Elizabeth City, North Carolina. Remove the three screws. Slide knife under the gasket. Remove the metal bulb covering the bimetallic switch. Carefully bend open the brass switch plate for higher temperature. I replaced with a cork gasket…
Pat H
On my car the PO disconnected the wire leading to the unit with the three screws and wired it to a toggle switch under the dashboard enabling the driver to manually control whether the auxiliary starting carburetor is ‘on’ or ‘off.’ As long as your wiring, toggle switch, and solenoid are in working order, problem should be solved. Several weeks ago on a previous thread you will see I endured the inconvenience of both the toggle switch and solenoid going bad after 31 years of owning the car, but, as numbers go, I cannot really complain. Replaced both items, and now all is good.
Pierre, I left the Otter switch function in place and ran another wire from the Otter switch terminal to a switch under the dash that had two functions, One, to ground the wire from the Otter switch and, two, a function to operate a small warning light to indicate when the aux carb was being operated by the switch. In my opinion it is important to have this warning to prevent leaving the aux carb on for longer than necessary. Where are you located?
You make this sound so easy but I suspect that after 45 years the three screws are “welded” with dissimilar metal corrosion to the aluminum housing and would likely break off at the first quarter turn. Not something I want to get involved with. Classic case of “if it aint broke don’t mess with it”
Mine unscrewed no problem. Suggest you try carefully turning and stop with any significant resistance.
Pat H
John, Adelaide South Australia
cheers
Pierre
Well, went to go for a run today & back to square one! : sob:
No click of the AED unit & fuel pouring out the front carby overflow pipe.
Fuse OK checked indicators are working.
Take all apart again on weekend & work through it again.
Pierre
sounds like you might have more than one issue
fuel overflowing is probably not related to ASC
I would inspect the fuel bowl, float and needle & seat for any grit or binding
a lit in-cabin switch to earth is the best way to control the ASC imo.
Finally got the MK 2 starting & running consistently now.
Removed the old Grose gaskets from under the new Viton needle & seats & reset the 7/16" dimension on the float levels which seems to have solved the problem of flooding.
Not really sure what was going on with the ASC unit before apart from the fuse, but now operates as it should. 
Just have a idling issue now once the ASC cuts out at temperature.
Why would the idling change if you only change the needle & seats?
Car is auto.
cheers
Pierre
Just because the auxiliary starting carburetor cuts out does not mean the engine has reached it full operating temperature. It just means the engine is now warm enough to not stall. The owners manual states clearly the thermostatically controlled device is designed to cut out at temperatures above 35 degrees C, even though we know full operating correct temperature is closer to 70 C. I’d imagine the folks at Browns Lane wanted to minimize the amount of time the car would run on a rich mixture so as not to ‘hurt’ the engine crankcase oil more than necessary.