Follow on rear caliper question

I’m confused. Why would this even be expected?

Wet is a completely different situation than dry and calls for a closer to 50/50 brake balance than dry. So if it’s set up correctly for wet, it’s not right for dry.

Related, but not exactly related…
First of all Erica, I recall those on this forum saying just what you said here and I’m thinking you’re correct. Also when at “Superbike School” the instructors checked your rear brake after a track session to make sure you DIDN’T use the rear brake. This was a long time ago and with anti-lock, tire advancements, etc. maybe this is not the current advice. I don’t to this day use the rear brake unless I’m on loose surface. This is also now redundant because the BMW K1300S decides for you on which pistons to apply. This front to rear balance is important, but due to bikes having a somewhat crude system, I feel that as long as the balance is biased to being SAFE, the detail of the percentage isn’t fantastically critical. I’ve locked up the front on our old Yamaha and real bad things happen. Locked up the brakes with anti-lock on the BMW with the wife on the back and no drama. Who knows what the computer decided to do - I sure wasn’t thinking “well, let’s see… 62% here, 38% there…”.

That’s because the optimum brake proportioning on a superbike is 100/0.

I did that, exactly once, on my Yamaha 650: nothing too bad happened, except the ruined pair of undershorts.

NEVER made that mistake again.

mmmmmMaybe.

A lot of performance riders use rear clip ons so they can hunker down and hug the tank. Some modify their rear brake pedal so they can reach it in that position but I think many don’t. Modern bikes have anti lock brakes so a front lock up shouldn’t happen unless they’ve turned off the function. That’s always a big if because people sometimes think they know better than the designers.

I never road raced a bike, but spent many a fruitful and fun hour canyon-carving in the Rockies. My earlier dirt experience–which Dad insisted on, before I ever rode street–held me in good stead, with how to use F/R brakes, and in what situation.

I’d like to try a modern bike, with the computer assisted braking.

They’re jam packed with gadgetry nowadays. TLDR the manual at ones own risk. An acquaintance of mine bought the second fastest production bike last year and proceeded to drop it within a week on a wet road. She later said she probably should have had the traction control engaged but didn’t want to have to pull over and stop to do it. I went online and read the docs and sure enough, you don’t gave to stop, you just have to release the throttle and push a button…d’oh!

1 Like

“…Modern bikes have anti lock brakes so a front lock up shouldn’t happen unless they’ve turned off the function. That’s always a big if because people sometimes think they know better than the designers…”

Turn off the ABS when going off-road…

Our K1300s had traction control optional - ours doesn’t have it. As I understand it the system more or less just keeps you from doing wheelies. I don’t think it makes slippery roads safe to go nuts on. Anti lock works well. It does have “linked” brakes, I believe pioneered by Honda years ago. I didn’t like the idea, but on dirty roads with a passenger or luggage I think it’s OK.
As far as that 100%/ 0%, I don’t think so. I seldom use the rear with my actual foot, but the designers think it should be activated somewhat at all times - if either wheel locks the computer cycles it.

1 Like