to enlarge):

1 Like

My '68 2+2 has original wiring and switch…the only difference in my wiring and what Geo has shown is that the GW and GR wires are reversed, likely it makes no difference as these switches use the “dumbell” type mobile connector and those two terminals probably just become "common when activated. Have to remove wires and check continuity to be certain.