My 1963 E Type front right side is out of spec for camber. I have new shims, C15153 (.030) and others. Can anyone give me educated guess for how much shim it should take to bring it back from the -4 reflected in the attached to the correct spec? What effect will camber adjustment make to Toe if any?
Even reaching -4 is VERY surprising. In every case I know of people who WANTED more negative camber could not achieve more than about -1 without going to offset control arm mounts. Are you sure your measurement is correct?
Hey Ray. I’m working to the print out from Firestone that was provided to me after the alignment check. The -4 is their number based on the machine they use. I should add the Firestone -4 is consistent with an older alignment check I had in Wichita in 2016. see attached. Also, I have noticed a bit of inside wear on that right front but I have less than 10 K miles on the tires.
OK, that shows -0.4, not -4. Very different.
actually -0.4 deg on both printouts
its a simple trigonometry. lets say you want 0.0 deg:
the angle is 0.4 deg
the adjacent side is 12 inches (approx distance between the ball joints (what’s the exact #?))
Tangent of 0.4 deg is 0.007
times 12 is 0.084 inches of shims
Added to both UCA mounts it will not change caster but will affect toe. but thats easy to adjust on the rack.
Ray, Sorry for the mistake. I understand the difference but I already have cataract surgery scheduled. I can’t SEE. 
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Ah! You’ll LOVE being able to see again after the surgery! Best thing I ever did, and for the first time in almost 50 years, I can drive without glasses again!
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Thanks for the reply. Do I understand you to say adding shims to the UCA will not help with my -.4 camber? Where and how do I adjust to get that -.04 back into spec?
The Bentley manual gives a degree value for the addition or subtraction of camber shims. I think it’s about 1/4 of a degree for each shim.
I’d look it up for you but we’ve moved and I’m waiting on bookcases to be delivered so right now my books are stacked all over the library; I’ve no idea where anything is.
I’ll just add - I think many (possibly most) prefer more negative camber than the original specs call for.
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I prefer the most negative camber you can get, just make sure both sides are equal. I did it by removing all shims and then measuring. I added shims to the more negative to make them equal.
Sorry Harold I wasn’t clear. Adding shims for your UCA will fix your camber not your caster. Both casters are within spec but the cross caster (the difference between the two) is a little high. I don’t think it’s enough to worry about. Cross caster is really hard to feel in the car when it’s low to begin with.
Yes race cars like negative camber to increase grip. I prefer to set camber close to zero as I can for a refined on center feel.
I think if you put two of the 0.030 inch shims at each pivot on the right side you will be within spec and really close to the left side. Two shims each should add 0.3° of camber.
Remember even if it’s jacked up there’s load in your suspension so just loosen the bolts enough to slip the shims in without undoing anything else.
After the camber is dialed in then you set the toe.
Thank U John. I have a copy of the Bentley manual. I’ll look it up.
Bentley’s says a 1/16 inch shims will add 1/4 deg.
Using trig, 0.0625 inch yields 0.2976 degrees.
Close enough for engineering.
Trig was faster on my TI-30.
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Agree, something like 0.25-0.4 degrees of negative camber seems very reasonable with modern, radial tires.
I would argue that most people would prefer the way the car drives, as opposed to how it would drive when aligned to the original spec.
With modern tires, it’s impossible, given the design of the E Type upper A arm, to get too much negative camber.
Modify things, go extreme. 
Yes, I know it’s not an E-Type.
Certainly my tested observation. Unfortunately I think E’s that won’t go at least a tad bit negative are welded together wrong or have been wrecked. They should make all typical “average” specs without drama. At 1/4 degree negative they will drive well. Having the REAR end not in there straight may cause odd issues blamed on the front end also.
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