Maybe everyone is missing my question, but I think my front springs are OK but just wanted to make sure before I replace
Them is there some sort of time frame or test that can confirm
If they’re good go ?
Odds are the springs are fine, springs usually last a long time. I would try to take a good look and give them a tap to make sure you get a metal sound, not a rusty clunk. My old ones were quite rusted on the outside, most of the paint was gone, but still solid.
Any sagging would also show a bad spring, but if you have decent height up front, you’re probably OK.
I’ve replaced springs on my cars only for lowering purposes, or if I have to remove them for something, I figure I may as well replace them. I have yet to replace a spring because it needed replacing.
on my coupe, the upper part of the front springs is fine, but the paint is gone on 2 lowest “turns” , inside and next to the pan : I reckon standing water in the pan is the reason
big flakes , 1 or 2 inches, leaving the spring in poor look, but seeming still solid
I plan to get them out to get them replaced or treated : sand blasting then paint or epoxied
measuring the height of each wheel arch, or more accurately between two areas on each side of the suspension (which may be specified in FSM) is the accepted way of judging spring condition
In addition, replacement springs are often not the same height as the originals, or have thicker turns, so I would only consider replacing them if they are measurably sagged, or visibly rusted
There is a drainage hole in the pan, sometimes the springs are fitted in a way that covers the holes, but often they just get blocked by road dirt.
It’s worth checking and cleaning them out if accessible.
Here is the home-made set I used (3 times on a XJ, assembly off the car: no deterioration).
The steel spacers and coupling nuts make the procedure much easier.
The closed ratchet makes it all a lot faster.
The flat steel bar was to make spacers to lower the suspension.
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That sort of is the root of the question I’ve got my new rear
Springs sitting in the boot of the car, and was thinking of
Doing the front whilst I was at it. It all started as I was replacing
Dampers all around. But the last thing I want to see is a
XJ-S that looks like a gazelle on stilts if the new springs
Tend to sit higher. I was really only changing them due to
The fact the car is 34 years old, thinking they may or might
Be soft cause of age. Otherwise they don’t look worse for
Wear , rusty , sagging or anything. More of a get some of
This heavy lifting undercarriage work done whilst I’m still
Willing, able and motivated to. Like the car I’m not getting
Any younger either.
I try not to replace any springs unless measurably sagged or visibly damaged,
its not a very fun job on most vehicles, and there is no assurance the replacements will be the right size, spec, or quality as OEM
I guess thats why they call it spring steel
I have had to replace springs in vehicles before, and place lift springs in 4wd,
but never an OEM coil spring in my Jags, even when rebuilding IFS and IRS up to 50yrs old
I have heard of a people doing it, but very rarely cause the spring was sagged
That is why you measure the heights carefully
oh…and dont throw the old ones out straight away…just in case the new ones are some hopeless POS
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I agree, if your springs aren’t sagging and they look decent, then just leave them. How many miles on car? If low mileage, you’ll probably be fine. It’s not really age that ruins springs (unless they rust), it’s lots and lots of miles on them having to bounce around.
There isn’t any particular time frame to go by per se. The test is the measurement of the cars ride height, which would indicate any sagging issues. Be aware, though, that just about any deviation from the factory setup could throw a monkey wrench into the mix. After a complete renewal of my front & rear suspension, it took an awful lot of wrestling with the setup to bring everything back in line with the factory setup. It’s been my experience that talking about taking accurate ride height measurements are a lot easier to talk about then they are to make.
Can the shims cover the holes? Might it be better to put the shims on the top end of the spring?
Do you mean spacers? They are at top.
My pan was covered in mud clogging drain holes. Springs were rusty, but only surface rust.
Those pans are a black hole for dropped tools and bits!!!
It was pointed out to me that the workshop manual specifies that shims can go top and/or bottom. It specifies limits on how many can be used in each position. I think it was a dumb design decision to make a drain hole, then cover it with spacers.
When I replaced my front springs, I drilled an extra drain hole in each pan that could not be blocked by the spring. If my car ever sees rain, it should work out pretty well.
My ‘88 had them top and bottom from the factory; I don’t recall the shims blocking the holes, they were the same diameter or slightly smaller.
When I did mine I drilled the spacers and lined them up with the pan holes.
Frankie
thanks for the suggestions : I’ll double check when I get to tackle the front end refresh
rust on the springs is only superficial, no risk they could break for a while
Owning a Jaguar means Never having nothing to do.
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Mark, it also means never having spare cash laying around with nothing to commit it to
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