Front oil seal. WTH?

Hello all,

Just received this from one of the usual suppliers. Not sure if there is anything special to do to fit properly.

Is there a purpose to the yellow tube or do I just toss it out?

There is also it seems a white plastic ring of a diameter slightly larger than the seal lip. Does it have to come out?

No instructions provided.

Has anyone used this before?

Thank you

Read the threads regarding Teflon seals or google it before you do anything. There is a specific way to mount and ‘run in’ these seals. Absolutely NO oil on the shaft or seal, it has to run dry as the teflon has to transfer onto the shaft.

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@Dick_Maury has the best, not-to-be-ignored installation metod.

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Thank you folks.

I see the mention of an article by Dick Maury, but can’t find said article. Any pointers?

Out of impatient curiosity, I took off the yellow tube and touched the lip of the seal… Have I ruined it? :frowning: Do I need special tools to fit the develish thing?

Thank you.

I found this, that does not say much.

http://www.georgiajag.com/Documents/Crank%20Seal/CrankSeal.html

Where have the archives gone?? :frowning:

For reference:
" These are: EAC-8101 is O-ring, C-40147 Seal race and EAC-8815
Teflon seal as mentioned. These three make up the famous JLM-1171
kit".

And there is this, 4th picture down.

http://www.georgiajag.com/Documents/Bubba.html

Lots of useful information in this web site.

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Thank you for this.

Still looking for the actual procedure to install this thing… Special tool?

I will call the supplier on Monday and ask for instructions. But the more I learn about this the more I am tempted to either abandon and use the normal one that is in the Payen gasket kit or find the complete kit with sleeve and O-ring…

@Dick_Maury will chime in: patience, Grasshopper.

:grimacing:

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There are a lot of online instructions and information with teflon front and rear seals if you do a simple google search. They are the gold standard now. Basically use a new spacer or polish yours smooth, really smooth as in mirror finish. Remove slinger. Install seal without spacer. Put a bit of sealer around the sides of the seal where the gasket goes. Torque down oil pan and then push in your polished spacer. New style or old style. There is a clearanced groove cut to clear the woodruff key so pay attention if you need to line it up. Do not use lubricant on seal or spacer. Wait overnight for seal to “settle” into place before adding oil or starting engine. Best to do this anyway to let the pan gasket sealer set up. Make sure you put the seal in the proper direction. This proceedure is not much different than installing a rubber seal except the lubricant.

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Thank you for this. The engine is from a 1975 XJ6 so I believe there is no “slinger”.

The videos I have seen online dont really give the full story for the XK engine and see to point to a process different from what you say here…

The critical detail here, seems to be that the seal has to be fitted in the timing cover + sump first, then the spacer pushed in, right? This is quite different from what I see on the YouTube videos for other engines.

What is still not fully clear to me is what to do with the yellow tube inside of the seal… Remove before pressing the spacer in or use it as a guide over the spacer? If the latter, then the spacer cannot be pressed in after the seal is in place.

Thank you.

You remove it, then fit the seal collar.

Ah, see this is VERY different from what it shows in the videos on YouTube.

Watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTd45ZLYPm0

Check from 2:55 …

http://www.georgiajag.com/Documents/Crank%20Seal/CrankSeal.html

Think the yellow spacer is purely to retain the shape after manufacture,prour to fitting

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Prior I meant to type!

So here is what I understand from this treasure hunt :slight_smile:

1- Remove the spacer/sleeve from the crankshaft
2- Polish the hell out of it so it is mirror shiny, remove all trace of grease or oil. If there is any sign of wear, just replace it with a new one.
3- Replace the O-ring inside where it mates with the crankshaft
4- Once the timing cover is in place, insert the PTFE seal over the crankshaft and inside the timing cover groove. No need for sealant on the outside of the seal, it is made to squash a bit and provide adequate sealing.
5- Fit the oil pan. Again no need for sealant in the groove where the seal sits, but of course use sealant for the paper gasket that goes around the sump.
6- Remove the protective yellow tube from inside the seal.
7- Position the spacer in the way that it can slide over the woodruff key on the crankshaft and then slide, push, tap it in straight inside the seal. Do not use any lubricant on the outer surface of the spacer as this would negate the value of the PTFE trick.
8- Once all is in place, turn the engine over by hand, two full rotations. The purpose of this is to transfer and spread the PTFE coating from the seal over to the surface of the spacer.
9- Leave engine at least 24 hours as is to allow PTFE coating to set.

Did I get it right? :slight_smile:

Sounds about correct from what I can remember reading.

If any sign of wear on the distance piece face I’d renew it.

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You did not seem to read about putting sealant where the pan gasket goes around the seal. Without this, it will leak and you will think it is a seal problem. I actually put a sealant on the whole gasket. Other than that, you should be good to go. The yellow piece is a protector and can be used as a guide to slide the seal over the spacer. Just not in this application.

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This is getting ever more confusing…

Your article reads:

“The outside material is a soft rubber like material designed to be installed without the use of sealants.”

How does this gel with:

“You did not seem to read about putting sealant where the pan gasket goes around the seal. Without this, it will leak and you will think it is a seal problem.”