Front oil seal. WTH?

Thank you for this. The engine is from a 1975 XJ6 so I believe there is no “slinger”.

The videos I have seen online dont really give the full story for the XK engine and see to point to a process different from what you say here…

The critical detail here, seems to be that the seal has to be fitted in the timing cover + sump first, then the spacer pushed in, right? This is quite different from what I see on the YouTube videos for other engines.

What is still not fully clear to me is what to do with the yellow tube inside of the seal… Remove before pressing the spacer in or use it as a guide over the spacer? If the latter, then the spacer cannot be pressed in after the seal is in place.

Thank you.

You remove it, then fit the seal collar.

Ah, see this is VERY different from what it shows in the videos on YouTube.

Watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTd45ZLYPm0

Check from 2:55 …

http://www.georgiajag.com/Documents/Crank%20Seal/CrankSeal.html

Think the yellow spacer is purely to retain the shape after manufacture,prour to fitting

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Prior I meant to type!

So here is what I understand from this treasure hunt :slight_smile:

1- Remove the spacer/sleeve from the crankshaft
2- Polish the hell out of it so it is mirror shiny, remove all trace of grease or oil. If there is any sign of wear, just replace it with a new one.
3- Replace the O-ring inside where it mates with the crankshaft
4- Once the timing cover is in place, insert the PTFE seal over the crankshaft and inside the timing cover groove. No need for sealant on the outside of the seal, it is made to squash a bit and provide adequate sealing.
5- Fit the oil pan. Again no need for sealant in the groove where the seal sits, but of course use sealant for the paper gasket that goes around the sump.
6- Remove the protective yellow tube from inside the seal.
7- Position the spacer in the way that it can slide over the woodruff key on the crankshaft and then slide, push, tap it in straight inside the seal. Do not use any lubricant on the outer surface of the spacer as this would negate the value of the PTFE trick.
8- Once all is in place, turn the engine over by hand, two full rotations. The purpose of this is to transfer and spread the PTFE coating from the seal over to the surface of the spacer.
9- Leave engine at least 24 hours as is to allow PTFE coating to set.

Did I get it right? :slight_smile:

Sounds about correct from what I can remember reading.

If any sign of wear on the distance piece face I’d renew it.

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You did not seem to read about putting sealant where the pan gasket goes around the seal. Without this, it will leak and you will think it is a seal problem. I actually put a sealant on the whole gasket. Other than that, you should be good to go. The yellow piece is a protector and can be used as a guide to slide the seal over the spacer. Just not in this application.

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This is getting ever more confusing…

Your article reads:

“The outside material is a soft rubber like material designed to be installed without the use of sealants.”

How does this gel with:

“You did not seem to read about putting sealant where the pan gasket goes around the seal. Without this, it will leak and you will think it is a seal problem.”

There is a large difference between putting sealant around the perimeter of the seal and putting it where the timing cover and oil pan meet. The gaskets are not precision cut so that there is not a leak where they meet the seal.

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I am sorry Dick, may be it is because English is not my native language but I don’t follow the meaning of the comment. I apologize.

Do you recommend putting sealant around the outside of the seal where it meets the grooves in the timing cover and the oil sump or not?

Is your comment only about using sealant on the surfaces of the sump gasket (well of course!)?

Thank you.

Do not put sealant in the groove the seal sits in. The seal housing is soft rubber and seals itself. Put sealer only where the paper oil pan gasket goes around and next to the seal. The gasket is cut out to go around the seal but is not a very tight fit. Sealant is needed to make sure there are no gaps between the gasket and the seal.

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Thanks for the precision. All good now. Cheers.

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Oil seal now in place. Awaiting the spacer to be pushed in. Fingers crossed…

Spacer polished with 400, 600, 1000, 1500 grit on the lathe. Looking good.

I read somewhere not to oil it and that it has to be completely clean so to allow transfer of seal material onto the spacer.
Hope that’s correct.

Correct Graham, there are a few vids on YouTube to that effect.

Just make sure you remove the protective collar . It does not work well if you leave it in place.

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