Fuel injection system

Harry,

maybe I’m confusing things, but the link in Robin’s post (14) takes me to page 1H 02L depicting the front suspension and you confirmed this in post 15. Yet, Mark refers in post 20 to the radius arm which is a structural part of the rear suspension.

If the latter is correct and your radius arm has really rusted out of the floor pan you might wish to think over whether to continue your way with this particular car. The part of the body where the rear IRS is mounted is critical for safety and roadworthiness and no easy candidate for repair.

Good luck anyway

Jochen

75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)

1 Like

Thanks but I’m in Scotland mate but cheers for the names for things needed them

It’s the radius arm cup I’m a certified welder on 1/4 inch plate so I’m certificated for all chassis and fram welding the biggest concern I have is getting the alignment for the back end

Jocken, thats just the first page, as I noted you have to scroll across to page 13.

sngbarratt and david manners are both in the UK. You’re concern about getting stuff back in the right is legit. If I were you, I’d pick up the Service documentation available at OTPubs.com. In amongst the overwhelming amount of documentation. there are the key measurements to straighten a bent Jag. When I get a chance I’ll see if I can find it.

cheers mate!
Mark

Cheers mate it seems to have been water damaged on the back end

This is common. the seal around the back window shrinks, and the water runs down the inside of the C pillar and rots things out. a tell tale sign is rust above the wheel arch. I know, I have one of these. ugh… or the seal around the boot rots, crap gets stuck in the channel around the seal and then the water runs over into the boot. Or if you’re car has a sun roof, the drains plug up. On all 4 corners there are rubber tubes to drain the sunroof. Two up front drain down the A pillar, and the two in the back drain down the C pillar. If you open the back door, you’ll find a hole with a rubber grommet. That’s the drain for the sunroof. the front drain as with drip rails down behind the front wheel arch. You’ll notice a gap between the rocker and the front wing. That gap allows water to drain; when it’s not full of crap

Inside the front wheel arch - back side. There is a panel held in place with, I think 4 screws - maybe six. if you take that panel off it give you access to clean the clean the crap out.

Again, for whatever that’s worth. I have a SWB Series II, Series I, and two Series III’s. These are all project cars. so I’m right there with you. :slight_smile:
Oh, and converting to fuel injection. unless you have a bunch of time and money; I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s a huge undertaking. The FI on a Jag is old school, As mentioned above.

  • The unused fuel is pumped back into the tank That means you’ll have to get all of the piping or make your own. I won’t get into the emissions side of life - charcoal canister
  • Because fuel gets pushed back into the tank, you’ll have to aquire two Series III fuel tanks or weld up the proper fittings.
  • new fuel pump and filter to put out the appropriate pressure (36 PSI at the rail)
  • EFI box and associated wiring harness
  • possibly a new fuse panel (this is a stab in the dark).
  • intake plenum, injector rail, fuel rail, and air flow metering bits as well as all of the associated filtering, piping and stuff like that.
  • recurve the Distributor for fuel injection.

Those are the things that I can think of off the top of my head, and frankly, my daily driver is a Series III and maybe there’s 1 or two mpg difference between the Carb vs FI; providing I keep my foot out of it.The only benefit is the series III it’s like a point and shoot camera. Turn the key and the car starts. This isn’t the case with the Series I and Series II. Both cars have chokes, and it’s a bit fiddley to get them started on a cold day.

cheers mate!
Mark

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With no chassis damage, Harry - there should be no rear alignment problem…

I envy your welding competence - you should have no problems…

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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To the injection system is the same as the xj40 system and well I’m luck the rear seal is good, it’s like the car was sat in a river from all the sand the back seats as it got the rear quotes I’ve done them got in place just need to weld when I’m well enough it have ate the sill ends and the door frame skin join and the front skuttle was ate but 27 year of a drip of water eat the a pill at the skuttle. On welding I need to get floor pans, I’ve done the inner sills, rear quarters got the sill end only short a drivers door now and it needs either Kent alloys and the rught steel wheels as I just used a xj40 wheel a half size spare and the steels with winter tyres off my 96 X300. Biggest worry is I need to get the front screen out to.get the scuttle welded in as removing and putting screens back in not something ove done and screens are really dear for these but it’s coming and mine is a lwb one

Thanks Robin,

that’s what I thought, but whenever I click on the link I only see that single page and cannot scroll down.

Best

Jochen

75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)