I’m doing a replacement of the fuel filler neck gaiter and o-ring without having to remove a ton of stuff. Had the typical fuel smell in the truck that I isolated to the fuel neck. You can see a previous mechanic tried to cover it up with some sort of permatex like stuff.
I’ve got things apart, but now am thinking about the best way to get the new gaiter back in place.
Oh, and I’m cutting a new gasket from a nitrile sheet to replace the old, slightly mangled and compressed gasket.
Looking for any tips and tricks that others may have discovered, both in getting the new gaiter in place and cutting a new gasket. Thanks!
I just did this and had to buy s new Gator also. Put a very very small amount of grease on the tank neck, install the hose clamp, and slide the gator down as far as possible, even compressing it, then the top hose clamp. Put the vent hose on with both hose clamps loose, pointing it up but don’t tighten.
Slide the tank in place. Put a small amount of grease around the bottom edge of the cap filler neck and the vent hose nipple. This will help slide it into the Gator and vent hose. Slide the vent hose onto the vent nipple, tighten up the clamps.
Slide the gator up the tank neck and onto the cap/filler neck. Slide the clamps onto place.
Clamp down the clamps.
One thing to spend time thinking about is how to position all his clamps so you can get a tool on it the easiest to tighten it.
I formed a rubber gasket for the filler neck to the body by just tracing and cutting a new one out of rubber gasket material.
The clamps can easily be off place on the hose…if they don’t tighten on the flat areas of both necks and are over the tapered areas they will not seal… easily overlooked
A small socket or wrench is really needed to get that lower clamp tight. Screwdriver wasn’t enough.
Also, the lower clamp easily rotated at an angle as I tightened it, like scrimbo mentions, it will not seal. I had to push down hard with a large screwdriver on the clamp edge as I tightened it until it was ‘biting’ into the rubber enough not to rotate anymore. A bit tricky with two arms but do-able. Get that clamp tight. The fuel neck is steel, and the gator is hard rubber, so no worries.
I found it easist to lube up the gaiter, then inserted the gaiter on the fuel cap part first a couple of times, then from the back slide the bigger side onto the fuel neck into the tank and finally finishing with the fuel cap part.
Thanks. I have a tub of 3M stuff that is very useful. Not sure I’m overthinking this, but silicone and oxygen sensors don’t play well. Any chance that some silicone can join the fuel stream and eventually foul up the sensors?
It’s probably highly unlikely…if not impossible? Wondering if some good old fashioned Vaseline wouldn’t work just as well, considering the hoses are fuel rated?
I like that connection, much more flexible than the original. My problem, I replaced my tank and I guess was about 1/2" off. The original connector is so stiff, that if the alignment is not perfect, it is next to impossible to angle the connector enough to get the clamps on right. I managed, but after a lot of tries. And it’s too much work to realign tank.
Where did you find this? I may buy one and replace one day when I have nothing to work on.
Problem is for us coupe owners, apparently our gaiters are N.L.A. As to convertibles, some vendor on Ebay named “JerrysJaguars” is selling his own custom-built version on there, which is thicker and “better” than the O.E.M. version, for only $28.00.
Just a thought about the grease on that gaiter… how about plumbers valve grease ?.. That’s compatible with rubber… I doubt if on this application it would get into fuel system.
Thanks, Equip, will keep that in mind. My priority (a gift to me and Superblue for my 60th b.d., btw ) right now is (still) trying to find a '94 radio that works and that the seller has the security code for. Seems like a few of our members that sell spare parts don’t have any, except one who does but admittedly is not fully operational and would require some major work, apparently.
So I dug into my fuel tank and found that I someone was definitely there before me. The small hoses were definitely not OEM. The gaiter matched the alleged thicker one that I bought from eBay, so I can’t offer a comparison between the two.
Apparently I have a fuel tank from a v12 6.0 engine! The flange at the top of my tank is metal and only has one small hose connection tied to it, I used a 3/8” Gates Barricade hose section, only 1-1/2” piece is needed. I think it’s fine at the flange connection, but too large for the pipe I’m connecting. I’m gonna go back in there and try a 5/16” hose next weekend, after I burn through the tank of fuel.
For those keeping track, you only need a 3” piece to connect the metal vent pipe to the fuel filler assembly, again, perhaps the 3/8” may have been too big, but hose clamps probably did the trick there,
There are no other rubber hoses needed for my fuel tank, which definitely disagrees with what JDHT shows. Even if I were to replace the metal flange (NNA5954AA) with the seemingly correct plastic flange (NNA5955AA), I’d have too many hose connections and not enough pipes to connect them too! They also no longer make a flange gasket for the plastic flange….
Lastly, I did buy a 3mm piece of Viton and plan on exchanging out that fuel sender gasket. The sniffer is still telling me it’s leaking fumes.
As to convertibles, some vendor on Ebay named “JerrysJaguars” is selling his own custom-built version on there, which is thicker and “better” than the O.E.M. version, for only $28.00. 
My priority (a gift to me and Superblue for my 60th b.d., btw 
) right now is (still) trying to find a '94 radio that works and that the seller has the security code for. Seems like a few of our members that sell spare parts don’t have any, except one who does but admittedly is not fully operational and would require some major work, apparently. 