The fact that the fasteners inside this little marvel of engineering are tough to get to and are usually jammed tight as concrete isn’t news here, I’m sure.
In the OTS, access to the underside of this box is limited by the side curtain box. You cannot get there from here.
I have a new box to install and about the only thing I can come up with is to cut out part of the inner fender (and replace it of course). Talk me out of it.
My box was eaten away mostly along the recess for the fuel lid. If my box were complete, i.e. not eaten away along the top, like this one, I’d have POR 15d it and moved on.
As it turns out more pressing matters have derailed this particular fix.
It must be different to my 140 ? I was able to remove the weld around the flange and drop it into the boot (trunk )
I found it was quite easy to get at once I’d taken the tonneau panel off…
But I’d say Jim is right if you don’t want to go to that much trouble.
I’m pleased to say that my hourly rate went up quite a bit when I saw the price of these on the Moss site.
I assume there weren’t too many welds holding that box in place!!!
The edge is welded at the opening, but only on 3 sides. I’m guessing the hinge side didn’t get welded 'cause the lid was in the way.
This is one of those things that rattles around in your head until you have to get around to it.
I’m considering making a flexible floor and laying it in to cover the rust/POR. Sealed and with a drain… maybe. The lock latch is stuck and there is zero chance of getting it out.
There are spot welds that you can drill around the opening flange and the box will drop into the boot area. I did this on my '51 to bead blast and patch the filler box as well. Also a good time to make sure the screw holes are tapped and clean to accept the new latch and hinge hardware.
Jim
No Jim, it will not just drop into the boot. It’s too large to fit past the curtain storage box and the inner fender on the OTS model. To remove and replace it The inner fender will have to be cut out of the way and replaced if I go that route.
I’m thinking about dropping the box and welding in a new floor and fill pipe nipple/vent/drain and refreshing the hinge and latch attachments and re-installing the original.
The 120 OTS I am working on (671129) must be different than others then because that is what I did. It fit into the boot area and I repaired it then welded it back it with no problems. I guess not knowing it wouldn’t fit worked in my favor.
I think I may have a way to extract the filler box. I happened to glance from the cockpit into the trunk and there it is.
You can see why I think it won’t drop into the boot, but it might make it’s way above the inner fender and out through the rear bulkhead.
It really does need a new floor and the fasteners replaced and service to the latch and hinge. Worth the trouble…
I am telling you it WILL come out and go back in. I don’t see how my car was any different than any other OTS’s. This is coming from actually doing it, not speculating.
It’s cut loose, no amount of turning gets it to drop into the boot.
I did pull it forward through the bulkhead though.
New one is made and test fitted. I won’t install it until I get a lock/latch for test fitting and painting inside the box with body color.
For now, it’s off the list.
How did you fab up the unit?
When I moved from NJ I lost the use of a buddy’s metal shop. I don’t have room for all the toys but one of the best buys in recent years was this 30" shear/brake from Eastwood. It’s on a base made from 2x4’s and filled with old iron for ballast.
New box, a Father’s day project.
When I remade mine I made the box 10mm narrower to help to get it in and out . Refitting I used panel adhesive on the flages with seveal weld tacks
